Ski Lesson for Beginners on Mottarone - Stresa

Last January my family and I decided to take a winter holiday in Stresa, Lake Maggiore. We have been there in every other season and so decided to give winter a try. Skiing for the first time was also an exciting prospect. Some friends from Turin joined us for a day of fun on Mt. Mottarone, which is just one hour north of Milan.

View of Isola Pescatori, Isola Madre and Isola Bella

We took the cable car (Funivia Stresa-Mottarone) from the hamlet of Carciano, up to the summit of Mottarone (1,491 metres). During the 20 minute ride up you have breathtaking views over the lake and the three islands. If you are arriving by car you could also reach the top from Stresa by going up the scenic 9km 'Borromeo Road'.

When you leave the cable car you can take the two-seater chairlifts to the summit. From the top on a clear day you can enjoy a full 360° view over seven lakes to the summit of Monte Rosa and the Alps.

As it was our first time to ski we booked a group ski lesson at the ski school (Scuola Sci). We went on a Friday so it wasn't too crowded and there was no waiting in line. Mottarone is very suited to first timers with eight ski runs for beginner skiers and snowboarders. There are also ten ski runs for intermediates and three for expert skiers. The area also features spectacular cross-country trails.

We rented the ski boots, skis, poles (and a helmet for our daughter Amy) at the ‘Sciottalolo’ rental shop near top of the chairlifts. You need to bring some form of ID when you are renting out the equipment. We didn’t know this before going, but luckily our friend Serena had hers and that sufficed. The instructor, Antonella, first helped us with the very basic task of attaching the skis to the ski boots. Serena kindly took the photographs.

Next Antonella had us practise gliding with the skis and then we went on to a type of conveyor belt up to the first level. She showed us the technique called the ‘snowplow’. She spoke English well and had great patience with us.We had to point our skis inwards towards each other, pull our knees together and continually push our feet apart. It takes a bit of time to get used to this strange position and I used muscles that I didn’t even know I had.

We learned that as the skis become more parallel, the faster you go; the more you snowplow, the more you slow down. In order to stop, we were told to just snowplow more widely and with more tilt. It helps if you have strong legs and have a good sense of balance. We practised this over and over going to a higher level each time.

Our daughter turned out to be a natural skier and showed us up. She had no fear at all and I think this is what made the difference. We were worried that if we fell over we might not be able to get back up or look foolish attempting to do so. I was surprised just how hard it is to ski but did have fun trying. It looks so easy when you watch other skiers; even little ones could manage really well. I’ve heard that after the first 3-6 hours you get the knack of it.

Afterwards we had a lovely lunch at Al Rifugio delle Stelle which is beside the ski school. Their menu of typical Piemontese foods included: polenta with mushrooms, game, veal, a good selection of regional wine and homemade pastries. The room has lovely views of the Alps and Monte Rosa.

Monte Rosa

Fil da Fer

We finished off the meal with a drink of the traditional local specialty Fil da Fer (as recommended by Dana of Stresa Sights). It is made from whiskey, milk, sugar and egg yolks and served warm. The others wanted theirs with whipped cream on top and said that it tasted like a dessert. It was a big hit with everyone.

After lunch we rented snow sledges. It cost €5 for the afternoon and they provided hours of fun. Later in the day we chose to go back down to the cable car by the alpine coaster/bobsleigh called Alpyland – 750m of toboggan track with speeds of up to 40kph - it was thrilling!

Younger children might enjoy the little ski train operates every day from December 26th to January 9th and on weekends throughout the year.

If you are in the Milan area and fancy going skiing why not give Mottarone a try? It is a great experience and highly recommended. It is a fantastic place to visit and by the way, January 22nd is World Snow Day!

For more detailed information about Mottarone see Dana’s wonderful blog Stresa Sights.

Photo credits: cable car and panorama - distrettolaghi.it

Epiphany in Stresa

This time last year I was in Stresa, Lake Maggiore with my family looking forward to the Procession of the Three Kings to be held on January 6th. My friend Tatiana of Italian Slow Walks asked me if I would write a guest post on her blog about my experience. You can read all about it at this link:

http://santatatiana.wordpress.com/2012/01/04/procession-of-the-re-magi-the-three-wise-kings/

Here are some photos from the day, most of which were kindly taken by our friend Giuseppe:


Variety of traditional winter foods in Piazza Cadorna

Amy warming her hands on the beautiful lit log

Shepherds with goats and sheep on the way to the procession

Our costumes

I Tre Re Magi

Preparations in Palazzo dei Congressi

The three of us joining the procession



The Three Kings in Piazza Cadorna



A sweet little angel

Court of King Herod
Villa Ducale Stresa

Chimney sweeps (spazzacamini) on the left



The live presepe with the main participants

   Previously I’ve written another guest post about a day in Stresa at the Rocca Angera on my friend Dana’s blog Stresa Sights. In case you missed it you can read about it here:

http://stresasights.blogspot.com/2010/04/la-rocca-angera.html

Ten Attractions in Varenna - Lake Como

Varenna from Bellagio

Following on from my previous post about places where you can eat outdoors in Varenna, here are ten of the main attractions that we found during our time there:

1. Villa Monastero – From the main piazza (which is free of through traffic), if you walk along the road going south you will soon come to the Villa Monastero and gardens. This is a gorgeous lakeside villa with extravagant gardens; the slopes are quite steep in places.Villa Monastero was built in the early 13th century and was a Cistercian convent dedicated to St Mary Magdalene. We spent more than five peaceful hours strolling around the alluring, lavish gardens with rare Mediterranean and tropical plants and flowers. It is a photographic paradise and famed for its citrus trees. There is another lovely café here called Al Monastero where you can have a break for lunch in stunning surroundings. You can also tour the villa, furnished with Renaissance pieces, baroque lounges, Louis IX furnishings and Gobelin tapestries. There is a long lakeside promenade, with paths and terraces set against a beautiful mountain backdrop. See their website for further information:
http://www.villamonastero.eu/

Villa Monastero

2. Castello di Vezio This partially ruined castle at the top of the hill dates back to the 7th century was allegedly founded by the Lombard Queen Theodolinda. Starting from the main piazza there are signs that lead you along a steep mule track up to it. We took about 45 minutes to reach the castle, through woodland, past wildflowers, cats, butterflies and an olive grove. Once you arrive, you can walk across the drawbridge and climb to the top of the tower for a breathtaking 360˚ view of the lake, the town below and over to the Bellagio headland. Up here you can also meet a falconer who breeds birds of prey such as: barn owls, buzzards and hawks. He holds falconry displays at weekends and you can admire astonishing flights during good weather.For further information see http://www.castellodivezio.it/

Castello di Vezio

3. The Lovers' Walk begins at the departure point for ferries, boats and hydrofoils to a stretch of the lungolago past a small harbour area to a line of lakeside restaurants, pretty shops and gelaterias. It reminded me of the Via dell’Amore in the Cinque Terre - a scenic walkway which clings to the rocks and it is flat and comfortable to stroll along. It is lit up beautifully at night. On the waterfront is a lovely promenade with hanging willows, cypress trees and wood-planked pedestrian bridges.



La Passerella
The Lover's Walk

4.Villa Cipressi is situated in an enchanting position on the shores of Lake Como with a beautiful and rich botanical garden containing towering cypress trees, flowering azaleas, rhododendron, magnolias and wisteria. The Villa Cipressi is converted into a hotel and looks like a gorgeous place to stay or have a wedding reception. The botanical pathway winds through centuries-old gardens with five terraces of luxuriant vegetation that reach down to the lake. Fine sculptures are scattered throughout the manicured compact gardens; it is much easier to get around than the gardens of Villa Monastero. From the lovely restaurant right on the lake shore you have heavenly views of the lake.

Gardens of Villa Cipressi

5. Fiumelatte: you can get to this little frazione of Varenna from Piazza San Giorgio on a lovely path about 1km from the town. It gets its name (river of milk) from the shortest river in Italy, which is only 250m long. The river flows for six months a year, a cascade of bubbling white foam. It springs from a cave in the rock that has had several famous explorers including Leonardo Da Vinci. There is a lovely delicatessen to the right of the river called 'La Bottega di Fiumelatte.' http://www.fiumelatte.it/

6. Churches. The large Romanesque Parish Church of San Giorgio in the main piazza has three naves and twin aisles and was consecrated in 1313. Its façade is embellished by a large fresco portraying Saint Christopher, to bring luck to passing travellers.  The most precious work of art inside is the coloured stone Deposition of Christ. There are also 14th and 15th-century frescoes and polyptychs by Como-based artists. The church was restored in 1957. On Good Friday there was a procession leading from this church with stops at various Stations of the Cross dotted around the town. The impressive belltower chimes on the hour and half hour (but not during the night)!

Chiesa di San Giorgio

Good Friday in Varenna

The Oratorio di San Giovanni Battista is tucked away in the corner of the old town centre. This tenth-century church is the oldest in Varenna and one of the first to be erected along the shores of Lake Como. The building is well-preserved, typically Romanic in style, although the paintings and frescoes that embellish it are from the fifteenth century. It is always open and worth having a look inside.

Oratorio di San Giovanni Battista

Interior of Oratorio San Giovanni Battista

The Chiesa Santa Maria delle Grazie is a 17th century church overlooking the main piazza. It has a Baroque interior, a wooden altar, polychrome wooden statues and paintings from the 16th century.

La Chiesa Santa Maria delle Grazie

7. Art Studios. Varenna has a little artist’s community. The Gallery Roberto Butta has gorgeous paintings of Lake Como and offers a world-wide delivery service. http://www.robertobutta.it/

The DeMaria Studio D’Arte has a permanent display of original oil paintings for Paul Demaria Guaitamacchi collectors worldwide. http://www.pauldemaria.com/

Annamaria Rivolta and her daughter Francesca Porro have beautiful pastel watercolour paintings and give painting lessons too. You can find them at Contrada Pirelli, 6.

8. Exploring Varenna's many quaint narrow lanes and alleyways.

Charming alleyways in Varenna

9. The Ornithological Museum is located inside the tourist information office near Villa Monastero and the main piazza. It contains 700 species of labeled stuffed birds displayed on several floors, which you can examine up close. On the top floor there is also a large stuffed polar bear. This is a fun place for children and nature lovers. http://www.museovarenna.191.it/

10. Ferry and boat trips from Varenna to other towns on the centre lake make Varenna a perfect home base for visiting the entire lake. When taking the ferry back from a trip to Bellagio you’ll have great views of the town, wedged on a promontory under the mountains. Along with the brightly painted houses, you can admire the parish church and the castle at the top of the hill. As the town sits on the eastern side of the lake, the light is spectacular at sunset and covers everything with a warm golden glow.

Sunset in Varenna

We spent the first three days of our week in Varenna exploring all there was to see in the town and then gave Bellagio, Menaggio, Bellano and Tremezzo (home of Villa Carlotta) a day of their own. Varenna is the perfect place to slow down, to relax and breathe more deeply; a place where the beauty of the scenery takes centre stage.


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Have you been to Varenna? What would you include as a must-see here?
Further reading : Where to Eat in Varenna

The Amazing Caves of Le Marche - Le Grotte di Frasassi

From Milan we took the Eurostar train to Ancona; it was a very comfortable journey of 3½ hours.We stayed with friends in Appignano for five marvellous days last month.  We absolutely love the Le Marche region too. I believe that every region in Italy has its own distinct landscape, customs and cuisines and this is what makes it so wonderful.

Early one morning our friends drove us to visit the famous caves of Le Marche - Le Grotte di Frasassi. It was a drive of about 40 minutes from where we were based.

Click map to enlarge

The scenery along the way was typical of the gorgeous Le Marche interior: undulating hills cultivated with sunflowers, olive trees and various crops.

Small villages perched on hilltops dot the landscape.

Travelling further inland, the spectacular Gorge of Frasassi appeared before us.

In contrast to most of Le Marche, Frasassi is geared up for tourists. We were surprised to see so many food and souvenir stalls surrounding the large car park in the village of San Vittore on the outskirts of Genga, where the ticket office is also located. At first the price of €15.50 per adult seemed a bit expensive, but it also includes transport to the caves by shuttle bus, a guided tour, entrance to the paleontological museum in San Vittore and the Art History and Territory Museum in Genga – hence a full day out.

The Grotte di Frasassi which extends for 35km is the largest underground cave system in Europe. This subterranean world of calcareous rock formations dates back 180 million years! These incredible caves were first opened to the public since 1974 and have since been visited by over ten million people. The temperature inside is 14C but there was 90 percent humidity so it didn’t feel cold. It was actually a welcome relief from the 35C temperature outside.

There is about an hour of easy walking through a maze of spacious pathways. Magnificent ‘rooms’ which reveal nature’s masterpieces in this strange and beautiful underground world are given the most ingenious names: The majestic Ancona Abyss, The Infinite Hall, The Hall of Candles, The Obelisk and The Emerald Lake.

The Hall of Candles (my favourite)

Small sparkling lakes with pools of clear still water, extravagantly fanciful stalactites, towering columns of stalagmites and alabaster spears adorn these caverns. The caves are further enchanced by the skilled use of soft theatrical lighting. One and a half km of this crystalline wonderland is open to the general public. It also includes the awesome Grotta Grande del Vento (The Great Cave of the Wind), Europe's largest single cavern. You could choose to have a guided tour in Italian, English, Spanish or German. The English guide we had was excellent and very informative, pointing out with her torch the natural sculptures that could be seen in the rock formations that we probably wouldn’t have noticed otherwise.

A visit to the magical world of the Grotte di Frasassi is a unique and incredible experience. Both adults and children will be fascinated by this extraordinary, hidden, enchanting world.

For further information see: http://www.showcaves.com/english/it/showcaves/Frasassi.html




Prices as from May 2010:
Admission – Adults €15.50
Children 6-14yrs €10.00
Children under 6 - Free
Telephone +39 0732 97211

The Sacred Mountain of Varese

Are you living in Milan or going on holiday to the Milan area? Want to escape the hustle and bustle of the city for a day? The Sacro Monte di Varese may be the place for you! Located just 55km north of Milan in the heart of the Campo dei Fiori National Park, this is an ideal spot in which to relax, breathe in some fresh air, get a little exercise and admire some spectacular architecture, works of art and stunning scenery. The best day to visit is on a Sunday…read on to find out why…

You don’t have to be religious to appreciate the beauty and art that abounds in Varese. Being there is an adventure for both the body and the spirit. Earlier this month as part of a three week whirlwind tour of Lombardia, Piemonte, Le Marche, Abruzzo and Emilia Romagna, we spent and afternoon in Varese.

Chapel on Sacro Monte di Varese

It is easy enough to walk up the impressive panoramic slopes of Monte Velete along the wide paved winding 2.5km path with a gradual climb of 300 metres. You are rewarded by the beauty of the buildings, the dazzling art and remarkable landscape with spectacular views overlooking Lake Varese and the plains and valleys of the area. The atmosphere is one of peace and serenity. A new surprise awaits you around each turn in the path.

Impressive triumphal arches separate five groups of chapels

You pass by 14 beautiful chapels along the way and although you cannot enter any of them, you can view the amazing interiors through the windows. Each chapel is embellished with richly decorated frescoes, murals and life-size painted terracotta figures theatrically representing a scene from the Mysteries of the Rosary. They were created by some of the finest painters and sculptors of the 1600s, including Mazzucchelli, Prestinari, Nuvolone and Ghiandone.

Interiors of chapels of Sacro Monte di Varese

The three arches, three fountains and all of the chapels were designed by Lombardian architect Giuseppe Bernascone and were built in the style of the Borromean era. Work on the project started in 1604 and was completed 94 years later. The chapels are all different in shape and combine beautifully with the stunning natural surroundings. Walking along the path you will be equally enchanted by the panoramic views of the lakes, the valley, and the Art Nouveau style villas found along this ancient path. In several spots there are open galleries from which you have breathtaking views of the plains of Lombardy, the Po valley, the forests and the Lakes of Varese, Comabbio and Monate.

Open Gallery Sacro Monte di Varese

At the end of the journey, the pretty mountain village of Santa Maria Del Monte welcomes you with inviting restaurants, many with panoramic terraces that overlook the valley. The final chapel (containing The Coronation of Mary) is found inside the Sanctuary of Santa Maria in the village.

On reaching the summit in Vellone, I was excited at the prospect of taking the funicular railway back down, but was disappointed to discover that in August it only operates on a Sunday! (We were there on a Friday). Nevertheless, walking back down wasn’t as difficult as I thought it would be and took half the time too.

The Sacro Monte di Varese is one of 9 World Heritage Sites in the Piedmont and Lombardy area. I first learned about the existence of these Sacri Monti through my friend Dana’s wonderful blog Stresa Sights. To find out more about the other ones, check out her fascinating post The Sacri Monti Near Stresa. So if at any time in the future you are in Milan or any of the nearby areas, don’t miss the chance to explore the beautiful Sacro Monte di Varese. It is definitely worth a visit!

Open all year round.
Entry – Free
For how to get there see:  http://www.sacromonte.it/info_sacromonte.html

Lake Scanno

One glorious morning in August our friend Gianluigi drove us to beautiful Lake Scanno (Lago di Scanno) for the day. The journey from Sulmona to Scanno on the rocky mountainous road through the Sagittario Gorge was really spectacular but I was glad to be a passenger and not a driver with roads that looked like this!

He had to negotiate this narrow serpentine route with its blind hairpin bends, while we admired the magnificent panorama. Passing through this area the scenery was truly breathtaking. At a height of 1,300m above sea level in the village of Frattura, the road opened out and we had our first glimpse of the splendid lake. From this vantage point you can see the whole of the gorgeous heart shaped lake.

Lake Scanno is in the province of L’Aquila and is the largest natural lake in Abruzzo. When you get closer to the shoreline, the color of the water is quite striking – it takes on a turquoise, almost emerald green hue. Lago di Scanno has been awarded Blue Flag status for several years and this is evident in the clean, crystal clear waters.

When we stepped out of the car we took in the thin, fresh mountain air. This enchanting place is beneficial for body, mind and spirit; the idyllic area amazes and inspires you to dream and relax. Lake Scanno itself is located at an altitude of 922m above sea level between Montanga Grande and Monte Genzana, so the temperature is very pleasant in the summer. The surrounding towns of Scanno and Villalago are situated in a wooded area of Montagna Grande.

Half of the lake is protected by the Abruzzo National Park and in the other half fishing (mostly of perch and trout) is controlled by the municipality of Villalago. There are plenty of ducks on the lake and other birdlife here is largely composed of peregrine falcons, hawks, owls and eagles. We admired some of them soaring impressively overhead.

The magical, sparking waters of the lake invite swimmers, rowers, canoeists and pedalo riders. We spent the afternoon exploring the lake in one of these pedalos.

We took turns pedalling and it was a really fun way to spend a few hours and work up an appetite for our picnic. There are also several nice restaurants in this tranquil, romantic setting  - one of which is Trattoria sul Lago.
http://www.hotelscanno.it/Details/Trattoria-Sul-Lago.html

A lovely promenade and cycle track (5.4km along the ring road) surrounds the lake and you can also rent out four-wheeled bicycles like these ones.

You can also hire horses and go riding in the surrounding mountains. In winter this is a lovely skiing area. Lago di Scanno is a wonderful, magical place that has left a lasting impression on me. If you are ever in the area, I highly recommend that you include it in your itinerary. It is the most popular lake in the tourist region of Abruzzo!

You can read the story behind this charming church at the edge of the lake here:
The Little Church of Miracles - Lake Scanno

Picture of heart shaped lake courtesy of http://www.tassidocodaresort.com/