Enchanting Italy

Journey to San Giovanni in Venere Abbey, Abruzzo

2012-02-09T21:53:00.026Z

On the day that we visited Trabocco Punta Torre with Daniele he also drove us to the Punta Aderci Nature Reserve. It is a stunningly beautiful area of great botanical and geological interest and is an ideal spot for birdwatchers, swimmers and sunbathers.

We also stopped in San Vito Chietino and walked along the gravel path past the old train station.

Ahead of us we could see the Trabocco D’Annunzio (also called Trabocco Turchino) and the Eremo D’Annunzio concealed amongst the cliffs and orange trees. The steep cliffs alternate with small sandy coves. The famous poet and writer Gabriele D’Annunzio spent two months of the summer of 1889 here with Barbara Fraternali Leoni. The artist Francesco Paolo Michetti recommended this place to him due to the unspoilt beauty of the landscape. During his time here he was inspired to write ‘Il Trionfo della Morte’ (Death’s Triumph), in which he describes some of the places surrounding the hermitage. He wrote:

“The chain of promontories and crescent-shaped gulfs rendered an image of a succession of offerings, with each inlet holding a treasure.”

On the public sandy Blue Flag beach at Punta Penna we went for a swim. We had packed our swim costumes and towels with us and Daniele also brought along his colourful kite which our daughter Amy had fun flying: she even held on to it when she was in the water. You need to bring your own sun umbrella as there is no natural shade. I prefer beaches like this rather than the ones that have rows and rows of tightly packed sun loungers and parasols.

On the way back towards Pescara he drove us to the Abbey of San Giovanni in Venere in Fossacesia, one of the largest Benedictine monasteries in the region. The first thing we did there was admire the view of the Sangro River Valley in front of the abbey which stretches out over orchards, olive groves and oak and pine woods to the sea. We breathed in the sea air and the scent of the pines. (See video below).

From the other side of the abbey we admired a line of ‘trabocchi’ (old fishing machines). In this picture you can just about make out four of them in a row along the coast. The light was fading at this time in the evening. This area is considered one of the most beautiful of the entire Trabocco coastline.

The abbey sits on a hill dominating the Adriatic coastline. At dusk it is illuminated and is a wondrous sight from all around.

The stone façade is crowned by a series of sculptures. The main portal (Portale della Luna – Moon Portal) is in stone and marble and is surmounted by a vaulted arch which encloses a decorative half moon. Here the images of Jesus, the Blessed Mother and John the Baptist are sculpted.

On the sides of the portal are two pilasters and columns made with different coloured marble. You can see images of the story of the Annunciation and the Visitation as well as scenes of John the Baptist, Daniel in the lion’s den and Gabriel announcing John’s birth to his father. The final scene on the bottom left is of two peacocks drinking from a vase.

The interior is divided into three naves divided by twelve pillars with gothic arches and it has a high roof of wooden beams. Real treasure is to be found down in the crypt - marble pillars dating back to Roman times and frescoes dating back to the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. The frescoes were restored in October 2009. In the central fresco Christ is in the middle with saints Benedict and John the Baptist on either side. On the right wall is a panel with the Virgin and Child between the Archangel Michael and St Nicholas of Bari.

We ended the day with dinner in the café which is at the side of the abbey amid trees and flowers. They serve delicious pizza and gelato artigianale (home made ice-cream). You can see the Portale delle Donne – (women’s portal) in the background.

Here is a very short video showing the view from the abbey. It makes me what to be back there again...

Daniele, our guide, has several interesting itineraries for day trips in Abruzzo. See his website for more details: http://www.abruzzowithyou.com/

Ski Lesson for Beginners on Mottarone

2012-01-19T19:26:00.032Z

Last January my family and I decided to take a winter holiday in Stresa, Lake Maggiore. We have been there in every other season and so decided to give winter a try. Skiing for the first time was also an exciting prospect. Some friends from Turin joined us for a day of fun on Mt. Mottarone, which is just one hour north of Milan.

View of Isola Pescatori, Isola Madre and Isola Bella

We took the cable car (Funivia Stresa-Mottarone) from the hamlet of Carciano, up to the summit of Mottarone (1,491 metres). During the 20 minute ride up you have breathtaking views over the lake and the three islands. If you are arriving by car you could also reach the top from Stresa by going up the scenic 9km 'Borromeo Road'.

When you leave the cable car you can take the two-seater chairlifts to the summit. From the top on a clear day you can enjoy a full 360° view over seven lakes to the summit of Monte Rosa and the Alps.

As it was our first time to ski we booked a group ski lesson at the ski school (Scuola Sci). We went on a Friday so it wasn't too crowded and there was no waiting in line. Mottarone is very suited to first timers with eight ski runs for beginner skiers and snowboarders. There are also ten ski runs for intermediates and three for expert skiers. The area also features spectacular cross-country trails.

We rented the ski boots, skis, poles (and a helmet for our daughter Amy) at the ‘Sciottalolo’ rental shop near top of the chairlifts. You need to bring some form of ID when you are renting out the equipment. We didn’t know this before going, but luckily our friend Serena had hers and that sufficed. The instructor, Antonella, first helped us with the very basic task of attaching the skis to the ski boots. Serena kindly took the photographs.

Next Antonella had us practise gliding with the skis and then we went on to a type of conveyor belt up to the first level. She showed us the technique called the ‘snowplow’. She spoke English well and had great patience with us.We had to point our skis inwards towards each other, pull our knees together and continually push our feet apart. It takes a bit of time to get used to this strange position and I used muscles that I didn’t even know I had.

We learned that as the skis become more parallel, the faster you go; the more you snowplow, the more you slow down. In order to stop, we were told to just snowplow more widely and with more tilt. It helps if you have strong legs and have a good sense of balance. We practised this over and over going to a higher level each time.

Our daughter turned out to be a natural skier and showed us up. She had no fear at all and I think this is what made the difference. We were worried that if we fell over we might not be able to get back up or look foolish attempting to do so. I was surprised just how hard it is to ski but did have fun trying. It looks so easy when you watch other skiers; even little ones could manage really well. I’ve heard that after the first 3-6 hours you get the knack of it.

Afterwards we had a lovely lunch at Al Rifugio delle Stelle which is beside the ski school. Their menu of typical Piemontese foods included: polenta with mushrooms, game, veal, a good selection of regional wine and homemade pastries. The room has lovely views of the Alps and Monte Rosa.

Monte Rosa

Fil da Fer

We finished off the meal with a drink of the traditional local specialty Fil da Fer (as recommended by Dana of Stresa Sights). It is made from whiskey, milk, sugar and egg yolks and served warm. The others wanted theirs with whipped cream on top and said that it tasted like a dessert. It was a big hit with everyone.

After lunch we rented snow sledges. It cost €5 for the afternoon and they provided hours of fun. Later in the day we chose to go back down to the cable car by the alpine coaster/bobsleigh called Alpyland – 750m of toboggan track with speeds of up to 40kph - it was thrilling!

Younger children might enjoy the little ski train operates every day from December 26th to January 9th and on weekends throughout the year.

If you are in the Milan area and fancy going skiing why not give Mottarone a try? It is a great experience and highly recommended. It is a fantastic place to visit and by the way, January 22nd is World Snow Day!

For more detailed information about Mottarone see Dana’s wonderful blog Stresa Sights.

Photo credits: cable car and panorama - distrettolaghi.it

Epiphany in Stresa

2012-01-04T22:06:00.036Z

This time last year I was in Stresa, Lake Maggiore with my family looking forward to the Procession of the Three Kings to be held on January 6th. My friend Tatiana of Italian Slow Walks asked me if I would write a guest post on her blog about my experience. You can read all about it at this link:

http://santatatiana.wordpress.com/2012/01/04/procession-of-the-re-magi-the-three-wise-kings/

Here are some photos from the day, most of which were kindly taken by our friend Giuseppe:

Variety of traditional winter foods in Piazza Cadorna

Amy warming her hands on the beautiful lit log

Shepherds with goats and sheep on the way to the procession

A chimneysweep (spazzacamino)

Our costumes

I Tre Re Magi

Preparations in Palazzo dei Congressi

The three of us joining the procession

The Three Kings in Piazza Cadorna

A sweet little angel

Court of King Herod
Villa Ducale Stresa

The live presepe with the main participants

Previously I’ve written another guest post about a day in Stresa at the Rocca Angera on my friend Dana’s blog Stresa Sights. In case you missed it you can read about it here:

http://stresasights.blogspot.com/2010/04/la-rocca-angera.html

Italian Christmas Cookies - Cenci alla Fiorentina

2011-12-19T21:57:00.023Z

This December, Stephanie (my son’s girlfriend) and I made delicious Italian Christmas cookies called Cenci alla Fiorentina or as she also calls them - ‘Ewonds’. She is American and has Italian ancestors and here is her Grandma’s recipe. Thanks to Stephanie’s Mom for writing it down!

Preparation time: 1 hr +
Frying time between 1 - 2 minutes per batch
Deep Fryer Temp: 350 Degrees F (180 C).

Ingredients:

4 cups good quality all-purpose flour (Grandma and Stephanie’s Mom use ‘Gold Medal’ – we used Odlums)
6 eggs
1/2 cup vegetable oil (Her mother recommends Wesson)
1/2 tablespoon vanilla extract
1 tablespoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 tsp salt
Vegetable oil for frying (Wesson)
¾ cup of confectioner’s sugar (icing sugar) for sprinkling

To make the pastry:

In a deep bowl, add the flour, baking powder, salt and cinnamon and mix it up thoroughly. Next make a well in the middle bringing the flour up the sides of the bowl. Then add the eggs, oil and vanilla extract.

With your hands, mix the flour down into the middle. The entire kneading process will take at least a good 15 minutes or so. Once the mixture is combined, dump it out on the table and continue kneading the dough until it is completely smooth and elastic. When you press your finger in the dough, it should spring back. Place it back in the bowl, cover with a towel and let it rest for approximately 20 minutes.

Break the dough into small balls. Do not add flour to the table before rolling it out. There is enough oil in the mixture to keep it from sticking. (Stephanie mentioned that it actually felt like a good hand moisturizer!)

Then begin to roll out the dough with a normal rolling pin or an Italian one – a mattarello. (When it was about 1/8” thick, Stephanie switched to a double-ended pastry roller to speed up the process.) She brought this one back from America. I had never seen one like this before in Ireland.

At this stage, you could use a manual pasta machine if you have one, to get the pastry dough paper thin. The pastry has to be almost transparent; you need to be able to see the table or countertop through it.

Next, cut it into diamond shapes with a wavy pastry cutter - each side should be approx 3” long. Then cut two straight slits into the middle of each shape.

Carefully lift up a piece at a time, pull up the centre, take one corner and push it through the loop creating a bow. Place all the bows on a cookie sheet before you begin frying. When the sheet is filled, cover with a towel to keep them from drying out.

Frying the cookies:

Once all the dough is rolled, cut and tied, heat a deep pan with about 3-4 inches of vegetable oil until very hot. When the frying begins turn down the oil so that it does not burn. Cook about 6 cookies at a time, 1-2 minutes for each batch and take them out of the oil with a slotted spoon. Place on a paper towel to drain, then immediately sprinkle with some icing sugar because you want the sugar to stick.

As they cook, place them in a large container lined with wax paper. As you complete a layer, sprinkle the confectioner’s sugar over the cookies. Repeat the cooking, sprinkling and layering until all the ‘ewonds’ are done. They taste light and crispy and not too sweet.

Cenci alla Fiorentina are also associated with the Epiphany and Carnevale and they are a lot of fun to make. Do you recognize this recipe and what do you call these cookies?

Buon Natale!

Trabocco Punta Torre, Abruzzo Coast

2011-11-26T21:32:00.059Z

The traditional fishing huts that are dotted along Abruzzo’s coastline have intrigued me since I first saw them in Francavilla al Mare in 1994. They are called Trabocchi (pronounced tra’bok-key) and last year Bodach of About Abruzzo had great close up pictures of them in his fascinating post Lunch on a Trabocco. I was thrilled that Daniele included a visit to one on his itinerary so that I could see one up close with my own eyes. This August we went to see Trabocco Punta Torre with him, just south of San Vito Chietino.

From the gravel path that leads to the trabocco, we crossed the wooden footbridge with sides made of rope. The trabocco is positioned where the sea has a suitable depth (of at least 6m) and is in the shelter of rocky peaks. A friendly local was here on vacation with his family and he took the time to show us around and answer our questions. This is typical of the warmth of the Abruzzese people.

How does a trabocco work?

Fishermen lower the huge meshed nets to the seabed from a platform at the back, then crank them up when full of fish by an intricate system of pulleys and winches.

There is a large pole in the middle of the platform with a bar going through the centre horizontally. The fisherman pushes on this as he walks around in circles to raise or lower the large nets which are supported by four long arms of wood. He kindly showed Amy the fishing nets and pleased her by saying that he threw back any small fish that got caught.

What does a trabocco look like?
To me it looks like a tree house on stilts, joined to the shore by a long wooden bridge. The famous Italian writer Gabriele D’Annunzio describes one as:

‘A strange fishing machine all made of boards and beams, like a giant spider.’

There was a small kitchen inside the hut with a gas burner, table and sink. He pointed out that the rope hammock was not part of the original trabocco (but it blended in very well). He had even slept there for a couple of nights, but said that sometimes the sound of the waves crashing against the rocks kept him awake.

Some are completely original; others are skillfully reconstructed and made stronger to withstand the Mistral wind. They need regular maintenance and are made from locally sourced acacia wood and Aleppo pine as they are water and salt resistant.

How old are the trabocchi?
They are on average more than 200 years old and originally were used purely as a unique method of fishing from the land instead of using a boat. The trabocchi are a distinctive architectural element and have become a symbol of the history and culture of Abruzzo. The Trabocco Punta Torre was built by Domenico Verì in 1873 and is still owned by the Verì family.

Where can you find the trabocchi?

They stretch from the sandy beaches of Francavilla al Mare right down to the vineyards and olive groves of San Salvo, a coastline of incomparable beauty embellished by these structures. Along the old railway line there is a lovely bike path La Via Verde which follows the coast and would be a nice way to spend a day admiring these unique fishing machines as you cycle along Chieti province coastal cycle path.

Trabocchi Coast Fish Restaurants

How many trabocchi are still in use?
Numbers differ depending on which site you read, but according to some accounts there are about 28 trabocchi still in operation along The Trabocchi Coast. Most are private property; some open only for events such as the Cala Lenta. Fifty years ago there were 65 of them. Then they began to disappear one by one and risked extinction. In 1997 a new law was made in Abruzzo to finance their revival and there was a renewed focus on eco-tourism and since then the trabocco has become a symbol of protection and a tourist attraction. Some of the trabocchi on the north pier of Pescara have been gradually stranded - they are no longer over the water but are surrounded by sand.

Which of the trabocchi are used as fish restaurants?

After a little research I found that at least seven of the trabocchi are used as fish restaurants:

1. Valle Grotte - San Vito Chietino

2. Punta Isolata - Punta Aderci
3. Pesce Palombo - Fossacesia Marina
4. Punta Rocciosa - Fossacesia
5. Punta Cavalluccio - Rocca San Giovanni
6. Punta Punciosa - Rocca San Giovanni
7. Punta Penna - Vasto Marina

They usually serve evening meals. (Click on the links to find out more information about them and how to get there. Some of the sites are in Italian - just press the google translate button at the top of the page.)

In recent years the owners of these ones have begun serving local fish dishes from June through September (dinner is a fixed price of €50 per person - reservations required). There are many starters and the main course comes with homemade pasta. You can eat traditional delicacies such as octopus, anchovies, calamari, fish stew (brodetto), stuffed mussels and squid, shrimp and prawns, seafood and fried fish of all kinds. Water, wine, coffee and dessert are also included in this price.

Next year I plan to return and have the experience of dining in one of these unique restaurants suspended over the Adriatic. Trabocco Pesce Palombo looks interesting...

Our guide Daniele's website: http://www.abruzzowithyou.com/

Cookout in Campo Imperatore

2011-11-13T21:15:00.085Z

We left Santo Stefano di Sessanio in a hurry because Daniele, our driver, had told us that the place where we were going to eat in Campo Imperatore closed at 8pm. The road curved around mountain tops and wound its way through the Gran Sasso National Park past sheep and cattle tracks. Then we descended into a vast plateau and came across a herd of cows, some of which blocked the road for a few minutes! Slowly they made their way to the other side and we continued on.

Daniele told us that some of the Spaghetti Westerns - a sub-genre of Western films dating from the mid-1960’s - were filmed here (as well as in Spain). As we drove along past the miles of open, uninterrupted land surrounded by mountains - I could just imagine cowboys galloping by. It really does look like the old Wild West complete with semi-wild horses, golden eagles and peregrine falcons flying overhead. This unspoiled landscape provided the perfect background scenery for these films.

The Corno Grande in the distance

In the lower plateau of Campo Imperatore there are wooden log cabins that were originally built to equip the cinematographic sets of these legendary Spaghetti Westerns. Years later these cabins were left to the families of shepherds. Ristoro Mucciante is one of these and is open from April to October.

Inside the cabin they sell arrosticini (mini lamb kebabs - 1cm cubed lamb on sticks), sausages, pecorino cheese, beer, olive oil and some local wine.

Outside there are many wooden benches and tables scattered around and several burning braziers available so that you can cook your own meat after you purchase it. We cooked it in two batches, about 10 minutes for each one. It is a fun and very special way to enjoy typical Abruzzese food. The embers in the charcoal of the coal brazier (fornacella) were already glowing. The air temperature dropped to 18C so it was also a nice way to warm our hands, because we actually started to feel cold. It was strange, because back in Ireland 18C would be considered to be a warm summer’s day.

They provide the disposable plates, knives, forks and plastic cups, so you don’t have to bring anything of your own. The price for 50 skewers of arrosticini, bread, olive oil, 5 sausages, water and beer was €45 (not bad for a meal for 5 people)! If you'd prefer to have this food served to you rather than take the risk of cooking it for yourself, you could try the other Ristoro in Campo Imperatore that Bodach of About Abruzzo went to.

Arrosticini

I had my first taste of arrosticini on ferragosto 2007 and I loved them from the very first bite. Accompanied simply by sausages, crusty bread drizzled with delicious olive oil (from Loreto Aprutino) and Perroni beer this rustic traditional food was so enjoyable. The sun was setting as we took in the expansive surroundings, sitting out the middle of nowhere.

When the lights of the Ristoro went out Daniele put his car headlights on until we finished eating as we were the last to leave. Then he announced dramatically “and now for the light show - everyone look up” …

He switched off the headlights and we were awe-struck as we gazed up at the layers of thousands of stars in the black night sky. We could even see the Milky Way directly above us. It was truly an amazing sight and a perfect end to an unforgettable day…

The mesmerizing Milky Way

Where is Campo Imperatore?

Click on map to enlarge

Spellbinding Santo Stefano di Sessanio

2011-10-20T21:05:00.040+01:00

Piazzetta, Santo Stefano di Sessanio

Leaving the Rocca Calascio we continued on towards Santo Stefano di Sessanio in the heart of Abruzzo. Ever since watching the movie ‘The American’ starring George Clooney, I’ve wanted to visit this scenic 16th century hill village. It looked absolutely stunning, just as it did in the film, apart from the sad loss of the tower in the 2009 earthquake. It was picture perfect; around every corner was a different postcard scene. It is no surprise that it has won the award for being one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. Abruzzo has many alluring, ancient hill towns rivalling those of Tuscany and Umbria and the region has won 19 ‘Borghi Piu Belli d’Italia’ awards which is more than any other region in all of Italy.

Traditional Crafts

On entering the village I felt as if I was walking into a different era. There were many talented craftspeople displaying their trades.

Weaving the seat of a chair

Lace-making in the piazza

Being less than two hour's drive away from Rome, nowadays the people here depend on tourism as their main source of income. In the past seven years typical aspects of village life were revived when local artisans were encouraged to move in and set up workshops. They help preserve the identity and culture of their region. With its quaint little artisan shops, art galleries, restaurants and cafés tucked into ancient stone buildings, it provides everything you could want.

Artigianato Artistico

In the handloom weaver’s shop local women weave woollen bedspreads, rugs and throws for sale. Others make linen embroidered bed sheets and lace pillowcases. In the tiny food stores you can purchase locally produced salami, mountain cheeses, homemade breads, jars of wild saffron, jams and pots of honey. There is also a potter’s kiln with hand-made ceramics that you won’t find anywhere else.

On the first weekend of September each year is the lentil festival Sagra delle Lenticchie which celebrates their famous brown lentils. Hundreds of people come to enjoy tasting different lentil dishes.

The village

We enjoyed walking through the village enjoying its sounds, smells and beauty and best of all - no traffic, apart from the odd Ape or Vespa.

We meandered around the labyrinth of narrow, charming cobblestone streets, ancient stone houses with flower-filled balconies, steep stairways, arches and tiny piazzas which characterize Santo Stefano di Sessanio.

Porta Lorda

Piazza di Capo Castello

There is a gorgeous view from the top of the village of the charming historic villages of Castelvecchio Calvisio, Barisciano and Carapelle Calvisio that surround the Gran Sasso National Park.

The village faces the Navelli plain. Its historic stone houses with thick walls and small windows huddle up close to one another around the perimeter. The alleys are bridged by picturesque archways.

Porta Medicea and the coat of arms of the Medici family with five balls

I loved the elegant arches on this gorgeous building ‘The Palazzo del Capitano’ with its Renaissance style gallery.

Palazzo del Capitano

Daniele, our guide, brought us through this narrow gap in the wall called ‘La Buscella’; a place where it is said that in medieval times, young lovers met to steal fleeting kisses, not being able to do so publicly.

La Buscella

Francesco Hayez - The Kiss (1859)

Recent restoration

Since 2004, about a quarter of the ancient houses have been restored by entrepreneur Daniel Kihlgren (44). I found a fascinating article about him here.

With the support of architects, historians, the Abruzzo folk museum and the regional tourist board, he succeeded in reviving the village and giving it back its genuine medieval feel. His hotel Sextantio Albergo Diffuso has rooms in various buildings throughout the village. During the reconstruction, local tradesmen remained as faithful as possible to the artistic style of the past.

Sextantio Albergo Diffuso

George and the film crew stayed here during the making of the movie. Rooms have original rustic open fireplaces and pre-war peasant furniture gleaned from local markets and antique stores. I would love to return for a few days and immerse myself in this mountain village lifestyle.

The Tower

The twisting paths that wind between the houses lead to the spot where the Tower used to stand. Now the metal scaffolding glistening in the sunlight gives hope that the tower will soon return to its former glory.

Restoration has already started and I read that it is due to be completed by 2013. I hope to return to Santo Stefano when this is done and see that magnificent view from the top of the tower. There was so much that we didn’t get to see during our short tour: the restaurants, the art galleries, the attractive church of Madonna del Lago at the edge of the lake - so many reasons to return.

Piazza Medicea

We stopped for an aperitivo in a small piazza before heading off to Ristoro Mucciante for dinner. More about our evening meal in Campo Imperatore in my next post…

If you appreciate nature and are interested in local ways and culture you’ll love Santo Stefano di Sessanio. It gives you a glimpse into the authentic peasant life of a century ago, softened by modern conveniences.

Further reading:

Santo Stefano di Sessanio by abruzzoupndown

Medici memories by Bodach of About Abruzzo

Icons of Beauty - George Clooney and Abruzzo in The American by Sammy of Life in Abruzzo

The Magic of the Rocca Calascio

2011-10-02T21:27:00.054+01:00

I finally succeeded in visiting the dramatic Rocca Calascio after a long time wishing to see it. The problem has always been getting there. We haven’t been brave enough to rent a car in Italy yet and have managed most of our trips so far around Abruzzo using buses and trains. The journey is through mountainous terrain with narrow rocky roads, many of which have no guardrails.

View Larger Map

By bus from Pescara you have to change at L’Aquila and wait for four hours there to get another one to Calascio. As there is no bus back in the evening you would have to stay there overnight. Fortunately for us we discovered Daniele, a guide/driver for the region who speaks English and includes the Rocca Calascio in his tours.

Getting There

Daniele departed from Pescara in the direction of Rome and left the highway at the Bussi exit. We stopped along the way and marvelled at the atmospheric, ancient Abbazia di San Clemente in Casauria. It was built in 871 AD and just recently reopened following restoration after being damaged in the April 2009 earthquake.

Interior of Abbazia di San Clemente

Next we made a short stop at the church of San Pietro ad Oratorium with its ‘magic square’ (on the left hand side of the main portal) and we admired the crystal clear Tirino river near Capestrano.

Chiesa di San Pietro ad Oratorium

The Tirino River is claimed to be the cleanest in Europe

Then he drove in the direction of L’Aquila, turned at Ofena and continued on to Calascio. The whole journey took about an hour and a half. He bravely negotiated the breathtaking winding roads up to the small medieval village of Calascio at the foot of the castle. These roads are so narrow that when we met a string of cars going in opposite direction there was no room to pass; so the cars in front had to reverse back to a safe spot.

On another bend there was a break in the guardrail as if a car had crashed into it and the two sections were held together with a string of red and white striped ribbon to prevent cars from going over the edge!

The Village of Calascio

The houses in the village of Calascio curl around the base of the mountain forming a defensive wall. The startling scenery around it is of rugged towering mountain ranges over valleys and immense plains. We rambled through the narrow village streets and stopped at the Rifugio della Rocca, a charming small restaurant and hotel with a simple, rustic and cozy interior. If you take the bus this would be a lovely place to spend the night. Sheep graze on the hillsides around and the villagers cultivate lentils and saffron in the valley below.

Rifugio della Rocca, Calascio

Interior of Rifugio della Rocca

The Church of Santa Maria della Pietà

Reva, an American girl who is working her way around Italy, joined us for this tour. She also has an interesting blog about her travels called Here’s to Italy. Together we hiked from the village following a rocky path towards the impressive white limestone fortress. The day was sunny and hot 32C (96F) with incredibly clear blue skies. Halfway up the hill we passed the beautiful octagonal church of Santa Maria della Pietà standing on a solitary plateau.

Santa Maria della Pieta with the Corno Grande in the background

It was built between the 16th and 17th centuries, when the Rocca Calascio was the property of the Medicis. The door of the church was open and being curious we headed towards it eager to see how it looked inside. We considered ourselves fortunate as Daniele said that it was usually closed. Alas, there was a private ceremony taking place and we were not allowed to enter. John however got a chance to take this quick photo of the interior from the doorway with his phone.

Interior of Santa Maria della Pieta

The Fortress of Calascio

A little history: At 1460m above sea level the Rocca Calascio is the highest and one of the oldest fortresses in Italy. It was built as a single watchtower in the tenth century for military purposes. There is a walled courtyard with four cylindrical towers at the corners. A taller inner tower was added in the thirteenth century. It was badly damaged by an earthquake centuries ago and never rebuilt so now only the exterior walls remain. Even though it is in ruins it still looks imposing. This drawing by Silvio Germano shows how the Rocca Calascio would have looked in the thirteenth century…

Before getting to the drawbridge you have to climb over a very stony patch and there is no rail to hold on to.

We wandered through the fortress and the wonderful weather provided us with clear views for miles over the magnificent terrain: Campo Imperatore, the Navelli plain and the majestic Gran Sasso Mountains. The absolute silence, the immensity of the surroundings and the high mountains create magical views from the top of the fortress. The atmosphere here is of the Medieval Ages, a place between reality, fantasy and imagination, silence and solitude.

The Rocca Calascio in the province of L’Aquila is one of the most magical places in Abruzzo and this entire day made wishes come true for me. If you are looking for a guide we highly recommend Daniele. He is enthusiastic, friendly and generous and delighted to share his intensive knowledge of the region with visitors. Let yourself be carried away by the Rocca Calascio, its history and the beauty of its breathtaking landscape.

Further reading:
The Spectacular Castle, Rocca Calascio by Tatiana of Italian Slow Walks
Filmed in Abruzzo and Rocca Calascio by Bodach of About Abruzzo
An Italian Fort Worth a Walk To by Sammy of Life in Abruzzo
Getting to Calascio by Christina of Searching for Calascio

A Day in Bologna

2011-09-21T21:37:00.060+01:00

If you are visiting Rome, Florence, Milan or Venice it is worth planning a detour to experience the architectural, artistic and culinary delights of beautiful Bologna. This summer was our fifth visit to this alluring, colourful city. Usually we stay for just a couple of nights but on a day trip you could manage to see several of the main attractions.

Piazza Maggiore, Bologna

What exactly can you see in just one day you may ask? Well, the city centre is quite compact so it’s easy to get around on foot. Some great things about Bologna that I like are that:

• Private cars are banned from the city centre during the day
• The museums are free to visit (except for the Pinacoteca Nazionale)
• There are many food markets and a huge weekly market (Friday and Saturday)
• The porticoes shelter you from the sun or the rain
• The food is amazing ( it is the unofficial culinary capital of Italy)
• It has a perfectly preserved medieval centre

Piazza Maggiore, the magnificent main square is a good place to start. Get a free map of the city in the large tourist information office opposite the cathedral before you begin your exploration. First off, inside the gothic interior of Basilica San Petronio on the left of the square, there is an interesting Zodiacal sundial 67m long on the floor. It was created by astronomer Domenico Cassini in the 17th century. If you look up you’ll see a tiny window in the apse where the sun shines through illuminating the meridian line which shows the exact period of the current year.

The Palazzo Comunale (Palazzo d'Accursio), the elegant adjacent building, is home to three museums with many illustrious and priceless works of art throughout. A Bramante stairway leads to the first floor; the low, wide steps were to allow those on horse-back access to the upper floors. The museum of painting and decorative objects on the first floor has richly frescoed ornate rooms with lovely views of the piazza from the windows. In the Sala Farnese on the second floor, the ceiling from the 1800’s is beautifully illustrated. If you are interested in art you’ll enjoy the Morandi museum on the third floor. It contains about 200 paintings by Bologna born artist Giorgio Morandi (1890-1964) the greatest Italian still life painter of the 20th century. The collection spans his career from youth to maturity.

Museo Morandi

Leaving the building around the corner you’ll find yourself in the adjoining Piazza di Nettuno. Take the time to admire all the details of the stunning Neptune fountain.

Fontana di Nettuno Bologna
Palazzo Re Enzo on the right

Continue down the street towards the Two Towers. The orange, ochre and yellow of the surrounding buildings are magnificent and most of the roofs have red terracotta tiles. If you climb the 498 steps to the top of the Asinelli tower at the end of this street you can see them and view a marvellous panorama of the city.

Bologna's iconic Two Towers
Garisenda and Asinelli

Near the Two Towers is the gorgeous, atmospheric, Piazza Santo Stefano – a must-see.

The tranquil church of Santo Stefano is a unique cluster of 7 churches and temples with two cloisters attached dating from the 8th century. It is fascinating to wander around these stunning churches and see the different styles of architecture within. Stop for a coffee at the charming café nearby and soak in the ambience of serenity. (By the way, in addition to your coffee many places here serve a complimentary glass of acqua frizzante.)

Head towards Via Clavature to see the amazing sculptures in the Santuario Santa Maria della Vita (which I wrote about in my previous post) and then explore the tiny side streets with many small food shops in the medieval market area. There are fishmongers, vegetable vendors, chocolatiers, homemade pastas, salumi (cured pork, beef, lamb or veal) and cheeses at La Baita. Check out the mouth-watering pastries and the panificio on via Orefici. Bologna has so many good restaurants, trattorias and osterias; I believe that no matter where you choose to eat in this city you’ll have a wonderful meal. If you want a quick takeaway lunch Pizzeria Il Mascalzone on via dell'Indipendenza is the place to go.

Now for one of Bologna’s secrets…If you continue walking down towards via Piella and cross a bridge you’ll come to a wall with a little window cut out in it about two feet square. When you look through this window you’ll get a surprise…

Piccola Venezia, Bologna

Last summer our friend Enrico pointed this out to us. I don’t think that we would have ever discovered it by ourselves. He said that not many tourists have come across this window, but now you know where to find it! It is also known as Piccola Venezia, the last of the canals of Bologna which date back to the 12th century.

The shops re-open about 3.30pm. One of my favourites is the Feltrinelli bookstore. I always return from Italy with Italian books, CDs or DVDs.

La Feltrinelli bookstore Bologna
via Zamboni

Lastly, you could end your day with a hike up to the beautiful Santuario di San Luca. We first went there in August 1998 so the photos below are scanned. The sanctuary is located on the hill that oversees the entire city. Take bus number 20 from the city centre to the stop at the Meloncello Arch. Bologna has a frequent and efficient bus (and train) service. From here it is a 2k walk to the church at the top under a unique portico of 666 arches. Built in the mid 18th century it offers lovely views of the landscape below and you’ll pass frescoed chapels along the way.

You could have dinner up here in the evening at Trattoria Meloncello or back down in the centre where there is such a large choice of superb restaurants including Ristorante Biagi, Osteria al 15 and Da Cesari.

During July and August there are free films outdoors on a giant screen in Piazza Maggiore at 10pm. With a gelato in hand, sitting in the piazza, watching a movie in the open-air on a warm summer’s night is a magical way to end a day in Bologna. You could easily spend a week here and still not see all it has to offer!

Open-air cinema Piazza Maggiore Bologna
image courtesy of http://www.tafter.it/

If you are here for more than one day you could visit the three main museums: the Medieval City Museum, the Archeological Museum and the wonderful Pinacoteca. Bologna gives you so many things to do and see but it's up to you to choose how to experience this fascinating city. Have you been to Bologna yet? What would you include as a must-see here?

A Night in Bologna

2011-09-11T22:55:00.056+01:00

There was a warm, lively atmosphere in the heart of the city as we took a stroll after a wonderful dinner. Being a university city (home to the oldest university in Europe) Bologna is buzzing with young students in the streets in the evenings. They gather in groups in the squares and under the porticoes, the typical arcades of Bologna (all 38km – about 24 miles of them). At night the porticoes seem like the insides of long, softly lit serpents wending their way into the blackness.

This harpist took advantage of the great acoustics under the porticoes

Because it is not on the usual tourist trail, Bologna retains an earthiness not found in other similar sized cities like Florence or Venice. Walking through the illuminated medieval town centre is a magical experience. There is a small-town feel in this big city. We started our stroll in Piazza Maggiore, dominated on the left-hand side by the impressive Basilica of San Petronio, the fifth largest church in Europe.

San Petronio Bologna

On the opposite side of the square is the Palazzo del Podestà.

Palazzo del Podesta'

Adjacent to it is Bologna’s city hall (palazzo comunale) with its magnificent clock tower and carillon clock.

Palazzo Comunale Bologna (also called Palazzo d'Accursio)

The magnificent Fontana di Nettuno in the adjoining piazza

Leaving the square we passed these cute Vespa scooters posing on Via Santo Stefano.

Vespa scooters on Via Santo Stefano

The beautiful Palazzo della Mercanzia on Via Santo Stefano

Turning into Via Clavature, behind Trattoria Da Gianni (which looked like a lovely place to eat outdoors) we noticed that the door of the church behind it was open.

Santuario Santa Maria della Vita with
Trattoria da Gianni in foreground

It was the Santuario Santa Maria della Vita and the Baroque interior was elegant and airy.

Interior Santuario Santa Maria della Vita

When we went towards the right of the altar we saw a group of people gathered around a guide who was describing some extraordinary terracotta statues. These figures look so dramatic, emotional and awe-inspiring that I had goose bumps when I looked at them; they took my breath away. It was an unexpected surprise...

The six life-sized terracotta figures are standing around the body of Christ, lamenting his death. They are highly realistic with expressions of grief and torment on their faces, a mixture of motion and emotion, in dramatic poses with the women’s robes flying out behind them. I was particularly in awe of the two Marys on the right.

Joseph of Arimathea, Mary Salome, the Virgin Mary, Saint John the Evangelist, Mary of Cleophas and Mary Magdalene in visible distress.

This masterpiece was created by Niccolò Dell'Arca an early Renaissance sculptor in 1463. (If you look closely, you’ll see his name engraved on the tasselled pillow.) The poet Gabriele D’Annunzio was so moved after seeing these scupltures that he wrote about them in his story ‘Le Faville del Maglio’ (The Sparks of the Hammer) and described this work perfectly as a ‘scream turned to stone.’ The Compianto sul Cristo morto is an exceptional work of art and one that I feel will remain in my memory forever.

Leaving the Sanctuary we turned into Via Farini. If you like to shop for clothes, you're going to love the Galleria Cavour on this street. It has a lot of chic high fashion shops including Armani, Gucci, Prada,Yves Saint Laurent and Versace. In August during the sales there are reductions of 50-70% in most of the stores. It reminded me of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuelle II in Milan.

Autumn collection in Galleria Cavour

Nearby in Piazza Ravegnana are the Two Towers, the main symbols of the city. Torre degli Asinelli is 97m tall with 498 steps to the top from where, on a clear day, you can enjoy spectacular views of the red roofed city. Torre dei Garisenda is not open to the public as it has a lean of over 3m (10 feet). Both were built in the 12th century.

Bologna's Two Towers

On the way back on this balmy night we stopped for ice-cream at Cremeria Funivia on Via Porrettana. It is so named because there used to be a cableway from this point up to the Santuario San Luca on the hill (Colle della Guardia). Enrico, a lifelong Bologna resident said that it was one of the best places for gelato in the city. All of the homemade gelato is made fresh daily on the premises. I tried the nocciola and it was excellent!

The spacious interior of Cremeria Funivia, Bologna

Santuario San Luca overlooking the city on Guardian Hill

We returned to our hotel feeling very content after this enchanting night in Bologna. My next post will be about what you can see and do if you only have one day in Bologna…

A Month in Italy - Bologna, Abruzzo, Le Marche and Stresa

2011-08-26T16:58:00.034+01:00

I returned yesterday after spending a fantastic month in Italy, three weeks of which were in Abruzzo. We started off our first week in Stresa on Lago Maggiore, and then travelled down to Abruzzo. I kept a small journal of what we did each day and as the last days of the holiday are freshest in my memory this is where I shall begin and then work backwards to the day when we arrived…

Hotel Porta San Mamolo, Bologna

We were in Bologna for the last two days of our vacation before flying back to Dublin. We treated ourselves to a night at the beautiful Hotel Porta San Mamolo which is an oasis of peace in the heart of the city and I highly recommend it. The owner welcomed us warmly and recognised us from our three night stay there last August. Our Bolognese friend Enrico brought us to dinner in the evening to a fabulous family-run trattoria, Nonna Aurora, serving homemade regional specialties. It is near the train station on Via Aristotile Fioravanti, 45. Enrico said that it was in an area not often visited by tourists. The dining area is very inviting and the host Max is very friendly. On three walls are enormous sepia coloured photos of central Bologna. The two brothers, Max and Davide, work as waiters while their mother ‘Nonna Aurora’ does the cooking. She makes all of the pasta by hand and is a young-looking, sprightly grandma who wears her dark hair tied back with a headscarf. As we had no lunch that day due to travelling, we were feeling very hungry. I don’t know if this contributed to our enjoyment of the meal, but at the end we felt that this was one of the best meals of the holiday!

Ristorante Nonna Aurora, Bologna

Enrico ordered for us as he knew from experience which dishes were the best. First we had the most exquisite tortellini in brodo (small ring shaped pasta filled with pork in chicken broth) that I've ever tasted.

Tortellini in brodo

Next we had a mix of gramigna al sugo di salsiccia and tagliatelle al sugo di cipolla. Normally, I don’t like the taste of onion (cipolla), but these were really sweet and delicious. The sausage meat sauce braised in wine served with the gramigna was so flavoursome too.

Gramigna al sugo di salsiccia and
Tagliatelle al sugo di cipolla

This was followed by delectable fried pillow-shaped focaccia like bread – crescentine con affetati misti. It was served with a platter of Parma ham, mortadella, salami and a typical soft cheese called stracchino from Romagna, along with olives and pickled onions.

Crescentine con affetati misti

If you are ever in Bologna and want to taste real Bolognese food, reasonably priced and prepared with care and dedication, visit 'Le Golosità di Nonna Aurora’. It is very popular with the locals – always a good sign- so booking is advised. Max, the host, speaks English very well. +39 051 357 919

Night time walk in Bologna

After that wonderful meal Enrico took us on a magical night-time stroll around the historical centre of Bologna (il centro storico). I’ll write about this in my next post…

Ten Attractions in Varenna - Lake Como

2011-06-23T15:07:00.054+01:00

Varenna from Bellagio

Following on from my previous post about places where you can eat outdoors in Varenna, here are ten of the main attractions that we found during our time there:

1. Villa Monastero – From the main piazza (which is free of through traffic), if you walk along the road going south you will soon come to the Villa Monastero and gardens. This is a gorgeous lakeside villa with extravagant gardens; the slopes are quite steep in places.Villa Monastero was built in the early 13th century and was a Cistercian convent dedicated to St Mary Magdalene. We spent more than five peaceful hours strolling around the alluring, lavish gardens with rare Mediterranean and tropical plants and flowers. It is a photographic paradise and famed for its citrus trees. There is another lovely café here called Al Monastero where you can have a break for lunch in stunning surroundings. You can also tour the villa, furnished with Renaissance pieces, baroque lounges, Louis IX furnishings and Gobelin tapestries. There is a long lakeside promenade, with paths and terraces set against a beautiful mountain backdrop. See their website for further information:
http://www.villamonastero.eu/

Villa Monastero

2. Castello di Vezio This partially ruined castle at the top of the hill dates back to the 7th century was allegedly founded by the Lombard Queen Theodolinda. Starting from the main piazza there are signs that lead you along a steep mule track up to it. We took about 45 minutes to reach the castle, through woodland, past wildflowers, cats, butterflies and an olive grove. Once you arrive, you can walk across the drawbridge and climb to the top of the tower for a breathtaking 360˚ view of the lake, the town below and over to the Bellagio headland. Up here you can also meet a falconer who breeds birds of prey such as: barn owls, buzzards and hawks. He holds falconry displays at weekends and you can admire astonishing flights during good weather.For further information see http://www.castellodivezio.it/

Castello di Vezio

3. The Lovers' Walk begins at the departure point for ferries, boats and hydrofoils to a stretch of the lungolago past a small harbour area to a line of lakeside restaurants, pretty shops and gelaterias. It reminded me of the Via dell’Amore in the Cinque Terre - a scenic walkway which clings to the rocks and it is flat and comfortable to stroll along. It is lit up beautifully at night. On the waterfront is a lovely promenade with hanging willows, cypress trees and wood-planked pedestrian bridges.

La Passerella
The Lover's Walk

4.Villa Cipressi is situated in an enchanting position on the shores of Lake Como with a beautiful and rich botanical garden containing towering cypress trees, flowering azaleas, rhododendron, magnolias and wisteria. The Villa Cipressi is converted into a hotel and looks like a gorgeous place to stay or have a wedding reception. The botanical pathway winds through centuries-old gardens with five terraces of luxuriant vegetation that reach down to the lake. Fine sculptures are scattered throughout the manicured compact gardens; it is much easier to get around than the gardens of Villa Monastero. From the lovely restaurant right on the lake shore you have heavenly views of the lake.

Gardens of Villa Cipressi

5. Fiumelatte: you can get to this little frazione of Varenna from Piazza San Giorgio on a lovely path about 1km from the town. It gets its name (river of milk) from the shortest river in Italy, which is only 250m long. The river flows for six months a year, a cascade of bubbling white foam. It springs from a cave in the rock that has had several famous explorers including Leonardo Da Vinci. There is a lovely delicatessen to the right of the river called 'La Bottega di Fiumelatte.' http://www.fiumelatte.it/

6. Churches. The large Romanesque Parish Church of San Giorgio in the main piazza has three naves and twin aisles and was consecrated in 1313. Its façade is embellished by a large fresco portraying Saint Christopher, to bring luck to passing travellers. The most precious work of art inside is the coloured stone Deposition of Christ. There are also 14th and 15th-century frescoes and polyptychs by Como-based artists. The church was restored in 1957. On Good Friday there was a procession leading from this church with stops at various Stations of the Cross dotted around the town. The impressive belltower chimes on the hour and half hour (but not during the night)!

Chiesa di San Giorgio

Good Friday in Varenna

The Oratorio di San Giovanni Battista is tucked away in the corner of the old town centre. This tenth-century church is the oldest in Varenna and one of the first to be erected along the shores of Lake Como. The building is well-preserved, typically Romanic in style, although the paintings and frescoes that embellish it are from the fifteenth century. It is always open and worth having a look inside.

Oratorio di San Giovanni Battista

Interior of Oratorio San Giovanni Battista

The Chiesa Santa Maria delle Grazie is a 17th century church overlooking the main piazza. It has a Baroque interior, a wooden altar, polychrome wooden statues and paintings from the 16th century.

La Chiesa Santa Maria delle Grazie

7. Art Studios. Varenna has a little artist’s community. The Gallery Roberto Butta has gorgeous paintings of Lake Como and offers a world-wide delivery service. http://www.robertobutta.it/

The DeMaria Studio D’Arte has a permanent display of original oil paintings for Paul Demaria Guaitamacchi collectors worldwide. http://www.pauldemaria.com/

Annamaria Rivolta and her daughter Francesca Porro have beautiful pastel watercolour paintings and give painting lessons too. You can find them at Contrada Pirelli, 6.

8. Exploring Varenna's many quaint narrow lanes and alleyways.

Charming alleyways in Varenna

9. The Ornithological Museum is located inside the tourist information office near Villa Monastero and the main piazza. It contains 700 species of labeled stuffed birds displayed on several floors, which you can examine up close. On the top floor there is also a large stuffed polar bear. This is a fun place for children and nature lovers. http://www.museovarenna.191.it/

10. Ferry and boat trips from Varenna to other towns on the centre lake make Varenna a perfect home base for visiting the entire lake. When taking the ferry back from a trip to Bellagio you’ll have great views of the town, wedged on a promontory under the mountains. Along with the brightly painted houses, you can admire the parish church and the castle at the top of the hill. As the town sits on the eastern side of the lake, the light is spectacular at sunset and covers everything with a warm golden glow.

Sunset in Varenna

We spent the first three days of our week in Varenna exploring all there was to see in the town and then gave Bellagio, Menaggio, Bellano and Tremezzo (home of Villa Carlotta) a day of their own. Varenna is the perfect place to slow down, to relax and breathe more deeply; a place where the beauty of the scenery takes centre stage.

View Larger Map
Have you been to Varenna? What would you include as a must-see here?

Varenna - Lake Como

2011-06-09T23:25:00.064+01:00

When I read about the enchanting little town of Varenna, Lake Como on Nerys's interesting blog A Welshie in Italy, it sounded like the perfect place to spend a relaxing holiday. So, my family and I decided to take a trip there for Easter week.

The picturesque town of Varenna

As it’s only a one hour train journey from Milan it’s very easy to reach and it’s just a 15 minute walk from the station to the town centre. Varenna (see map) is in an idyllic spot in the middle of Lake Como and it forms a ‘golden triangle’ with Bellagio and Menaggio. One of the first things that struck me was the deep, rich colours of the beautiful old buildings in shades of yellow ochre and saffron.

Colourful buildings in Varenna

A shady promenade runs along the shoreline, passing elegant villas and botanical gardens dotted with fine sculptures. There are many charming cobblestone alleyways with steps and archways which lead up to the main piazza. Rising high above the terracotta-tiled rooftops is the steeple of San Giorgio church. Varenna is only a fifteen-minute ferry ride from the more well-known lakeside resort of Bellagio, but its awe-inspiring scenery and peaceful solitude make it the perfect retreat; it has a much more relaxed atmosphere.

Where to Eat (and drink) in Varenna

As the weather was glorious during Easter week, we chose restaurants where you could dine al fresco:

1. Bar il Molo. This was our favourite place to eat in Varenna. On our first night we had a delicious dinner here and returned several nights after because it was so good! It is in a magnificent waterfront location with tables arranged on a terrace overhanging the lake. The authentic cuisine includes: pasta, pizza, salads, bruschette, sweet and savoury piadine and local specialities and the prices are very reasonable. The gnocchi with salmon and cream sauce was delicious. Simone, the owner, is so welcoming and chats with all his customers. The adjacent room with an exhibition of local produce and products is worth visiting.

Bar il Molo

Local produce Varenna

2. On Wednesday (when Bar il Molo was closed) we ate the Nilus Bar next-door. It is in a romantic setting perched over the water's edge. You can hear the waves lapping against the shoreline and watch the swans and ducks as you eat. It has a heavenly lake view and in the evenings you can admire the sailboats and ferries lit up under spectacular sunsets.

The crepe with salmon was scrumptious;
although the food here was simple it tasted so good.

Nilus Bar
(I loved the little red cushions at the back of the seats)

3. Ristorante il Cavallino is a traditional fisherman’s restaurant with the most ample selection of local fresh water fish. It’s in an enchanting position on the lakeside, the outdoor area under a vine-covered pergola, creates a perfect romantic atmosphere for savoring the cuisine of the lake. If you love fish, this is the place to go!

Ristorante Il Cavallino

4. Ristorante La Vista (at Albergo Milano) – superb food with an incredible panorama from its elevated position where you have a view of three branches of the lake in a cosy atmosphere – highly recommended! This is the only restaurant where we had to make reservations ahead of time.

Ristorante La Vista - Albergo Milano

5. Opposite the lake there are little cobbled alleyways between the buildings with steep steps. All of these alleyways lead to the main street and piazza in the town where there is the parish church, more restaurants and two little alimentari, grocery stores – there is no supermarket. Here in the corner of Piazza San Giorgio you will find the Albergo del Sole a family run restaurant. It serves wonderful pizzas baked in a wood-fired oven. Try their house special pizza - a type of margherita with Parma ham, served with an egg on top.

Albergo del Sole
Piazza San Giorgo

6. There is also a fantastic wine bar, cafeteria and internet café in the main piazza called Al Barilott. The owners Fabrizio and Claudio are warm-hearted and knowledgeable. We used to have our morning cappuccinos here - for only €1.20. Fabrizio says he doesn't charge 'tourist prices.' I overheard one customer remark that they serve the best coffee in town! They also have an extensive wine collection. Have a look at their website to see all that they offer.

Al Barilott

8. Ristorante La Contrada, Hotel Villa Cipressi. This restaurant was halfway along the walkway of Villa Cipressi. It has one of the most picturesque settings of the lake, in the middle of the botanical gardens with a view to both branches of Lake Como.

Ristorante La Contrada
Villa Cipressi

9. Ristorante Olivedo glowed in the evening sunlight like a painting. It is renowned for its typical Lombardy cuisine. Part of a small, elegant liberty-style hotel it is rich in charm and personality and situated directly opposite the ferry landing stage, it looks so inviting...

Ristorante Olivedo

10. For ice-cream, I have to agree that the gelato in the Riva Gelateria (formerly known as La Giazzera) overlooking the little harbour and recommended by Nerys - was excellent!

My favourite - pistacchio e nocciola

Let me know if you’ve been to Varenna and of any restaurants that shouldn’t be missed on a visit here! There is more to come ... In my next post I'm going to write about Ten of the Attractions in Varenna.

The town of Appignano di Macerata

2011-03-30T18:57:00.073+01:00

The Town Hall in Appignano di Macerata

Whenever we’ve visited Le Marche we’ve always stayed with good friends in the pretty hill town of Appignano di Macerata (see map), in the heart of this picturesque region. It is situated exactly half way between the sea and the mountains, just a 30 minute drive each way. Not to be confused with Appignano del Tronto further south in Ascoli, this medieval town is known nationally for its production of ceramics (produced here for over 500 years) furniture and clothes.

The origins of Appignano date from Roman times. Appignano di Macerata is a charming town, 200m above sea level with a population of about 4,000 and about 10 kilometers from the provincial capital Macerata. The friendly people and the lifestyle here is very similar to what I’ve witnessed in Abruzzo. What I love about Appignano is how the locals:

• go to the bar in the morning for their cappuccino or caffe latte and a pastry
• chat with their friends and neighbours in the street
• break for a two hour lunch during the day and have a family meal around the kitchen table
• spend their evenings outdoors: the women sit outside in the street knitting or crocheting and chatting together and the men congregate in groups and play cards
• the children play outside even when it is dark
• the people call out to one another from across their balconies

These balconies are like little sanctuaries: cozy, romantic and fragrant

There are many monuments of art and architecture to be seen in Appignano:

John and Stefano outside la Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista

La Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista (St John the Baptist), built in the 16th century and renovated in the 18th century.

La Chiesa dell'Addolorata (Our Lady of Sorrows) built for the first time in the Middle Ages and rebuilt in 1746.
Il Convento di Forano 1473, known for having hosted, according to tradition, St Francis of Assisi.
Villa Tusculano, a villa built in the Napoleonic era under the patronage of Count Leopoldo Armaroli.
Villa Forano – Winery. The Cellar is open everyday for winetasting from 8:30 to 12:00 and from 15:00 to 19:00 (except Thursdays and Sundays).

Events in Appignano

Like most towns throughout Italy, Appignano has its own special events that are unique to the area. During the first week of July, for three evenings, a festival called Bellente il Brigante takes place in the town hall square. It is a traditional dinner for about 180 people with typical dishes of the 19th century. More than 70 actors in period costume, extras, musicians and dancers represent the history to the spectators. Around the guests, the actors evoke the habits of Appignano’s inhabitants in 1812, when life was influenced by the contradictions of the Napoleonic state and by the legacy of the papal authority. Among the events of the period that are represented in this festival, there are the stories of the young Appignanese hero Pietro Masi and other characters who actually existed. The spectators are comfortably seated at long tables and enjoy local recipes from the 800s, served in typical bowls handmade by local artisans. The aim is to give tourists the opportunity to experience Appignano’s local traditions, culture, folklore, food and wine.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1JnqbFUNu3U

If you are interested in attending one of these evenings contact the Pro Loco of Appignano in Piazza Umberto I (Tel. 338 7878472) or send an email to prolocoappignano@alice.it

In mid-October Appignano hosts another gastronomic event called Leguminaria. It is dedicated to legumes (chickpeas, beans, lentils and roveja). Roveja is the dialect name for field pea which is only grown in the Sibillini Mountain National Park in Le Marche. All of the dishes are prepared according to traditional recipes and are served in earthenware bowls specially made for the occasion by Appignano’s master potters. Everyone who attends the meal can take home their bowl as a souvenir of the occasion. Much appreciated by lovers of rural tourism, the town of Appignano di Macerata is ideal for short or long term stay and is devoted to well-being and culture.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDgryWs7rKg

*******************************************
Our friend Stefano kindly gave me local information about the best places to stay in Appignano, the bars, restaurants and pizzerias. Here is what he said about them:

Where to stay in Appignano:

"Osteria dei Segreti: located at the edge of Appignano is a very nice, quiet place in the middle of the countryside. There is a lovely panorama in front of the Sibillini mountains. It has good food with a nice price. They have 6 rooms and 6 small apartments to rent. This what their website says about the local cuisine:

Osteria dei Segreti

Rustic ambience and family oriented for a taste of local flavors, such as: cappellacci (pasta shaped like little hats) with fonduta (melted cheese) and truffles, gnocchi with a traditional meat sauce and ‘cargiù’ with porcini mushrooms and cherry tomatoes, grilled crescia (onion flavoured focaccia) the perfect complement to the delicious salami and pecorino Sibillini.

Villa Verdefiore: hotel (agriturismo) and restaurant located on the edge of town with lovely rooms. A very nice place with a huge park all around it. Good for weddings, celebrations and meetings. Good food, price middle/high.

Villa Verdefiore
La Colombaia: A beautiful country house with a Wellness Centre located at the edge of Appignano. Good food, middle/high price. Lovely outdoor swimming pool.

La Colombaia

Where to Eat:

- Ristorante Lord Byron, located in the historical main square. They serve home made food, typical of Le Marche; nice place, nice people, nice price!

- Ristorante Le Grazie, situated not far from the centre. They also serve home made food. It is an old style restaurant for good food and a good price.

Bars/Cafés in Appignano

- Bar H, located in the industrial area of Appignano. Young people meet there. Bar H in Italian sounds like "baracca" which means chalet or cabin. In fact it is made of wood like a mountain cabin... in the middle of the industrial area!

- Bar del Borgo: located in the borgo of Appignano. Middle aged and older people meet there.

- Bar White Lady: located near Giuseppe's pottery shop Ceramiche fratelli Testa (I'm going to write about this in a future post). Young people meet there. In Stefano’s opinion this one is the best bars in town.

- Bar Giardino dei Tigli: located on the 'monte' of Appignano. We went there to have an ice cream last summer. Most young people meet there during summertime.

There are two pubs in Appignano and you can get a very good takeaway pizza at Pizza E Vai.

- Dal Tramonto all'Alba Pub: nice place located in an old Italian cinema's room. The son of Giuseppe the potter, Mauro Testa, designed the interior. On Saturday and Sunday evenings families go there to have pizza for dinner because they serve great pizza. Sometimes they play live music.

- La Cantina del Porto: located in the borgo. Nice place with good music, sometimes they play live music here also. There is an old story concerning Appignano when many years ago in Appignano there was a small port. Appignano has a little river called Monocchia. At the beginning of the 900s women went there to wash their clothes. Men went there too - to see the women's legs when they hitched up their long skirts! Stefano likes to think that this story is true. When older people meet a person from Appignano they say:

(In dialect): “Ah! Venghi da Pignà. Ce ru ‘portu’ de Pignà, ce vinio da gioenottu a vedè re gamme de re donne!”
(In Italian): Ah! vieni da Appignano. C'è il ‘porto’ ad Appignano. Ci venivo da giovane a verdere le gambe delle donne!
(In English): Ah! You come from Appignano. There is a port in Appignano. I used to go there when I was young to look at the women's legs! "

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Last but not least, Appignano has its own rock stars! They are a Rolling Stones tribute band who call themselves The Kingstones. Ciccio (Alessio), Stefano’s brother, is an excellent guitarist. They usually play in the nearby town of Macerata and went on tour last winter playing in Milano, Napoli and Salerno and it was a big success. Have a listen here and see how great they are! (Ciccio is wearing the black sleeveless shirt).

One of my favourite memories of our time in Appignano is of the night of San Lorenzo when Ciccio and Stefano serenaded us on a nearby hilltop while we watched the falling stars. It is a night I will remember forever…

Photo credit: Town Hall Appignano http://www.progressonews.com/index.php/2010/11/appignano-ancora-bandiera-verde/

The town of Treia, Macerata

2011-02-09T20:50:00.051Z

Treia, Macerata
photo credit: gillpoll

Treia (see map) is a quintessential hill town in the heart of Le Marche filled with Romanesque, Renaissance and Neoclassical architecture. We were fortunate to be invited to dinner by Dan and Maria, a lovely American couple who run a gorgeous B&B there ‘Villa Trina’. It is easy to see why they chose to live there. It is surrounded by the most beautiful countryside and has stunning panoramic views from the Apennine Mountains to the west and the Adriatic to the east. There is much to see and do in the local area. The town itself has:

A medieval cathedral (one of the largest in the region) - Cattedrale di SS Annunziata
Torre dell’Onglavina - the remains of a castle on a rocky spur
Thirteenth century Palazzo Pretorio
A large piazza with a horseshoe-shaped balustrade offering breathtaking views
A Civic Museum
The Church and convent of S. Filippo
The Georgic Academy
The 17th-century Town Hall with a collection of Renaissance and classical paintings
The Museo Civico Archeologico also includes Egyptian religious statues of the Roman period.
Santuario del SS. Crocifisso, a large early 20th-century church complex

Santuario del SS Crocifisso
(courtesy of Pro Loco Marche)

Turreted boundary walls and gates maintain the medieval aspect of the elegant, charming town of Treia perched high on a hill, untouched by mass tourism. For its beautifully preserved historical center it is included among the Borghi più belli d'Italia.

Unusual Ball Game in Treia

In July we saw posters around the town for ‘Disfida del Bracciale’. Our friend Stefano explained that Treia is famous for hosting a traditional ball game dating from Renaissance times called The Challenge of the Armlet (also known as Pallone col bracciale).

Pallone col Bracciale (Wikipedia)

He said that it was similar to tennis but instead of racquets, the players use a device called a ‘bracciale’- a sort of wooden cylindrical spiked glove worn over the hand and forearm. A hard leather ball is pounded back and forth between two teams of three, with a high wall (between 14 and 20m) on one side, permitting deflection back into the field of play. The court is very long - around 90m. Scores are the same as in tennis – 15, 30, 40, game – and the first team to win six games is the victor. The Challenge is preceded by costume processions and ceremonies, evoking the times of Carlo Didimi, the greatest player of pallone. Each year the challenge is held on the first Sunday of August, following ten days of festivities that start on the Friday before the second last Sunday in July. This unique festival ends with a magnificent fireworks display.

Typical Local Dishes of Treia

The “calcione” is one of the most famous typical products of Treia. Each year in mid-May the Sagra Del Calcione e Del Raviolo is held in Piazza della Repubblica. Calcione is made from flour and eggs, lightly sweetened, turned and folded into a half moon shape and filled with eggs, pecorino, sugar and oil. Il Raviolo is filled with ricotta cheese, eggs and nutmeg and served with ragù di carne and parmigiano. There are two versions, one is fried and the other is baked in the oven. They are served with the excellent local wine Vernaccia di Serrapetrona. In May Treia also hosts the Sagra dell’Oca (Festival of the Goose). Typical of the area are also:

• Ciauscolo - a delectable, spreadable salami.

• Porchetta with grilled polenta.
• Coniglio alla cacciatora (rabbit stew hunter-style).
• Scroccafusi (Castagnole marchigiane) – a pastry of flour, eggs, sugar, aniseed and lemon zest.
• Cicerchiata - balls of fried sweet dough joined into ring shapes by warm honey.

Piazza della Repubblica, Treia
photo credit: e. ciaralli

Treia is also an ideal place from which to explore other towns in Italy, with Perugia, Bologna, Florence, Assisi, Pescara, Siena and Rome all day-trip possibilities. Closer still are the university town of Macerata, just a 15 minute drive away and the Thermal Baths in Tolentino, just 18km (11 miles) to the south. I would recommend hiring a car for getting around this area as it is not served by railway and buses are infrequent, but this ensures its tranquillity.

The Best Places to Visit in Le Marche

2011-01-16T22:24:00.110Z

Le Marche, Italy in one Region
“If one had to decide which Italian landscape was the most typical,you’d have to choose the Marche …with its range of landscapes, it is a distillation of Italy.”
Guido Piovene, Viaggio in Italia, 1957

The central region of Marche is a well guarded secret, but once you discover it you are completely captivated and mesmerized by its beauty, just as I am.

The region is bordered in the west by the Apennine mountain range with ski resorts and hiking trails. Between the Apennines and the Adriatic coast is a glorious hilly landscape with traditional farming of cereals, vineyards, olive groves and sunflowers. Every few kilometres you come across pretty hilltop villages, fields of gold, sparkling lakes, castles, fortresses and medieval walled towns. The 180km of Adriatic coastline is lined with a stretch of spectacular blue flag beaches. The region is full of history, art and culture with Renaissance churches, abbeys and monasteries surrounded by sweet, gentle hills. Many of the greatest architects and artists of the Renaissance period were from Le Marche - Raphael, Donato Bramante and Gentile da Fabriano.

Le Marche has many restaurants with excellent quality and value and boasts an exquisite wine collection including Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi and Rosso Conero.

My favourite food of Le Marche is Vincisgrassi (a type of lasagne made from veal, lamb and porcini mushrooms) and John's is Brodetto Marchigiano (a stew with up to 13 different types of seafood).

Vincisgrassi

Brodetto Marchigiano

For more about the cuisine of Le Marche see this web site: http://www.knowital.com/lemarche/

My Top 5 Places in Each Region of Le Marche
Le Marche is divided into five provinces. Here is a list of my favourite attractions in each province (of the ones I’ve seen to date, since first visiting in 1995) and there are so many more places that I haven't seen yet! Of course this list is highly subjective – so please let me know which attractions you would recommend.

Urbino - Palazzo Ducale
Photo credit: Dean Ayres

Province of Pesaro & Urbino -
1. Gradara: A medieval fortress, which was the setting for Dante’s Inferno.
2. Urbino & nearby Urbania: A Renaissance jewel, the birthplace of Raphael.
3. Pesaro: The birthplace of Rossini, Annual Opera Festival.
4. San Leo: This spectacular ancient town on a rocky outcrop is a landmark for miles around.
5. Fano: City of Art, beautiful piazza, chic shops, and a huge marina.
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Monte Conero Coast - Ancona Province
(Le Due Sorelle - Sirolo)
photo credit: Marck Wells

Province of Ancona –
1. Genga: The Frassasi Caves
2. Loreto (and nearby Porto Recanati): Important place of pilgrimage for the Virgin Mary.
3. Jesi: The hills surrounding Jesi produce the well known Verdicchio and some excellent red wines such as Rosso Conero and Lacrima di Morro d’Alba are also produced in the area.
4. Monte Conero Coast & National Park and nearby Sirolo: magnificent coastline and splendid bays.
5. Fabriano: Famous the world over for its production of the finest art and writing papers.
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Sferisterio di Macerata

Province of Macerata –
1. Macerata: It is a truly magical experience to attend the opera on a warm summer's night in the 4,500 seat Sferisterio arena with candles flickering in the darkness and stars twinkling overhead.
2. Treia: Known for hosting an unusual Renaissance ball game and a fantastic cooking festival in mid-May.
3. Recanati: Birthplace of Giacomo Leopardi.
4. Cingoli: Hill-town surrounded by forests, with a sweeping panorama to the Adriatic.
5. Appignano di Macerata: Surrounded by amazing scenery and known for its furniture and pottery.
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Torre di Palme - Fermo
Photo credit: Giuseppe Desideri

Province of Fermo – (new province since 2009)
1. Moresco: You can find many castles and churches with frescoes here.
2. Fermo: Town with many historic attractions.
3. Torre di Palme: A visit to the romantic Il Galeone Osteria is a must.
4. Porto San Giorgio: An ancient fishing port.
5. Porto Sant’Elpidio: Beautiful coastal town.
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Grottamare - Ascoli province

Province of Ascoli –

1. Ascoli Piceno: Perhaps the most elegant town in Le Marche. Interesting food and architectural gems can be found in this relatively undiscovered medieval town.

2. Grottamare: Golden sands and pine trees.

3. Cupra Marittima: Picturesque seaside resort with a unique shell museum.

4. Sibillini National Park: Winter sports and ancient mountain passes.

5. San Benedetto del Tronto: The second most important fishing port in Italy.

Map of Le Marche with clickable places to visit courtesy of the Le Marche Tourist Dept can be seen here:

http://www.le-marche.com/Marche/html/maps.htm

Have you been to Le Marche? What do you think are must-see places there?

Angelo Recchi is a personal guide for Le Marche and organizes private tours. On his informative blog http://www.angelorecchi.com/ you can also find lots of great travel information for the region.

Moreno Moretti organizes exciting activity holidays in Le Marche: truffle hunting, vespa and classic car tours, hiking in the Sibillini Mountains, visiting wine cellars, taking cooking classes, quad biking etc. For more details have a look at his great website Le Marche Holiday!

Piazza del Popolo - Ascoli Piceno

2010-11-16T10:15:00.050Z

When I first entered Piazza del Popolo, the beauty of the surrounding buildings took my breath away. This large square in the heart of Ascoli Piceno (see map) paved with gleaming travertine and flanked by Renaissance porticoes, is the setting for the city's finest buildings - the Palazzo dei Capitani, the Church of San Francesco and a line of lovely colonnaded stores (the Loggia dei Mercanti).

Piazza del Popolo - the heart of Ascoli Piceno

Piazza del Popolo- The People’s Square - is the place where everyone gathers to meet, to watch, eat, shop and take their evening stroll, the passeggiata. There are many restaurants here serving local cuisine at reasonable prices. Another wonderful thing about this piazza and nearby Piazza Arringo, is that they are traffic free zones so you don’t have to worry about a car or a scooter startling you as you stroll around. This gives the town a very special ambience of tranquility and serenity and makes it magical by both day and night.

View of Sibillini hills from Piazza del Popolo

Surrounding the town are the Sibillini hills and only thirty minutes away is the beach at San Benedetto del Tronto, making it a perfect location, well serviced by public transport. It is a thriving town with a well-preserved historic centre. Its pretty side streets are like warrens, inviting you to explore them. Everyone we met was really friendly. For example, when we entered Palazzo dei Capitani, the woman at the desk offered to give us a guided tour. The façade of this building has a sculpted portal with a monument to Pope Paul III and a beautiful large stone clock. Inside she showed us the pretty three-tiered Renaissance courtyard surrounded by arcades, the seat of council on the first floor and an underground archeological route with Roman ruins below.

Palazzo dei Capitani

View of Loggia dei Mercanti from Palazzo dei Capitani

Our friend Stefano suggested that we have a caffe corretto all’anisetta in the adjacent building, the famous Caffè Anisetta Meletti.

Anisetta is a sweet, delicious aniseed-flavoured liqueur. It gave us a warm feeling as we sat beneath the frescoed porticoes with elegant arches and watched the action in the square. The service was very attentive, but not intrusive. This Café has been featured in many films, commercials and photo shoots.

Caffe Anisetta Meletti - Piazza del Popolo

Caffe corretto all'anisetta

In business since 1907, the interior retains its Art Deco style, with rich, warm woodwork and a décor that takes you back in time. I was especially drawn to the round Carrara marble topped tables with scenes from films that were set in this café, the most famous of which is possibly

‘Alfredo, Alfredo’ (1972) starring Dustin Hoffman.

A scene from 'I Delfini' (1960)
Left to right: Anna-Maria Ferrero, Gerard Blain, Claudia Cardinale

Tabletops in Caffe Meletti

Next we went to the Church of San Francesco at the top of the square. It has three gothic portals sculpted from travertine and two bell-towers. Inside, the stained-glass windows have different stories to tell as they filter light throughout the interior. In the left nave is a crucifix that miraculously survived a fire and is reported to have spilled blood twice.

Interior of Chiesa di San Francesco

Last but not least, the Café Lorenz to the left of the church sells takeaway stuffed olives, a speciality of the region called “Olive all’Ascolana”. I usually find green olives quite bitter but was encouraged to try these and discovered they were surprisingly delicious! They are large green Picene olives, stuffed with mixed meats, usually pork and veal, breaded, deep fried and served hot. You can also find these in Piazza Arringo at a vendor named Migliori.

Takeaway 'Olive all'Ascolana'

In the opening scene from the film 'I Delfini' there is a marvellous panorama of Ascoli Piceno followed by atmospheric shots of Piazza del Popolo and the exterior of Caffe Anisetta Meletti.

I hope that between this and my previous post, I’ve given you enough reasons to take a day trip to amazing Ascoli Piceno.

A Day Trip to Ascoli Piceno, Le Marche

2010-10-31T21:21:00.062Z

We visited the stunning medieval town of Ascoli Piceno (see map) in Le Marche on the first Sunday in August, which luckily for us, coincided with their annual celebration of the Quintana. The Quintana is a historical medieval jousting tournament held on the feast day of Sant’Emidio, the town’s patron saint. When we arrived it looked as if we had stepped onto a film set, as we were transported back to another era. Hundreds of townspeople, dressed in full ceremonial 15th century costume, colourful flag-throwers (sbandieratori) and trumpeters marched past us along the main street to a steady drumbeat. There was a real carnival atmosphere in the town.

Piazza Arringo was their destination. This huge travertine-paved piazza, that shines like marble, is absolutely breathtaking and surrounded by magnificent architecture. A religious procession followed, in which the statue of Sant’Emidio was carried on the back of a cart drawn by two oxen to the Cathedral of Saint Emidio.

Statue of Sant'Emidio being transported to the Cathedral

Piazza Arringo - Cathedral of Saint Emidio with Baptistry of Saint John to its left

Beautiful interior of the Cathedral of Saint Emidio

Masterpiece by Carlo Crivelli in the Cathedral of St Emidio

Detail of ceiling in Cathedral of St Emidio

At both ends of this piazza are pretty twin fountains, depicting dragons, seahorses and a dolphin like figure on the top. In Piazza Arringo you will also find the Municipal Art Gallery La Pinacoteca Civica, with one of the richest collections of religious paintings in Italy, including works by Carlo Crivelli, Titian, Tintoretto and Guido Reni.

Fontana di Piazza Arringo

Six knights came by with the banners of their districts displayed behind them. What we didn’t realise at the time, was that the jousting tournament (La Quintana) was going to take place in the local stadium after the procession. The six knights ride a course one after the other trying to hit an effigy of a warrior. Strength and agility are necessary for the knight to win the palio or grand prize

Knight of Porta Solestia

Once the excitement of the parade was over we strolled around the charming piazza admiring the elegant buildings. We got a glimpse of the rest of this beautiful town from the quaint narrow side streets. I would have loved to have had more time to explore its many alleyways, bridges, pretty shops underneath the porticoes and its many towers. Ascoli Piceno is also known as the 'town of 100 towers' although there are 'only' 50 of them left today.

The Twin Towers of Ascoli in Piazza Sant'Agostino

Since the late 1300s, competitions for flag-throwing and archery take place during weekends in July with the main event, the Quintana, held in August. For the citizens of Ascoli Piceno these festivals are the expression of a rich history inextricably linked to their territory. Many of the town’s population of 51,000 participate in these events which connect them to age-old traditions and every detail of these celebrations is orchestrated to perfection. I felt privileged to have witnessed this fascinating ceremony. Even without this impressive festival, Ascoli Piceno is a very captivating town and well worth visiting at any time of the year.

Piazza del Popolo nearby, is surrounded by magnificent buildings such as the Palazzo dei Capitani, the Loggia dei Mercanti, the Gothic church of San Francesco and the famous Caffè Anisetta Meletti. There is so much more to see in this piazza alone, so I will leave that for the next post. One day is just not enough to experience all of the wonders of Ascoli Piceno!

Map of Ascoli Piceno
How to get to Ascoli Piceno by car, bus or train
Hotels in Ascoli Piceno

The Amazing Caves of Le Marche - Le Grotte di Frasassi

2010-09-27T10:34:00.033+01:00

From Milan we took the Eurostar train to Ancona; it was a very comfortable journey of 3½ hours.We stayed with friends in Appignano for five marvellous days last month. We absolutely love the Le Marche region too. I believe that every region in Italy has its own distinct landscape, customs and cuisines and this is what makes it so wonderful.

Early one morning our friends drove us to visit the famous caves of Le Marche - Le Grotte di Frasassi. It was a drive of about 40 minutes from where we were based.

Click map to enlarge

The scenery along the way was typical of the gorgeous Le Marche interior: undulating hills cultivated with sunflowers, olive trees and various crops.

Small villages perched on hilltops dot the landscape.

Travelling further inland, the spectacular Gorge of Frasassi appeared before us.

In contrast to most of Le Marche, Frasassi is geared up for tourists. We were surprised to see so many food and souvenir stalls surrounding the large car park in the village of San Vittore on the outskirts of Genga, where the ticket office is also located. At first the price of €15.50 per adult seemed a bit expensive, but it also includes transport to the caves by shuttle bus, a guided tour, entrance to the paleontological museum in San Vittore and the Art History and Territory Museum in Genga – hence a full day out.

The Grotte di Frasassi which extends for 35km is the largest underground cave system in Europe. This subterranean world of calcareous rock formations dates back 180 million years! These incredible caves were first opened to the public since 1974 and have since been visited by over ten million people. The temperature inside is 14C but there was 90 percent humidity so it didn’t feel cold. It was actually a welcome relief from the 35C temperature outside.

There is about an hour of easy walking through a maze of spacious pathways. Magnificent ‘rooms’ which reveal nature’s masterpieces in this strange and beautiful underground world are given the most ingenious names: The majestic Ancona Abyss, The Infinite Hall, The Hall of Candles, The Obelisk and The Emerald Lake.

The Hall of Candles (my favourite)

Small sparkling lakes with pools of clear still water, extravagantly fanciful stalactites, towering columns of stalagmites and alabaster spears adorn these caverns. The caves are further enchanced by the skilled use of soft theatrical lighting. One and a half km of this crystalline wonderland is open to the general public. It also includes the awesome Grotta Grande del Vento (The Great Cave of the Wind), Europe's largest single cavern. You could choose to have a guided tour in Italian, English, Spanish or German. The English guide we had was excellent and very informative, pointing out with her torch the natural sculptures that could be seen in the rock formations that we probably wouldn’t have noticed otherwise.

A visit to the magical world of the Grotte di Frasassi is a unique and incredible experience. Both adults and children will be fascinated by this extraordinary, hidden, enchanting world.

For further information see: http://www.showcaves.com/english/it/showcaves/Frasassi.html

Prices as from May 2010:
Admission – Adults €15.50
Children 6-14yrs €10.00
Children under 6 - Free
Telephone +39 0732 97211

Bach Performance at Santa Caterina, Lake Maggiore

2010-09-05T14:24:00.047+01:00

Santa Caterina, Lago Maggiore

We’ve been visiting Stresa on Lake Maggiore each year for the past five years; to me it’s a real paradise on earth. After reading Dana’s inspiring post last August, we timed this year’s summer holiday to coincide with the Bach recital at Santa Caterina on July 31st. Two of our friends who live just outside of Milan joined us. It was their first visit to the heavenly setting of Santa Caterina and they were equally fascinated by it. It is the perfect location for this musical evening - tranquil, stunning and with a deep sense of calm.

Every summer (since 1999), for two nights only, the enchanting Hermitage of Santa Caterina is the venue for the Bach cello solo suites, performed by a different cellist each year. This July was the turn of Alban Gerhardt, a remarkably talented musician. It was a glorious, warm evening; the weather could not have been more perfect.

Dana kindly took this photo of us at the Stresa imbarcadero

The sun began to set behind the mountains as we crossed the lake.
(The boat trip was included in the price of the ticket to
the recital).

The approach to the Hermitage

The Hermitage of Santa Caterina looked dramatic
bathed in golden sunlight and set against the rock face.

We had time to admire the recently restored frescoes both outside
and inside the richly decorated monastery.

Once Alban Gerhardt started to play, the magnificent music seemed to flow through him and enthralled his captivated audience. I was mesmerized watching and listening to him and can understand while they call these ‘Musical Meditations’. He played suites nos. 3, 4 and 5 on the Saturday night, although not in that order. He said that suite no. 5 was a bit solemn so he left suite no. 4 till the end because he wanted us to leave feeling uplifted. The setting was warm and intimate with rich acoustics and the music was so deeply moving and hauntingly beautiful it seemed to pour in your soul. He went on to play three encores to rapturous applause from his appreciative audience. His impressive performance was impeccable and evoked such wondrous feelings; it was a truly amazing experience.

As we walked back to the boat, the pathway was lined with bowls
of citronella candles - so romantic.

As happened last year, the night of the performance coincided with a dazzling fireworks display on nearby Lake Mergozzo. It was breathtaking to watch from the boat and contributed to the magic of the whole evening. The performance of Bach at Santa Caterina was definitely the highlight of our visit to Stresa this summer and had a profound effect on me.

After the event, we were fortunate to bump into Alban Gerhardt in a small side street in Stresa. He said that he had really enjoyed performing in this uniquely special venue and hadn’t heard anything about Santa Caterina until he was approached by the Stresa Festival.

The music festival season ends today, but you could start planning your special evening for next summer. All of the events are held in exquisite locations and it is truly a great experience! If you like classical music, bookmark the Stresa Festival home page for more details about the exquisite musical performances around beautiful Lake Maggiore.

http://www.stresafestival.eu/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4F0_7TXSVNU

The Sacred Mountain of Varese

2010-08-24T20:07:00.037+01:00

Are you living in Milan or going on holiday to the Milan area? Want to escape the hustle and bustle of the city for a day? The Sacro Monte di Varese may be the place for you! Located just 55km north of Milan in the heart of the Campo dei Fiori National Park, this is an ideal spot in which to relax, breathe in some fresh air, get a little exercise and admire some spectacular architecture, works of art and stunning scenery. The best day to visit is on a Sunday…read on to find out why…

You don’t have to be religious to appreciate the beauty and art that abounds in Varese. Being there is an adventure for both the body and the spirit. Earlier this month as part of a three week whirlwind tour of Lombardia, Piemonte, Le Marche, Abruzzo and Emilia Romagna, we spent and afternoon in Varese.

Chapel on Sacro Monte di Varese

It is easy enough to walk up the impressive panoramic slopes of Monte Velete along the wide paved winding 2.5km path with a gradual climb of 300 metres. You are rewarded by the beauty of the buildings, the dazzling art and remarkable landscape with spectacular views overlooking Lake Varese and the plains and valleys of the area. The atmosphere is one of peace and serenity. A new surprise awaits you around each turn in the path.

Impressive triumphal arches separate five groups of chapels

You pass by 14 beautiful chapels along the way and although you cannot enter any of them, you can view the amazing interiors through the windows. Each chapel is embellished with richly decorated frescoes, murals and life-size painted terracotta figures theatrically representing a scene from the Mysteries of the Rosary. They were created by some of the finest painters and sculptors of the 1600s, including Mazzucchelli, Prestinari, Nuvolone and Ghiandone.

Interiors of chapels of Sacro Monte di Varese

The three arches, three fountains and all of the chapels were designed by Lombardian architect Giuseppe Bernascone and were built in the style of the Borromean era. Work on the project started in 1604 and was completed 94 years later. The chapels are all different in shape and combine beautifully with the stunning natural surroundings. Walking along the path you will be equally enchanted by the panoramic views of the lakes, the valley, and the Art Nouveau style villas found along this ancient path. In several spots there are open galleries from which you have breathtaking views of the plains of Lombardy, the Po valley, the forests and the Lakes of Varese, Comabbio and Monate.

Open Gallery Sacro Monte di Varese

At the end of the journey, the pretty mountain village of Santa Maria Del Monte welcomes you with inviting restaurants, many with panoramic terraces that overlook the valley. The final chapel (containing The Coronation of Mary) is found inside the Sanctuary of Santa Maria in the village.

On reaching the summit in Vellone, I was excited at the prospect of taking the funicular railway back down, but was disappointed to discover that in August it only operates on a Sunday! (We were there on a Friday). Nevertheless, walking back down wasn’t as difficult as I thought it would be and took half the time too.

The Sacro Monte di Varese is one of 9 World Heritage Sites in the Piedmont and Lombardy area. I first learned about the existence of these Sacri Monti through my friend Dana’s wonderful blog Stresa Sights. To find out more about the other ones, check out her fascinating post The Sacri Monti Near Stresa. So if at any time in the future you are in Milan or any of the nearby areas, don’t miss the chance to explore the beautiful Sacro Monte di Varese. It is definitely worth a visit!

Open all year round.
Entry – Free
For how to get there see: http://www.sacromonte.it/info_sacromonte.html

The Little Church of Miracles -- Lake Scanno

2010-07-08T19:32:00.017+01:00

La Chiesa della Madonna del Lago, Scanno

La Chiesa della Madonna del Lago perched over Lake Scanno is both unusual and spectacular. Inside the small, charming church there are a few pews in front of a splendid altar which looks stunning set against the bare rock. The ceiling is an exquisite dome of blue and gold and features a dove surrounded by twelve heavenly angels. In each of the corners is a trompe l’oeil representation of each of the four evangelists.

Ceiling of Chiesa della Madonna del Lago

There is a local story about the origins of this church. Before it was built, the people here had to climb over a dangerous piece of rock in order to visit the villages to the south because the road was too narrow for horses to pass through. One day, in order to protect travellers, someone placed a statue of Mary on the rock.

La Madonnina - Lago di Scanno

After the statue was put there, miracles started to happen - so they decided to build a chapel on the spot and the statue was inserted into the backdrop of the striking altar. Since 1702, the chapel has seen many alterations and has eventually been turned into this enchanting church, with a road tunnel underneath.

Drawing from the 1800s of the side of La Chiesa della Madonna del Lago

The side of the church as it looks today

Postcard showing local women of Scanno in traditional costume

To see a magnificent photo of the gorgeous altar and read more about the history of this church, have a look at Tatiana’s post - The Church of the Lady of the Lake on her lovely Italian Slow Walks blog.

Lake Scanno

2010-06-09T18:39:00.041+01:00

One glorious morning in August our friend Gianluigi drove us to beautiful Lake Scanno (Lago di Scanno) for the day. The journey from Sulmona to Scanno on the rocky mountainous road through the Sagittario Gorge was really spectacular but I was glad to be a passenger and not a driver with roads that looked like this!

He had to negotiate this narrow serpentine route with its blind hairpin bends, while we admired the magnificent panorama. Passing through this area the scenery was truly breathtaking. At a height of 1,300m above sea level in the village of Frattura, the road opened out and we had our first glimpse of the splendid lake. From this vantage point you can see the whole of the gorgeous heart shaped lake.

Lake Scanno is in the province of L’Aquila and is the largest natural lake in Abruzzo. When you get closer to the shoreline, the color of the water is quite striking – it takes on a turquoise, almost emerald green hue. Lago di Scanno has been awarded Blue Flag status for several years and this is evident in the clean, crystal clear waters.

When we stepped out of the car we took in the thin, fresh mountain air. This enchanting place is beneficial for body, mind and spirit; the idyllic area amazes and inspires you to dream and relax. Lake Scanno itself is located at an altitude of 922m above sea level between Montanga Grande and Monte Genzana, so the temperature is very pleasant in the summer. The surrounding towns of Scanno and Villalago are situated in a wooded area of Montagna Grande.

Half of the lake is protected by the Abruzzo National Park and in the other half fishing (mostly of perch and trout) is controlled by the municipality of Villalago. There are plenty of ducks on the lake and other birdlife here is largely composed of peregrine falcons, hawks, owls and eagles. We admired some of them soaring impressively overhead.

The magical, sparking waters of the lake invite swimmers, rowers, canoeists and pedalo riders. We spent the afternoon exploring the lake in one of these pedalos.

We took turns pedalling and it was a really fun way to spend a few hours and work up an appetite for our picnic. There are also several nice restaurants in this tranquil, romantic setting - one of which is Trattoria sul Lago.
http://www.hotelscanno.it/Details/Trattoria-Sul-Lago.html

A lovely promenade and cycle track (5.4km along the ring road) surrounds the lake and you can also rent out four-wheeled bicycles like these ones.

You can also hire horses and go riding in the surrounding mountains. In winter this is a lovely skiing area. Lago di Scanno is a wonderful, magical place that has left a lasting impression on me. If you are ever in the area, I highly recommend that you include it in your itinerary. It is the most popular lake in the tourist region of Abruzzo!

You can read the story behind this charming church at the edge of the lake here:
The Little Church of Miracles - Lake Scanno

Picture of heart shaped lake courtesy of http://www.tassidocodaresort.com/

Gabriele D'Annunzio -- Abruzzese Poet

2010-05-09T14:28:00.061+01:00

I’m an admirer of the poetry of the Abruzzese poet, novelist and dramatist Gabriele D’Annunzio. He was born in Pescara, Abruzzo on March 12, 1863 and is one of the main Italian poets of the 20th century. Gabriele D’Annunzio’s birthplace in Pescara is open to the public and nine rooms on the first floor of the house have been turned into a museum dedicated to his life and works. It is well worth a visit and you can find it at:

Casa Natale di Gabriele D’Annunzio

Corso Gabriele Manthonè, 116 Pescara

Open 9:00 - 13:30 every day except Monday

You'll recognize the building when you see the flags on the balcony above the doorway.

The first five rooms are still furnished with beautiful old pieces and the walls have their original paintings.

Bedroom of Gabriele D'Annunzio and his brother

In the corner of each room look out for a caption from D'Annunzio's poem Il Nottorno, which describes the settings, objects and people the poet loved.

In the sixth room are some of the poet's suits and accessories; in the seventh are his letters, documents and some of his original editons. In the eight room there are two casts of the poet's hands and face taken on the day of his death. Another room is arranged with panels giving information about D'Annunzio's life along with extraordinary old photographs.

Another section of the museum is dedicated to the poet's wardrobe: his suits, coats, uniforms, hats and accessories. He had a unique, elegant and eccentric style!

Listening to Italian poetry helps me to understand the language better as it is usually spoken at a slower pace. D’Annunzio’s poems include sensuous lines with a sublime musicality that paints pictures with simple sentences.

"The Rain in the Pinewood" is a favorite of mine. In this poem the poet walks with his wife, Hermione, and invites her to listen to the melody of nature as the summer raindrops fall on the foliage in the wood.

Here is a sample verse:

The Rain in the Pinewood             La Pioggia nel Pineto

Hush…                                       Taci…
On the edges of the woods          Sulle soglie del bosco
I can’t hear human words              Non odo, parole
That you say,                             Che dici umane;
But I hear newer words                 Ma odo parole più nuove
Spoken by droplets                    Che parlano gocciole
And leaves far away.                    E foglie lontane.
Listen…                                      Ascolta…
Rain falls from the                        Piove dalle
Scattered clouds.                         Nuvole sparse.
Rain falls from the parched,            Piove sulle tamerici
Burnt-out tamarisks.                    Salmastre ed arse,
It rains on the scaly,                     Piove sui pini,
Bristling pines,                             Scagliosi ed irti,
It rains on the divine myrtles,         Piove sui mirti divini,
On the broom-shrubs                    Sulle ginestre fulgenti
Gleaming with clustered flowers,     Di fiori accolti,

Orpheus Leading Eurydice From the Underworld by Jean-Baptiste-Camille Corot, 1861

On the junipers                            Sui ginepri
Thick with fragrant berries.            Folti di coccole aulenti.
Rain falls on our sylvan                 Piove sui nostri volti
faces,                                        Silvani,
It rains on our bare                       Piove sulle nostre mani
Hands,                                        Ignude,
On our light                                 Sui nostri vestimenti
Clothes,                                      Leggieri,
On the fresh thoughts                  Sui freschi pensieri
That our soul uncovers                 Che l’anima schiude,
New,                                          Novella,
On the beautiful fairytale               Sulla favola bella
That yesterday enchanted you,      Che ieri ti illuse
That today enchants me,               Che oggi m’illude…
O Hermione…                             O Ermione…

Have a listen to this YouTube clip to hear the poem read in full and with feeling by Roberto Herlitzka. In the background is a gorgeous piece from the soundtrack of the movie Amélie and beautiful images accompany the words …

Which of Gabriele D'Annunzio's poems do you like?

The town of Capestrano, Abruzzo

2010-04-15T18:26:00.079+01:00

The dramatically perched hilltown of Capestrano

Capestrano is a stunningly picturesque town of only 960 people in the province of L’Aquila in the Abruzzo region. It encapsulates everything I love about small town Italy. The people there are so friendly, especially to visitors who are few and far between. Hospitality, warmth and time is something they have in abundance. They make you feel so welcome and are proud to show off their area. It has wonderful restaurants, a fabulous gelateria and café called Bar Tagliente in the main piazza, churches, a monastery, an abbey, a gorgeous lake and a beautiful lofty towered castle atop the hill overlooking the town! It is set in a perfect location, 40km west of Chieti, on the edge of the Gran Sasso National Park, 160km east of Rome and only a 25 minute drive from the Adriatic coast.

Wide angle view of Capestrano

Photo credit: Giuliano Bianchini - Flickr

From its elevated position, this dramatically perched hilltown, 500m above sea level, gives spectacular views down the striking Tirino valley, dotted with aged olive and almond trees. The town is known not only for the Capestrano Warrior, but also for being the birthplace of the famous Franciscan monk Saint John of Capestrano (1386-1456) after whom the town was named. Incidentally, the town is twinned with San Juan Capistrano in California. (They spell it a little differently). In walking distance from the pretty main piazza is the magnificent monastery of St Francis erected by Saint John of Capestrano dating back to 1400.

Photo of the St Francis Monastery from Wikipedia

The majestic Capestrano castle was built in the 13th century, next to the Tirino River and the Abbey of St. Peter ad Oratorium. I’ve translated some of the history relating to the castle from the website www.comunedicapestrano.it. The first document that refers to the name of Capestrano dates back to 1284, when King Charles I of Sicily gave the castle to Riccardo d’Acquaviva, the marquis of Capestrano. In 1462 the castle passed on to Antonio Piccolomini, nephew of Pope Pius II, who enlarged the castle with new towers and battlements. By 1579 the castle was known by its official title ‘Piccolomini Castle’. Then it was sold to the Grand Duke of Tuscany and in 1743 was owned by the King of Naples. In 1860 it passed on to the Savoys.

Capestrano Castle

These days, Capestrano castle is the headquarters for the mayor of the town and as a result it’s very well preserved and is the site for many of Capestrano’s annual festivals. Admission is free – which I think is unusual in Italy. My friend Gianluigi once quipped that: ‘Only the air in Italy is free’!

Piazza del Mercato, Capestrano

The elegant baroque ‘Piazza del Mercato’ has lovely little shops, restaurants, a beautiful parish church - Santa Maria della Pace - and even an Irish pub called The Highlander! This scenic town has an interesting juxtaposition of medieval and renaissance architecture.

Here is a link to a picasaweb album with some more of my Capestrano photos.

I took my pictures on a balmy August evening as the sun was throwing its golden mellow light across the rolling landscape and the soft shadows of the buildings were beginning to lengthen. We had a lovely stroll around the cobbled, steep medieval streets with their narrow winding alleyways, before touring the charming castle, monastery and its beautiful frescoed cloister.

Statue of St John of Capestrano and frescoes in the cloister

In the vicinity of Capestrano you can also visit the charming Romanesque church of San Pietro ad Oratorium (1100) and admire the sparkling, clear waters of pretty Lago di Capo d’Acqua.

Recommended restaurants in the area are: Ristorante San Giovanni in the main Piazza del Mercato and in the nearby village of Preciano, Ristorante La Sorgente, Via Presciani, 36 (which serves trout and freshwater shrimp from the Tirino River).

*Update: For a more detailed and interesting account of Piccolomini Castle and its history have a look at Tatiana's post on her Italian Slow Walks blog - a beautiful blog with wonderful photos and descriptions of special places in Abruzzo.

** Another interesting post about Capestrano with great photos can be found on Bodach's excellent blog About Abruzzo.

Anyone who is fascinated by art, history, architecture, beautiful landscape, regional foods and folk traditions will love this idyllic town of Capestrano! To end, here is a little slideshow that I made of the town:

How to get to Capestrano:
By Bus: ARPA L'Aquila/Pescara, (only a few times during the day)
By Car: A24, exit L'Aquila, or A25, exit Bussi, then SS 17 L'Aquila-Pescara

Mid-August Lunch in Capestrano

2009-07-24T14:18:00.077+01:00

Italians have perfected the art of eating all'aperto. I think that food eaten outdoors always tastes so much better. Our friends have relatives who live on a farm in Capestrano in the fertile valley of the Tirino River (about 30k west of Chieti) and we had a most memorable al fresco lunch there to celebrate Ferragosto. This post demonstates the generous hospitality of the people of Capestrano. Here’s how it went:

A small three-wheeled vehicle known as an Ape (pronounced ah-pay), along with a tractor and trailer provided transportation from the farmhouse for the food, water, wine, extra chairs, (lovely) tablecloths…and the children! They chose a perfect spot for the lunch under the shade of a large old olive tree, surrounded by the majestic Gran Sasso mountains, the crops and the vineyard. The trailer was used as an extension to the main table as there were 18 of us. We helped set the table and lit citronella candles to keep the flying bugs away.Ubaldo is a small farmer and also tends a vineyard where he produces enough wine for everyday use for his family and friends. One of the wines for the lunch was a crisp, white Trebbiano that went well with the starters. The other was a robust red Montepulciano d’Abruzzo that complimented the meat dish perfectly. Everything we ate was either grown on the farm or homemade (apart from the rice salad that our friends brought along). The people of Abruzzo have ancient food traditions; their dishes are simple and characterized by genuine foods, rich in taste and aroma.

For the antipasto we had grilled sweet corn on the cob. (You can see the cornfields in the background.) The primo consisted of the rice salad, with bruschetta drenched in homemade olive oil alongside grilled red peppers. The home-grown tomatoes were so flavorsome.This was followed by a traditional Abruzzo meat dish called ‘arrosticini’ for the secondo. It is probably one of the simplest and tastiest examples of Italian-style grilled pieces of lamb on skewers. You eat it in your hands and use your teeth to slide the meat off the skewer piece by piece. A special long narrow grill called a ‘fornacella’ was used to cook the lamb. It is a local invention that can only be found in Abruzzo. (Arrosticini can also be cooked on a regular charcoal grill.)To cleanse our palates after the meat we had a delicious slice of chilled watermelon. The dolce consisted of traditional Abruzzo type waffles called Pizzelle. They have a flower design instead of a squared pattern and have the excellent light taste of a crispy vanilla flavored biscuit. Two of them were sandwiched together with Nutella and they were relished by both children and adults alike. To me, one of the nicest things about long warm summer days is being able to enjoy good food, good wine and good company -- all'aperto!

Update:
After writing this blog post I discovered an Italian movie about the same subject and I just had to see it; but what a very different pranzo it was! If you like Italian comedies you will love this one. It was absolutely delightful!

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Pranzo di Ferragosto in Abruzzo
Gli italiani hanno perfezionato l’arte di mangiare al fresco. Penso che quando il cibo e' mangiato all’aperto il gusto è sempre migliore. I nostri amici hanno dei parenti che abitano in una fattoria a Capestrano nella valle del fiume Tirino (circa 30k a ovest di Chieti)e abbiamo avuto lì un pranzo di ferragosto indimenticabile. Ecco com’è andata…

Un piccolo veicolo a tre ruote chiamata un Ape ed un trattore con rimorchio, trasportavano dalla casa colonica il cibo, l’acqua, il vino, le sedie, le (bellissime) tovaglie...ed i bambini! Avevano scelto un bel posto sotto l’ombra di un vecchio albero d’ulivo per il pranzo, circondato del maestoso Gran Sasso, i raccolti dei campi ed il vigneto. Il rimorchio era usato come una seconda tavola, perchè eravamo in 18. Aiutavamo ad apparecchiare la tavola ed accendevamo le candele di citronella come insettifugo.
Ubaldo è un piccolo agricoltore che gestisce anche un vigneto dove produce abbastanza vino per l’uso quotidiano della sua famiglia ed i suoi amici. Uno dei vini per il pranzo era un Trebbiano, frizzante e bianco che andava bene con l’antipasto. L’altro vino era un rosso e robusto Montepulciano d’Abruzzo che si completava con la carne perfettamente. Tutto ciò che mangiavamo, proveniva dalla sua fattoria o era fatto a mano (a parte l’insalata di riso che i nostri amici ci portavano). Le montagne abruzzese hanno una gastronomia tanto antica, quanto semplice, caratterizzata da alimentari genuine e piatti ricchi di sapori e profumi.

Per l’antipasto avevamo le pannocchie di mais alla griglia. (Si puo' vedere i campi di grano sullo sfondo.) Il primo era composto dall’insalata di riso con bruschetta inzuppava con l’olio di oliva fatto in casa, e con i pepperoni rossi grigliati. I pomodori locali avevano un gusto meraviglioso. Per il secondo mangiavamo gli ‘arrosticini’; essi sono degli spiedini di carne d’agnello, tipici della cucina tradizionale abruzzese. La preparazione consiste in carne ovina tagliata a tocchetti ed infilata in spiedini, la cui cottura avviene su un braciere dalla caratteristica forma allungata definito ‘fornacella’. Si mangia con le mani e si usano i denti per togliere la carne dallo spiedino. (Si possono arrostire gli arrosticini anche sul barbeque).
(La foto sopra e' da Wikipedia)

Per pulire i palati dopo la carne, mangiavamo una fetta d’anguria servita fresca. Come dolce c’erano le pizzelle, leggeri e croccanti biscotti d’Abruzzzo. Sono ottime dal gusto molto delicato. C’è un disegno di fiori all’esterno. Avevamo due biscotti inseriva con Nutella e li apprezzavano sia i bambini sia gli adulti.

Secondo me, una delle cose più belle dei giorni lunghi e caldi d’estate è di poter godere del buon cibo, del buon vino e della gioia di essere in buona compagnia -- all'aperto!

Transfer of the Warrior of Capestrano to the G8 in l'Aquila

2009-07-04T19:52:00.095+01:00

Visitors to the National Archaeological Museum in Chieti today hoping to see the famous limestone statue of The Warrior of Capestrano (Il Guerriero di Capestrano) were astonished to find that it had been removed from its plinth. The priceless statue was taken from the museum early this morning without the permission of the mayor of Chieti, Francesco Ricci.

This renowned artifact dates from the 6th century BC. I had been researching this statue for my blog post as I was very impressed when I saw it in August 2007. I was astounded to read about its removal, on an Italian news website today. (Primadanoi.it)

This statue was first discovered in 1934 by Michele Castagna, a farmer who was digging in his vineyard near Capestrano. It has since become the recognized symbol of the Abruzzo region. The imposing sculpture standing at 2.09m is believed to be the funeral effigy of King Nevio Pompuledio, leader of the Vestini tribe in Abruzzo.

It has supports on both sides and is mounted on a plinth. The inscription on one of the supports (written in South-Picene dialect) bears his name.

He wears a mask and decorative headgear and is dressed in armor protecting his chest and back: a wide belt encircles his waist; he carries a short sword, knife and axe; he also wears a necklace, armlets and a pair of sandals. He is considered the embodiment of the Italic warrior.

Apparently Silvio Berlusconi wanted this precious masterpiece at the G8 headquarters near l’Aquila as a room decoration to impress Barack Obama and the other world leaders. The G8 is due to take place next week in a police barracks in Coppito near L’Aquila from 8-10 July. The mayor of Chieti announced just yesterday that the warrior wouldn't be moved from the museum, because of the risks of transportation as well as the risk of aftershocks in l'Aquila; but this morning the statue was taken away at 8.30am.

The act of moving an extremely fragile, 2,600 year old statue from a museum just to use as a room adornment seems reckless to me. Why couldn’t they have used a replica? Two perfect copies already exist (made from plaster) one in the Museum of Roman Civilization in Rome and another one in Capestrano castle! Although the original statue appears in good condition, the legs and feet of the warrior are already fragile and in fact metal inserts have been used to repair fractures. The 65cm circular warrior's headgear is detachable, so there is a chance that it may break. The risk of damage to this precious statue is great.

Let’s hope that this old warrior is returned safe and sound as soon as possible to the Archaeological Museum in Chieti…

NATIONAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM OF ABRUZZO
VILLA COMUNALE CHIETI
Tel: +039 0871 331668 – +039 0871 330955.

Opening times: 9-18.30 every day

Admission: 4 Euros; free for under eighteen and over sixty
Free for students and teachers

Photos courtesy of www.musei.abruzzo.it

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Trasferimento del Guerriero di Capestrano al G8.

I visitatori al Museo Archeologico a Chieti che oggi, 4 luglio, hanno voluto ammirare la statua celebrativa del Guerriero di Capestrano sono stati sorpresi di scoprire che la scultura era scomparsa.

L’inestimabile statua di pietra calcare è stata portata via dal museo stamattina presto, senza il permesso del sindaco di Chieti, Francesco Ricci. (Primadanoi.it)

Questa statua, databile del VI secolo AC, fu ritrovata nel 1934 da Michele Castagna, durante i lavori agricoli per l’impianto di una vigna nella località Capestrano. Essa raffigura un guerriero dell’antico popolo italico dei Piceni – il Re Nevio Pompuledio.

In costume militare con le braccia ripiegate sul petto, l’altezza della statua senza la base raggiunge 2,09m. La testa è protetta da un elmo che copre le orecchie e da una maschera sul volto. Porta una spada, ed un pugnale appesi davanti al petto, mentre con la destra regge una piccola ascia. Gli ornamenti sono costituiti da una collana rigida con pendaglio e da bracciali sugli avambracci. Il copricapo, caratteristico con le sue larghe tese (65cm) che lo fanno assomigliare ad un sombrero, è stato interpretato come un elmo da parata.

La figura poggia su un piedistallo ed è sorretta da due pilastrini laterali, sui quali sono incise delle lance. Su un sostegno vi è un’iscrizione in lingua Sud-Picena con il nome del Re Pompuledio. Oggi costituisce un capolavoro di ineguagliabile valore artistico e storico ed e' il simbolo riconosciuto dell’Abruzzo.

Silvio Berlusconi ha voluto avere questa statua come decorazione per la sala del G8. La direttrice del museo a Chieti ha ribadito le sue perlessità sul suo trasferimento a causa della fragilità della statua. La vulnerabilità del reperto è dovuta alla natura delicata della pietra calcare con la quale è stata realizzata, come per i punti di frattura presenti alle gambe e alle caviglie …e all’Aquila i pericoli eventuali del sisma sono ancora in atto…

Oltretutto, era disponibile due copie perfette dell’originale - uno nel museo della Civiltà Romana a Roma e l'altro a Castello Piccolomini, in grado di suscitare altrettanto interesse e ammirazione!

Spero che restituiscano il Guerriero di Capestrano al museo a Chieti al più presto ed in buone condizioni…incrociamo le dita per questo antico guerriero…

La Villa Comunale di Chieti

2009-05-31T15:50:00.064+01:00

A good starting point for a walk around Chieti is the Villa Comunale. It is a beautiful public park designed at the end of the 800’s with gardens on three levels containing perfumed flowerbeds and rare plants. Hundreds of age-old trees create shady avenues: colossal cedars, fragrant limes, poplars, slim plane trees and delicate magnolias. They are home to an important and protected fauna, for example birds such as the wren, the goldcrest, the sparrow and the woodpecker. You may also spot dormice and red squirrels as they scurry between the shrubs. There are two ponds with fish and swans, two artistic fountains, statues, busts and monuments. The main fountain in the middle of Piazzale Mazzini was made in Paris for the occasion of the World Fair of 1890. On hot summer days children play around the basin full of fresh water, while parents or grandparents sit and chat on the wrought iron benches all around. In 1893 this park was opened to the public. There is also a lovely well-equipped playground sheltered beneath a canopy of trees.

In the summer children can also enjoy quaint pony and cart rides around the park. For a light meal, an afternoon coffee or an ice-cream, there is a lovely airy café there called Casina dei Tigli (House of the Limes). In the evenings this place is full of young and old. There is music and laughter and a very lively atmosphere. At the top level of the park you have a wonderful panorama of the southern part of the town with the Majella mountains in the background.

The neoclassical Villa Frigerj is at the top (at first I thought it should be spelled with an 'i' at the end but no it is a j). It is home to the splendid Archeological Museum of Abruzzo which was opened in 1959. It's very tranquil and relaxing here. By the way, Chieti is known as ‘the town of the chamomile’ not because they cultivate it here, but because of the fact that is a quiet locality where rarely anything serious happens. The Abruzzo region has one of Italy’s lowest crime rates.

All the citizens of Chieti feel a strong sense of attachment to the Villa Comunale. They went there as children with their grandparents, then played with their friends. They cycled through the park or went roller-skating; they played basketball there. The park also holds memories of their first loves, school trips, and today as adults they go there with their own children…

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Un buon punto di partenza per una passeggiata intorno a Chieti è la Villa Comunale. È un bellissimo parco pubblico e giardini con profumate aiuole e piante rare sui tre livelli, disegnato alle fine dell’800. Ci sono un centinaio d’alberi secolari creando i viali ombrosi: tigli odorosi e colassali cedri, pioppi, platani snelli e magnolie delicate. A me piacciono molto gli alberi e soprattutto gli alberi in questo parco. Ospitano una fauna importante e protetta, ad esempio gli uccelli come lo scricciolo, il regolo, il passero ed il picchio. I ghiri e gli scoiattoli rossi affrettano il passo tra i cespugli.

C’è un bel parco gioco lì, ben equipaggiato e riparato sotto un baldacchino d’alberi. Anche in estate i bambini possono divertirsi con un affascinate pony e carretto che gira tutt’intorno al parco.

Ci sono due laghetti con pesci e cigni, due fontane artistiche, le statue, i busti ed i monumenti. La fontana principale detta ‘La Fontana Monumentale’ nel centro del Piazzale Mazzini, fu comperata a Parigi in occasione dell’esposizione universale del 1890. Nelle calde sere d’estate i bambini giocano intorno alla vasca piena d’acqua fresca mentre i genitori o i nonni siedono a chiacchierare sulle panchine di ferro brunito.

Se si cerca un caffé o un gelato, si può andare al bel ristorante lì chiamato ‘Casina Dei Tigli’.
È molto tranquillo e rilassante alla Villa Comunale. A proposito, Chieti è nota come ‘la citta della camomilla’ non perché vi si coltiva, ma per il fatto che è una località molto tranquilla dove raramente succede qualcosa di grave.

Sul livello più alto c’è il bellissimo edificio neoclassico della Villa Frigerj, che fu costruito nel 1830. Dal 1959 è sede del Museo Archeologico d’Abruzzo.

Tutti i cittadini di Chieti sentano un forte senso di appartenenza alla villa. Ci sono venuti da bambini con i nonni, e poi con gli amici a giocare, in bici, con i pattini, a pallacanestro. Alla villa ci sono i loro ricordi dei primi amori, di gite scolastiche e oggi come adulti ci vengono con i loro figli…

The town of Chieti/La Citta' di Chieti

2009-04-30T21:19:00.128+01:00

Photo credit: Fabrizio Costa -- Chieti Centro Storico

Feeling refreshed after an hours rest, we were ready to explore the town of Chieti. It is considered to be the main town of culture in Abruzzo, along with l’Aquila.

Chieti (see map) is a charming, elegant hilltop town with ancient streets and alleys, situated on the right bank of the Pescara River at 330 mt above sea level. It is one of the oldest towns in Italy. It has a population of about 56,500 (as of July 2008). The economy of the town is traditionally based on agriculture (cereals, vineyards and olive groves). It is enriched by traditions of handicrafts of artistic lace and beautiful ceramics.

From the hilltop part of the town called ‘High Chieti’ you can visit historical sites, churches and monuments going back to the Roman era and some from Norman times.

The top ten sights in the town of Chieti are:

1.   The Cathedral of St Justin
2.   Remains of Roman Temples
3.   Church of St Francis
4.   Costantino Barbella Art Gallery
5.   Chiesa di San Domenico
6.   Archeological Museum - La Civitella
7.   The Amphitheatre
8.   Teatro Marrucino
9.   The Villa Comunale
10. National Archeological Museum

The Cathedral of Saint Justin (dating back to the 9th century)

Remains of Roman Temples (2nd century BC)

The church of St Francis (13th century Baroque style)

Interior of church of St Francis

The Costantino Barbella Art Gallery

The modern Civitella Museum beside the well preserved Roman Amphitheatre is well worth visiting. In the summer they hold outdoor concerts here. There are also the remains of Roman Thermal Baths (currently under restoration). Further digs in Chieti have uncovered the core of Teate - the main town of the Marrucini, an ancient Italic tribe that became a Roman colony in the first century BC.

Roman Amphitheatre Chieti

And then there's my favourite, La Villa Comunale –- a beautiful park which is also home to the National Archeological Museum of Abruzzo.

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Ci siamo sentiti rinfrescati dopo un’ora di riposo, e siamo stati pronti per esplorare la città di Chieti. È considerata, insieme all’Aquila, la città della culture in Abruzzo.

Chieti, con una popolazione di circa 56,500 abitanti (luglio 2008) sorge su un colle a circa 330 metri sulla destra del fiume Pescara. Chieti è una delle città più antiche d’Italia.

L’economia della città, tradizionalmente agricola (cereali, uva ed olive), si è arricchita tramite un fiorente artigianato delle belle ceramiche e dei merletti.

Dal colle che dà sulla città, detto ‘Chieti Alta’, si possono visitare siti storici, chiese e monumenti, risalenti all’epoca romana e quella dei normanni.

Fra tutti:

• La Cattedrale di San Giustino
• I Tempietti Romani
• La Chiesa di San Francesco
• La Pinacoteca Costantino Barbella
• Museo Archeologico - La Civitella
• L'Anfiteatro Romano e le Terme Romane
• Chiesa di San Domenico
• Il Teatro Marrucino
• La Villa Comunale -- un bellissimo parco con
• Il Museo Archeologico Nazionale d’Abruzzo.

Terme Romane Chieti

http://www.abruzzocitta.it/aziendecomuni/chieti/immagini.html

How to get to Chieti: Buses and trains leave you at Chieti Scalo down in the valley, from where it's a ten-minute bus journey up the hill to Chieti proper - 5km away. The no.1 bus stops near the Cathedral.

The Siesta

2009-03-16T21:02:00.021Z

The Siesta
Van Gogh 1890

After enjoying a delicious lunch of several courses it was ‘siesta time’. Everyone retired to their rooms for a daytime nap - also called il riposo or un pisolino. Everything closes down here in Abruzzo between one and three o’clock, so taking a siesta seems the perfect thing to do; especially in the heat of an August afternoon.

In the semi-darkness of a green shuttered room, with my eyes closed I would hear the chirping of the cicadas outside, the peal of the nearby church bells (every quarter hour) and the occasional scooter passing by. The scent of jasmine wafting in from the balcony would help me to drift off ...

I know that it is not the same all over Italy, but here they do take their afternoon nap very seriously. Businesses sacrifice the possibility of making more money for the tranquility of having a nice home-cooked meal with family and a chance to lie down afterwards. It was easy to adjust to the slow pace of life here. In our fast-paced world, quality of life often comes second to career; I believe these people have got the balance right.

In fact, there have been a whole host of studies showing that daytime napping improves brain power. If your schedule is filled with different activities which require learning 'how' to do things, it is worth making the time for that siesta. If nothing else, it makes for a smart sounding excuse when you’re feeling tired: "I have to go lie down and consolidate some memories, improve my long-term cognitive functioning and better my task performance!"
Buon riposo!
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Dopo un pranzo delizioso di parecchie portate, era tempo per fare un pisolino. Tutto è chiuso qui in Abruzzo fra l’una e le tre del pomeriggio, quindi fare una siesta è perfetto; soprattutto durante un pomeriggio caldo d’agosto.

Nel semibuio d’una camera con le persiane verde, con gli occhi chiusi, ascoltavo i rumori delle cicale fuori, lo scampanio regolare delle campane (ogni quarto d’ora) ed i scooter. Il profumo di gelsomino penetrava dal balcone.

So che non è lo stesso in tutt’Italia, ma qui, loro fanno un riposino pomeridiano ogni giorno. Gli affari sacrificano la possibilità di guadagnare più soldi per avere un pasto buono fatto a casa e l’opportunità di sdraiarsi un po’.

Credo che questa gente ha trovato l’equilibrio giusto.
Buon Riposo!

Abruzzo Style Macaroni/Maccheroni alla Chitarra

2009-03-07T17:02:00.017Z

On our first morning in Chieti we had a selection of fresh pastries from the bakery with a caffè latte for breakfast. They certainly know how to start their day sweetly in Italy...

Immediately afterwards, Lina began to prepare a traditional Italian meal for the lunch; it is called Maccheroni alla Chitarra. It's the most famous recipe of the Abruzzo region. It is a pasta, naturally made at home, that is made using a tool, or rather an ‘instrument’: the guitar. It's a rectangular beech wood frame, made by craftsmen who stretch thin steel wires the length of the frame at a distance of one millimeter from the other. This instrument has been used for centuries and is still very much in use today. It looks a bit like a guitar and makes a sound too.

First she prepared a sauce with beef, pork and a piece of lamb, olive oil, onion and fresh tomatoes. She simmered this sauce for three hours! (This is the reason that she started cooking at ten o’clock in the morning). Meanwhile she made the dough with eggs, flour and salt, kneaded for a long time, then put it to rest for a few hours in a covered bowl away from drafts.

When the time was right she rolled out the dough; then cut it in slices the same length as the guitar. It was fascinating for me to watch how she made it. She put the rolling pin on the pasta and then pressed the pasta through the steel wires. It looked like strips of spaghetti, except that they edges were square instead of rounded.

I found this video on YouTube which demonstrates the use of the chitarra:

Lina is a really good cook! She cooked the pasta in abundant salted water at a boil. Then she drained it, dressed it with the sauce, added grated pecorino and hot chili powder. Delicious!

The wine to serve with this dish? Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC of course…
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Il nostro primo giorno a Chieti per la colazione abbiamo avuto una scelta di pasticcini della paneteria con un caffè latte. Certemente sanno come incominciare dolcemente la giornata in Italia.

Immediatemente dopo, Lina ha incominciato la preparazione d’una ricetta tradizionale d’Abruzzo per il pranzo; si chiama Maccheroni alla Chitarra. È la ricetta più famosa della cucina d'Abruzzo. È una pastasciutta, naturalmente fatta in casa, che si prepara con un arnese, anzi uno "strumento": la chitarra.

Il nome deriva dal fatto che è un telaio rettangolare di legno di faggio, forgiato da artigiani che vi tendono, alla distanza di un millimetro l'uno dall'altro dei sottilissimi fili d'acciaio. Questo strumento è stato usato da secoli ed è ancora usato oggi. Assomiglia un po’ come una chittara che suona.

Prima, ha preparato il sugo con carne di vitello, maiale ed un pezzetto d’agnello, olio d’oliva, cipolla e salsa di pomodoro fresco. Ha cotto il sugo a fuoco lento per tre ore! (È la ragione che ha incominciato a cucinare alle dieci del mattino). Nel frattempo ha fatto l’impasto d’uova, farina e sale, lavorato lungamente, poi messo a riposare per un paio di ore in una recipiente coperto in luogo riparato dall’aria.

Al momento opportune ha steso l’impasto ottenuto in sottili sfoglie da tagliare a strisce larghe secondo la larghezza della chitarra. Era affascinante guardare. Ha appogiato il mattarello sulla pasta che, in seguito a pressione ha tagliato le strisce con i fili d’acciaio.

Lina è una bravissima cuoca! I maccheroni si sono cotto in abbondantissima acqua salata ed in forte ebollizione; scolati e conditi con il sugo, aggiunto formaggio percorino grattuggiato e peperoncino piccante fresco in polvere. Buonissima!

Il vino da servire con questo pasto? Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC naturalmente…

My First Impressions of Italy/Le mie prime impressioni sull'Italia

2009-02-12T19:53:00.023Z

We arrived on a hot evening in August 1994. It was a 20 minute drive from Pescara airport to Chieti

(Ryan Air flight from London Stansted UK). I particularly remember while passing along the motorway there were large fields cultivated with basil. (The scent came in through the open windows of the car.) I like basil very much; the smell as well as the taste always reminds me of summer. I also saw fields of poppies, wheat and sunflowers – everything was like in a beautiful painting.

In my opinion, Chieti is the most picturesque province of Abruzzo. Chieti town, the capital of the region is a beautiful town between the Adriatic sea and the Apennine mountains. During the summer, the wonderful beaches of Pescara, Francavilla al Mare and all the way down the Adriatic coast to Vasto attract bathers.

Trabocco at Pescara

Francavilla al Mare

Vasto

There are the rugged profiles of the magnificent Gran Sasso and Majella mountain ranges, many castles and hilltop villages. These hills are covered with thick masses of olive groves alongside vineyards. They are cultivated by a population attached to the land and their traditions.

The region of Abruzzo is truly a hidden treasure of Italy. I've had the pleasure of enjoying a truly unforgettable time there…

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Siamo arrivati una sera calda nell’agosto del 1994. Era un viaggio di venti minuti di macchina dall’aeroporto da Pescara a Chieti.

Mi ricordo particolarmente, che passando lungo l’autostrada c’erano dei grandi campi coltivati a basilico. (Il profumo arrivava fin dentro l’auto). A me piace molto il basilico; sia il profumo che il gusto mi ricordano sempre d’estate. Anch’io ho visto i campi di papaveri, di grano e di girasoli – tutto era come in un bellissimo dipinto.

Secondo me, Chieti è la provincia più pittoresca d’Abruzzo. La città di Chieti è bellissima, tra il mare Adriatico e le montagne appenniniche. Durante l’estate accolgono i bagnanti le attraenti spiagge di Pescara, Francavilla al Mare e Vasto. Ci sono gli aspri profili del Gran Sasso e della Maiella, tanti castelli e dei villaggi in cima alle colline. Queste colline, sulle quali si distendono folte masse di olivi accanto ai vigneti sono coltivati da una popolazione attacatta alla terra ed alle sue tradizioni.

La regione d’Abruzzo è veramente un tesoro nascosto dell’Italia. Ho avuto il piacere di godere lì un periodo davvero indimenticabile...

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Photo credits: Trabocco at Pescara by tony-mezzosub

Life is Beautiful/La Vita È Bella

2009-01-13T15:40:00.012Z

Life is beautiful…especially when you are in Italy! Fifteen years ago I first set foot in this wonderful country and I’ve been drawn back to it almost every year since. It is my dream to live there one day. The first time I arrived in Italy I felt as if I had come ‘home’. This place draws you in, enchants you and lures you back again and again...

It all began, with an invitation from an Italian friend who stayed in our home the previous year. (During the summer we sometimes host students who attend English language schools in the city centre.) We visited him and his family who live in a town called Chieti in the Abruzzo region. We were able to experience rural Italy, the daily lifestyle and the friendly people - far from the well-known tourist spots. It is this part of Italy that I first fell in love with and it continues to be the region I like best ...

This trip was the beginning of a journey through which I have learned some things about the country, the people, the food, the wine and the culture. I wish to share my experiences on this blog in the hope that more people will be encouraged to go there and enjoy La Dolce Vita - the sweet life!

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La vita è bella...specialment quando si è in Italia! Quindici anni fa, visitavo questo paese meraviglioso per la prima volta e ci sono tornata quasi ogni anno d'allora. Il mio sogno è quello di vivere lì nel futuro. La prima volta quando sono arrivata in Italia mi sono sentita come se fossi tornata ‘a casa’. Questo luogo attira, incanta ed addesca, ancora ed ancora…

Tutto è iniziato, con un invito d'un amico italiano che abitava da noi l'estate precedente. (Qualche volte ospitiamo gli studenti che frequentano la scuola d'inglese nel centro.) Visitavamo lui e la sua famiglia che abitano a Chieti; una città nella regione Abruzzo.

Lì avevamo l'esperienza dell'Italia rurale; lo stile di vita e la gente cordiale – lontana dalle zone turistiche. Era questa parte d’Italia della quale mi sono innamorata per la prima volta…

Questa gita era l'inizio d'un viaggio... un periodo in cui ho imparato qualcosa del paese, la gente, il cibo, il vino e la cultura. Vorrei condividere le mie esperienze sul questo blog, sperando che più gente si senta incoraggiata ad andarci per godere - la dolce vita!

Pictures:
The old town of Chieti on the hill.
The rolling sunburnt hills of Chieti.

Images courtesy of www.allposters.co.uk