The Foods of South-Eastern Sicily

We spent almost two weeks in the beautiful southeast of Sicily visiting some of the dazzlingly beautiful Baroque towns of the Val di Noto: Catania, Ragusa Ibla, Modica, Noto and Scicli. The breathtaking architecture charmed us just as much as the exotic new foods that we tried there. The Greeks, Romans, Arabs and Normans have all influenced Sicily’s architecture as well as its cuisine and this is what makes it so different from the rest of Italy.

Here are my 10 favourite Sicilian foods:

1. Sicilian antipasti – they are full of contrasting flavours: caponata – a ratatouille of vegetables (usually aubergines, green olives and peppers) in a sweet and sour sauce, stuffed sardines, herring, salumi and a variety of cheeses.

Antipasti from Trattoria Iblantica in Ragusa Ibla

Antipasti from Trattoria  De Fiore in Catania

2. Pesce Spada (Swordfish) cubed and mixed with zucchini and ‘cavatelli’ handmade pasta.

Cavatelli, pesce spada e zucchine

3. Cassata Siciliana – a rich dessert made of sponge cake sprinkled with Marsala wine and filled with ricotta and chocolate chips. The sides are covered with marzipan and the top with fondant icing and then it is decorated with candied fruits.

4. Sicilian cheeses – especially Caciocavallo – a firm cow’s milk cheese, Pecorino – a sheep’s milk cheese flavoured with peppercorns and Provola dei Nebrodi - an aged cow’s milk cheese.

Caciocavallo Ragusano

5. Pasta dishes: Pasta alla Norma – fried aubergines (melanzane) with sweet Pachino tomatoes, basil, garlic, onion and ricotta salata tossed in pasta.

Pasta alla Norma
from Ristorante il Barocco - Ragusa Ibla

Another delicious pasta dish is Ravioli al pesto di pistacchi - ravioli filled with fresh ricotta and covered with a pesto made of pistachios from Bronte, then dusted with cocoa powder.

Ravioli ricotta al Pesto di Pistacchi

6. Gelato – Gelati DiVini in Ragusa Ibla serve wine-flavoured ice-creams. I had an unforgettable Brachetto d’Acqui along with mandorle tostate (toasted almonds).

7. Arancini - the much-loved street food called ‘little oranges’ are delightful golden balls of deep-fried saffron rice, stuffed with tomato ragu, peas and mozzarella cheese. The rice balls are rolled in flour, coated with beaten egg and covered in breadcrumbs and are best eaten hot. In Palermo they’re shaped like oranges and in Catania they're more pear-shaped. They make a quick, satisfying lunch.

Arancino from Catania

8. Cannoli – Sicily’s most famous dessert – fried pastry tubes filled with sweetened ricotta and chocolate chips then dipped in chopped pistachio nuts and a candied cherry is added to both ends. In Catania we found a pasticceria where we could watch them being filled at the last moment (preparati sul momento) so that the pastry didn’t have time to go soggy.

Cannolo Siciliano

9. Warm brioche buns filled with gelato made an indulgent breakfast treat – a Sicilian specialty.

Brioche Calde con Gelato

10. Risotto ai frutti di mare – with mussels, shrimp, squid and clams - the best risotto I’ve ever had!

Risotto from Trattoria Vecchi Sapori in Catania

This is just a small selection of the variety of sumptuous foods that you can find in Southeastern Sicily. No doubt I've  left out many more popular dishes that are worth mentioning. Which Sicilian foods would you recommend?

Here is a clickable link to reader Paul's great recommendations for food in Sicily - in particular the use of wild foods such as fennel, asparagus, prickly pears, capers, sweet chestnuts and mushrooms. http://www.wildfoodandrecipes.co.uk/2010_09_01_archive.html

Visit to The Valley of The Temples - Sicily

On a sunny spring day in March we travelled from Catania to the Valle dei Templi in Agrigento. There were no trains running in the morning so we had to go by bus. At first I was a little apprehensive about taking such a long three hour journey in what turned out to be a minibus! Despite my reservations it was quite comfortable, as we could open the windows for fresh air and there was a ten minute rest stop half way. The inland undulating landscape along the way was surprisingly green.

The Valley of the Temples is one of the most important archeological areas in Sicily and a Unesco World Heritage site - the ruins of the ancient city of Akragas. These are the oldest Greek ruins outside of Greece and I was so excited about seeing them. Once we got to the bus parking lot beside the train station in Agrigento we checked into the conveniently located Hotel Amici. From there it was just 20 minutes by local bus to the archeological site. I had read that the most spectacular temples were in the eastern zone so that is where we started our exploration. (The western zone is just across the road.) We got a guidebook at the ticket office to help explain things; there were also audio guides available. After paying for our tickets - €10 which included entrance to the Archeological Museum - we took a path that lead to the ruins of the Temple of Juno. Built between 470 and 450 BC it occupies the highest and most panoramic position on a hill.

The Temple of Juno

As we continued along the Via Sacra we saw unusual holes in the stretch of city walls that run alongside. These were half moon shaped tombs dating back to Byzantine times called Arcosolium graves.

Arcosolium graves

Next we came to the Villa Hardcastle. It used to be the Agrigento home of the English Navy captain Sir Alexander Hardcastle. He loved this valley and used up all of his personal inheritance in an attempt to bring it back to life. Thanks to his financial contribution and the enthusiasm shared with archaeologist Pirro Marconi, he was responsible for the reconstruction of eight columns from the Temple of Hercules during the years 1924-31. His house is now used as a multi-media museum and there is an elegant café nearby - the 'Caffetteria agli Arcosoli'.

Opposite the Villa Hardcastle lies the necropolis, crypts that were created out of ancient Greek cisterns, where numerous burial chambers were dug out during the Early Christian period.

Early Christian Necropolis

About 500 metres further on we came to the highlight of the area - the stunning Doric Temple of Concord - one of the best-preserved Greek temples in existence.

It was certainly a magnificent and imposing sight, perched on a ridge and built in order to be seen by sailors and troops arriving by sea. It is remarkable that it has survived almost entirely intact since its construction in 430BC. Alongside it that day was a contemporary sculpture, a temporary display by the Polish sculptor Igor Mitoraj. The bronze 'Fallen Angel' figure contrasted starkly with the stone of the ancient monument.

On we walked, past an 800 year old olive tree and an olive grove until we reached the Temple of Hercules, the oldest of the temples, dating from the end of 6BC. In the evening the temples take on a lovely golden hue. From this point you have a superb vista of Agrigento and towards the coast.

The Temple of Hercules

 We spent about 3 hours here, soaking up the impressive views and the atmosphere. The place is huge; to see all of it you would really need a full day. Spring was a magical time to visit with a profusion of yellow and purple wildflowers in bloom and almond trees in blossom. Spread out over the valley and on a ridge resting between the city and the sea, you can feel what it must have been like here thousands of years ago.



The site is open every day, all year round 8.30am – 7pm. In July and August the closing time is 10pm. After sunset it is illuminated and I can imagine that it would look even more breathtaking.

Easter Week Processions in Ragusa Ibla, Sicily

Many towns in Sicily celebrate Easter with rituals that are a rich blend of faith, folklore, tradition and community. We wanted to experience some of the Easter processions and chose to stay in the town of Ragusa Ibla (one of the UNESCO listed Baroque towns in south-eastern Sicily) for Holy Week this month.

On Palm Sunday (Domenica delle Palme) we saw worshipers carrying palm fronds and olive branches as they returned from church. During the first procession that evening, the statue of Our Lady of Sorrows was carried through the town to the church of Santa Maria dell’Itria.

Santa Maria Addolorata

 

The striking blue dome of Santa Maria dell'Itria

The image of Jesus crowned with thorns was transported on Holy Monday (Lunedì Santo) between two rows of devotees, each holding votive candles and accompanied by the sound of a solemn brass band. The procession proceeded to the Duomo San Giorgio.

Duomo San Giorgio, Ragusa Ibla

We missed the other procession that left from Chiesa di San Giacomo on Monday evening - Christ in the Garden of Olives. I found this short clip of it:



On Holy Tuesday (Martedì Santo), the procession with the statue of Veronica left from the Church of Purgatory. Led by hundreds of the faithful, they wove their way through narrow streets and wide piazzas until they finally arrived at the Cathedral.

Chiesa del Purgatorio, Ragusa Ibla

The Veil of Veronica

Two statues were carried to the Duomo San Giorgio on Good Friday (Venerdì Santo) one of Christ in a glass casket followed by Our Lady of Sorrows (La Madre Addolorata). The entire community is involved in these important religious events. I admire the emotional and spiritual connection that the local people have with these ceremonies and the way in which the men help one another to skilfully carry and manoeuvre the large, heavy statues up and down the steep steps.

I love the fact that the citizens of Ragusa Ibla continue to keep all its medieval traditions and festivals alive. What is really amazing about these events is that they are not done for the benefit of tourists or visitors; they are done because they have always been done. For us it was a great pleasure to witness them and get a glimpse into the past. Anyone with any historical or cultural interest in Italy, should have this experience, we cannot recommend it highly enough.

Catania's Street Markets

As we walked towards the Fontana dell'Amenano in Piazza del Duomo we could hear the frenzied cries of the fishmongers selling their catch of the day. We took the steps down the left hand side of the fountain and had this view of the market below.

Catania’s characteristic fish market Mercato della Pescheria glows with sights, sounds and strong smells. Red tarpaulins suspended as tents and colourful umbrellas protect the wares from the elements. Each fishmonger has a table selling different selections of fish, freshly caught that morning: swordfish, cuttlefish, tuna, eels, sardines, ray, lobsters, clams, octopi, squid and more.

With arms flailing, voices raised and chanting slogans, the fishmongers attract and negotiate with customers. The meat vendors sell all kinds of meat. I couldn’t look at the carcasses of lambs and goats hanging upside down as they were quite gruesome.

Further down the street are the colourful stalls of vegetables and nuts and fruit, everything perfectly fresh, seasonal and of high quality. My favourite is the sweet Sicilian Tarocco blood orange. You can taste samples of the wonderful Sicilian cheeses on Via Pardo; peppery aged Pecorino, Caciocavallo, Ragusano and Provola - all were delicious.

The Catania market is crowded and chaotic, not polished like other markets I’ve visited on mainland Italy but more traditional, more authentic and more real. Things haven’t changed here for decades.

A second market can be found at the end of Via Etnea in Piazza Carlo Alberto. Dozens of vendors sell clothes, bags, jewellery and household items as well as food at affordable prices.

The market in Catania is great place to soak up the local electric atmosphere and is an unforgettable experience for all of your senses!

Open Monday to Saturday 8am - 2pm.