Hermitages and Churches in Abruzzo

Last month we took an amazing excursion with Daniele of http://www.abruzzowithyou.com/ to two hermitages of extraordinary beauty, two abbeys and a magnificent hill-town church. Included in his itinerary were:

• Eremo San Spirito a Majella
• Eremo San Bartolomeo in Legio
• Abbey of Santa Maria d’Arabona
• Abbey of San Liberatore a Majella
• Chiesa dei Santi Valentino e Damiano

They are not easy to get to using public transport, so going there with a knowledgeable guide like Daniele is the ideal way to visit them.

Daniele picked us up after lunch outside our rented apartment in Montesilvano. First we came to the Cistercian abbey of Santa Maria d’Arabona in Manoppello.

Rose window in Santa Maria d'Arabona

Lily pond outside Santa Maria d'Arabona

Next we saw the beautiful abbey of San Liberatore a Majella in Serramonacesca. We took the enchanting path behind the abbey along the Alento River past ancient rock tombs, pools and little waterfalls.

San Liberatore in Serramonacesca

Mosaic floor of San Liberatore

Ancient Rock Tombs behind San Liberatore

Chiesa dei Santi Valentino e Damiano

The striking church of Saints Valentino and Damiano with its twin belltowers is in the gorgeous hill town of San Valentino. The church, which was built from stone from the Majella in the second half of the 18th century, was designed by the noted architect Luigi Vanvitelli, who also designed the palace at Caserta near Naples. In front of the church, between the two flights of steps which lead to its door, is the lovely Fountain of Sansone.

Chiesa dei Santi Valentino e Damiano

If you are ever in the little hill-town of San Valentino, I recommend that you taste their homemade ice-cream 'Crema di San Valentino'.

Eremo San Spirito a Majella

The picturesque hermitage of Eremo Santo Spirito is immersed in the fabulous scenery of the Majella Mountains. Unfortunately it was closed when we got there. Had it been open we would have been able to see a simple church, sacristy, monastic complex, chapter hall, library, winter chapel and refectory. Celestine V lived there from 1274 to 1276 before he became Pope. With a car you can drive to within 100 metres of this hermitage.

Eremo San Spirito

Eremo San Bartolomeo in Legio

We had a very enjoyable half hour walk through the Majella National Park on the way to the Hermitage of San Bartolomeo, which was the highlight of our trip. It is in an isolated spot but the walk there is not too difficult and the landscape is absolutely stunning.

Majella National Park

The hermitages rises beneath a rocky spur that covers it completely. The refuge itself can also be reached from the other side by a 'sacred staircase'. The only furnishings inside are the simple altar holding a statue of Saint Bartolomeo and a few wooden chairs along the side walls.

Eremo San Bartolomeo

When we arrived the only other person there was a mysterious, bearded, long haired, barefoot man dressed in orange robes. He pointed to my camera and waved his finger as if to say not to photograph him. He had piercing brown eyes that I will never forget. He had lit some incense inside the small chapel which wafted through the air and contributed to the atmosphere of calm. I kept my sunglasses on inside because my eyes were welling up with tears with the indescribable sense of peace that I felt there. This place has an ancient energy and being there was truly a spiritual experience.

Sacred Stairs Eremo San Bartolomeo

(John took these two photographs with his mobile phone.)

For more information about this hermitage, go to Sammy's blog www.lifeinabruzzo.com where she wrote a superb detailed account of her visit to the Hermitage of San Bartolomeo. Noel from www.abruzzo.com added exquisite close-up photos of the wildflowers and butterflies that he took the time to photograph along the way in his post entitled 'A Sanctuary in the Majella'.

We ended the day with delicious dinner in Osteria Belvedere in Roccamorice. Passing through that town in the evening we could see many of the townspeople out on the streets, chatting and eating together at outdoor cafés and restaurants in a warm, lively atmosphere. It was beautifully lit up and was the kind of town that I'd like to spend more time in, to return to in order to get to know it better...

Last year we took other great tours with our excellent guide Daniele. I wrote about them here:

Journey to San Giovanni in Venere Abbey, Abruzzo
Trabocco Punta Torre, Abruzzo Coast
Cookout in Campo Imperatore
Spellbinding Santo Stefano di Sessanio

The Magic of the Rocca Calascio

Visit to Isola Maggiore on Lake Trasimeno, Umbria

We took the ferry from Passignano and entered the charming medieval village on Isola Maggiore. It is one of three islands on Lake Trasimeno, situated on the Umbrian border close to Tuscany. One of the great things about being there is that you can walk about without having to watch out for traffic. In past centuries fishing was the main occupation but now the main source of income comes from tourism.

Close to the arrival dock, the pretty main street of Via Guglielmi is paved with bricks and has beautiful buildings on both sides dating from the 12th century. The island’s inhabitants (all 35 of them) live in this group of houses.

The Chiesa del Buon Gesù is the third building you come to on the left.

Interior of Chiesa del Buon Gesu'

The adjacent building is the Casa del Capitano del Popolo which is the centre for the documentation of the history of Isola Maggiore.

Opposite the church is the Lace Museum. Surprisingly, “Irish Stitch Lace” was introduced to the island in the early 20th century by Irish nuns. The lace is of such high quality that it was even worn by Queen Margherita of Savoy. The art of lace-making has been handed down from mother to daughter and even today you can see some of the island women at work in front of their doors.

The next church we passed the Romanesque-Gothic church of San Salvatore.

We took the path across the island through groves of centuries-old olive trees and bordered by cypress trees. You can also take a 2km lungolago walk around the perimeter where the pine and oak trees grow. There are hidden treasures all over the island and few tourists about.

At the highest point on the island stands the Chiesa San Michele Arcangelo. Inside are paintings by artists attributable to the schools of Giotto and Cimabue and a Byzantine icon of the Madonna and child.

Interior of San Michele Arcangelo

Guglielmi Castle also known as Castello Isabella was built on the grounds of a Franciscan monastery in the 1880s. Unfortunately we could not see inside because it is in the process of being renovated by the local commune; the works started in October 2005. I look forward to seeing it in the future, restored to its former glory.

We made our way to the rock of St Francis where the saint is said to have landed. Nearby is the small Chapel of San Francesco which was built around a tiny cave where St Francis slept when he stayed here during his Lenten fast in 1211. I was enthralled by the views across the lake from here and captivated by the island's peace and tranquility. Isola Maggiore has a charm that comes from the fact that it is so rich in architectural and artistic relics of a splendid past, set in a beautiful, natural unspoiled setting.

When early evening arrived we strolled back down towards the dock. What a surprise we had when we saw these harpists sitting in a row on the water's edge...

and beside them was...

…this pianist playing a grand piano! How did they manage to get it there I wonder? Evening sun rays streamed through gaps in the clouds like gateways to Heaven. The musicians were starting to perform a free two-hour performance specially created by Vincenzo Zitello for the annual ‘Music for Sunset’ series of concerts.

We chose a lovely family-run restaurant nearby called Ristorante L’Oso on the lakeside so we could have the pleasure of listening to the soothing music in the background as we ate. The restaurant had many recipes on the menu that included fish from the lake (perch, carp, pike, mullet and sea bass) as well as traditional Italian cuisine. We were also fortunate to witness a spectacular sunset before taking the ferry back. It was a magical, romantic setting and a perfect ending to an unforgettable day…

The Magic of the Rocca Calascio

I finally succeeded in visiting the dramatic Rocca Calascio after a long time wishing to see it. The problem has always been getting there. We haven’t been brave enough to rent a car in Italy yet and have managed most of our trips so far around Abruzzo using buses and trains. The journey is through mountainous terrain with narrow rocky roads, many of which have no guardrails.

By bus from Pescara you have to change at L’Aquila and wait for four hours there to get another one to Calascio. As there is no bus back in the evening you would have to stay there overnight. Fortunately for us we discovered Daniele, a guide/driver for the region who speaks English and includes the Rocca Calascio in his tours.

Getting There

Daniele departed from Pescara in the direction of Rome and left the highway at the Bussi exit. We stopped along the way and marvelled at the atmospheric, ancient Abbazia di San Clemente in Casauria. It was built in 871 AD and just recently reopened following restoration after being damaged in the April 2009 earthquake.

Interior of Abbazia di San Clemente

Next we made a short stop at the church of San Pietro ad Oratorium with its ‘magic square’ (on the left hand side of the main portal) and we admired the crystal clear Tirino river near Capestrano.

Chiesa di San Pietro ad Oratorium

The Tirino River is claimed to be the cleanest in Europe

Then he drove in the direction of L’Aquila, turned at Ofena and continued on to Calascio. The whole journey took about an hour and a half. He bravely negotiated the breathtaking winding roads up to the small medieval village of Calascio at the foot of the castle. These roads are so narrow that when we met a string of cars going in opposite direction there was no room to pass; so the cars in front had to reverse back to a safe spot.

On another bend there was a break in the guardrail as if a car had crashed into it and the two sections were held together with a string of red and white striped ribbon to prevent cars from going over the edge!

The Village of Calascio

The houses in the village of Calascio curl around the base of the mountain forming a defensive wall. The startling scenery around it is of rugged towering mountain ranges over valleys and immense plains. We rambled through the narrow village streets and stopped at the Rifugio della Rocca, a charming small restaurant and hotel with a simple, rustic and cozy interior. If you take the bus this would be a lovely place to spend the night. Sheep graze on the hillsides around and the villagers cultivate lentils and saffron in the valley below.

Rifugio della Rocca, Calascio

Interior of Rifugio della Rocca

The Church of Santa Maria della Pietà

Reva, an American girl who is working her way around Italy, joined us for this tour. She also has an interesting blog about her travels called Here’s to Italy. Together we hiked from the village following a rocky path towards the impressive white limestone fortress. The day was sunny and hot 32C (96F) with incredibly clear blue skies. Halfway up the hill we passed the beautiful octagonal church of Santa Maria della Pietà standing on a solitary plateau.


Santa Maria della Pieta with the Corno Grande in the background

It was built between the 16th and 17th centuries, when the Rocca Calascio was the property of the Medicis. The door of the church was open and being curious we headed towards it eager to see how it looked inside. We considered ourselves fortunate as Daniele said that it was usually closed. Alas, there was a private ceremony taking place and we were not allowed to enter. John however got a chance to take this quick photo of the interior from the doorway with his phone.

Interior of Santa Maria della Pieta

The Fortress of Calascio

A little history: At 1460m above sea level the Rocca Calascio is the highest and one of the oldest fortresses in Italy. It was built as a single watchtower in the tenth century for military purposes. There is a walled courtyard with four cylindrical towers at the corners. A taller inner tower was added in the thirteenth century. It was badly damaged by an earthquake centuries ago and never rebuilt so now only the exterior walls remain. Even though it is in ruins it still looks imposing. This drawing by Silvio Germano shows how the Rocca Calascio would have looked in the thirteenth century…

Before getting to the drawbridge you have to climb over a very stony patch and there is no rail to hold on to.

We wandered through the fortress and the wonderful weather provided us with clear views for miles over the magnificent terrain: Campo Imperatore, the Navelli plain and the majestic Gran Sasso Mountains. The absolute silence, the immensity of the surroundings and the high mountains create magical views from the top of the fortress. The atmosphere here is of the Medieval Ages, a place between reality, fantasy and imagination, silence and solitude.

The Rocca Calascio in the province of L’Aquila is one of the most magical places in Abruzzo and this entire day made wishes come true for me. If you are looking for a guide we highly recommend Daniele. He is enthusiastic, friendly and generous and delighted to share his intensive knowledge of the region with visitors. Let yourself be carried away by the Rocca Calascio, its history and the beauty of its breathtaking landscape.

Further reading:
The Spectacular Castle, Rocca Calascio by Tatiana of Italian Slow Walks
Filmed in Abruzzo and Rocca Calascio by Bodach of About Abruzzo
An Italian Fort Worth a Walk To by Sammy of Life in Abruzzo
Getting to Calascio by Christina of Searching for Calascio

A Night in Bologna

There was a warm, lively atmosphere in the heart of the city as we took a stroll after a wonderful dinner. Being a university city (home to the oldest university in Europe) Bologna is buzzing with young students in the streets in the evenings. They gather in groups in the squares and under the porticoes, the typical arcades of Bologna (all 38km – about 24 miles of them). At night the porticoes seem like the insides of long, softly lit serpents wending their way into the blackness.

This harpist took advantage of the great acoustics under the porticoes

Because it is not on the usual tourist trail, Bologna retains an earthiness not found in other similar sized cities like Florence or Venice. Walking through the illuminated medieval town centre is a magical experience. There is a small-town feel in this big city. We started our stroll in Piazza Maggiore, dominated on the left-hand side by the impressive Basilica of San Petronio, the fifth largest church in Europe.

San Petronio Bologna

On the opposite side of the square is the Palazzo del Podestà.

Palazzo del Podesta'

Adjacent to it is Bologna’s city hall (palazzo comunale) with its magnificent clock tower and carillon clock.

Palazzo Comunale Bologna (also called Palazzo d'Accursio)

The magnificent Fontana di Nettuno in the adjoining piazza

Leaving the square we passed these cute Vespa scooters posing on Via Santo Stefano.

Vespa scooters on Via Santo Stefano

The beautiful Palazzo della Mercanzia on Via Santo Stefano

Turning into Via Clavature, behind Trattoria Da Gianni (which looked like a lovely place to eat outdoors) we noticed that the door of the church behind it was open.

Santuario Santa Maria della Vita with
Trattoria da Gianni in foreground

It was the Santuario Santa Maria della Vita and the Baroque interior was elegant and airy.

Interior Santuario Santa Maria della Vita



When we went towards the right of the altar we saw a group of people gathered around a guide who was describing some extraordinary terracotta statues. These figures look so dramatic, emotional and awe-inspiring that I had goose bumps when I looked at them; they took my breath away. It was an unexpected surprise...



The six life-sized terracotta figures are standing around the body of Christ, lamenting his death. They are highly realistic with expressions of grief and torment on their faces, a mixture of motion and emotion, in dramatic poses with the women’s robes flying out behind them. I was particularly in awe of the two Marys on the right.

Joseph of Arimathea, Mary Salome, the Virgin Mary, Saint John the Evangelist, Mary of Cleophas and Mary Magdalene in visible distress.

This masterpiece was created by Niccolò Dell'Arca an early Renaissance sculptor in 1463. (If you look closely, you’ll see his name engraved on the tasselled pillow.) The poet Gabriele D’Annunzio was so moved after seeing these scupltures that he wrote about them in his story ‘Le Faville del Maglio’ (The Sparks of the Hammer) and described this work perfectly as a ‘scream turned to stone.’ The Compianto sul Cristo morto is an exceptional work of art and one that I feel will remain in my memory forever.

Leaving the Sanctuary we turned into Via Farini. If you like to shop for clothes, you're going to love the Galleria Cavour on this street. It has a lot of chic high fashion shops including Armani, Gucci, Prada,Yves Saint Laurent and Versace. In August during the sales there are reductions of 50-70% in most of the stores. It reminded me of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuelle II in Milan.

Autumn collection in Galleria Cavour

Nearby in Piazza Ravegnana are the Two Towers, the main symbols of the city. Torre degli Asinelli is 97m tall with 498 steps to the top from where, on a clear day, you can enjoy spectacular views of the red roofed city. Torre dei Garisenda is not open to the public as it has a lean of over 3m (10 feet). Both were built in the 12th century.



Bologna's Two Towers

On the way back on this balmy night we stopped for ice-cream at Cremeria Funivia on Via Porrettana. It is so named because there used to be a cableway from this point up to the Santuario San Luca on the hill (Colle della Guardia). Enrico, a lifelong Bologna resident said that it was one of the best places for gelato in the city. All of the homemade gelato is made fresh daily on the premises. I tried the nocciola and it was excellent!

The spacious interior of Cremeria Funivia, Bologna

Santuario San Luca overlooking the city on Guardian Hill

We returned to our hotel feeling very content after this enchanting night in Bologna. My next post will be about what you can see and do if you only have one day in Bologna…