Hermitages and Churches in Abruzzo

Last month we took an amazing excursion with Daniele of http://www.abruzzowithyou.com/ to two hermitages of extraordinary beauty, two abbeys and a magnificent hill-town church. Included in his itinerary were:

• Eremo San Spirito a Majella
• Eremo San Bartolomeo in Legio
• Abbey of Santa Maria d’Arabona
• Abbey of San Liberatore a Majella
• Chiesa dei Santi Valentino e Damiano

They are not easy to get to using public transport, so going there with a knowledgeable guide like Daniele is the ideal way to visit them.

Daniele picked us up after lunch outside our rented apartment in Montesilvano. First we came to the Cistercian abbey of Santa Maria d’Arabona in Manoppello.

Rose window in Santa Maria d'Arabona

Lily pond outside Santa Maria d'Arabona

Next we saw the beautiful abbey of San Liberatore a Majella in Serramonacesca. We took the enchanting path behind the abbey along the Alento River past ancient rock tombs, pools and little waterfalls.

San Liberatore in Serramonacesca

Mosaic floor of San Liberatore

Ancient Rock Tombs behind San Liberatore

Chiesa dei Santi Valentino e Damiano

The striking church of Saints Valentino and Damiano with its twin belltowers is in the gorgeous hill town of San Valentino. The church, which was built from stone from the Majella in the second half of the 18th century, was designed by the noted architect Luigi Vanvitelli, who also designed the palace at Caserta near Naples. In front of the church, between the two flights of steps which lead to its door, is the lovely Fountain of Sansone.

Chiesa dei Santi Valentino e Damiano

If you are ever in the little hill-town of San Valentino, I recommend that you taste their homemade ice-cream 'Crema di San Valentino'.

Eremo San Spirito a Majella

The picturesque hermitage of Eremo Santo Spirito is immersed in the fabulous scenery of the Majella Mountains. Unfortunately it was closed when we got there. Had it been open we would have been able to see a simple church, sacristy, monastic complex, chapter hall, library, winter chapel and refectory. Celestine V lived there from 1274 to 1276 before he became Pope. With a car you can drive to within 100 metres of this hermitage.

Eremo San Spirito

Eremo San Bartolomeo in Legio

We had a very enjoyable half hour walk through the Majella National Park on the way to the Hermitage of San Bartolomeo, which was the highlight of our trip. It is in an isolated spot but the walk there is not too difficult and the landscape is absolutely stunning.

Majella National Park

The hermitages rises beneath a rocky spur that covers it completely. The refuge itself can also be reached from the other side by a 'sacred staircase'. The only furnishings inside are the simple altar holding a statue of Saint Bartolomeo and a few wooden chairs along the side walls.

Eremo San Bartolomeo

When we arrived the only other person there was a mysterious, bearded, long haired, barefoot man dressed in orange robes. He pointed to my camera and waved his finger as if to say not to photograph him. He had piercing brown eyes that I will never forget. He had lit some incense inside the small chapel which wafted through the air and contributed to the atmosphere of calm. I kept my sunglasses on inside because my eyes were welling up with tears with the indescribable sense of peace that I felt there. This place has an ancient energy and being there was truly a spiritual experience.

Sacred Stairs Eremo San Bartolomeo

(John took these two photographs with his mobile phone.)

For more information about this hermitage, go to Sammy's blog www.lifeinabruzzo.com where she wrote a superb detailed account of her visit to the Hermitage of San Bartolomeo. Noel from www.abruzzo.com added exquisite close-up photos of the wildflowers and butterflies that he took the time to photograph along the way in his post entitled 'A Sanctuary in the Majella'.

We ended the day with delicious dinner in Osteria Belvedere in Roccamorice. Passing through that town in the evening we could see many of the townspeople out on the streets, chatting and eating together at outdoor cafés and restaurants in a warm, lively atmosphere. It was beautifully lit up and was the kind of town that I'd like to spend more time in, to return to in order to get to know it better...

Last year we took other great tours with our excellent guide Daniele. I wrote about them here:

Journey to San Giovanni in Venere Abbey, Abruzzo
Trabocco Punta Torre, Abruzzo Coast
Cookout in Campo Imperatore
Spellbinding Santo Stefano di Sessanio

The Magic of the Rocca Calascio

Visit to Isola Maggiore on Lake Trasimeno, Umbria

We took the ferry from Passignano and entered the charming medieval village on Isola Maggiore. It is one of three islands on Lake Trasimeno, situated on the Umbrian border close to Tuscany. One of the great things about being there is that you can walk about without having to watch out for traffic. In past centuries fishing was the main occupation but now the main source of income comes from tourism.

Close to the arrival dock, the pretty main street of Via Guglielmi is paved with bricks and has beautiful buildings on both sides dating from the 12th century. The island’s inhabitants (all 35 of them) live in this group of houses.

The Chiesa del Buon Gesù is the third building you come to on the left.

Interior of Chiesa del Buon Gesu'

The adjacent building is the Casa del Capitano del Popolo which is the centre for the documentation of the history of Isola Maggiore.

Opposite the church is the Lace Museum. Surprisingly, “Irish Stitch Lace” was introduced to the island in the early 20th century by Irish nuns. The lace is of such high quality that it was even worn by Queen Margherita of Savoy. The art of lace-making has been handed down from mother to daughter and even today you can see some of the island women at work in front of their doors.

The next church we passed the Romanesque-Gothic church of San Salvatore.

We took the path across the island through groves of centuries-old olive trees and bordered by cypress trees. You can also take a 2km lungolago walk around the perimeter where the pine and oak trees grow. There are hidden treasures all over the island and few tourists about.

At the highest point on the island stands the Chiesa San Michele Arcangelo. Inside are paintings by artists attributable to the schools of Giotto and Cimabue and a Byzantine icon of the Madonna and child.

Interior of San Michele Arcangelo

Guglielmi Castle also known as Castello Isabella was built on the grounds of a Franciscan monastery in the 1880s. Unfortunately we could not see inside because it is in the process of being renovated by the local commune; the works started in October 2005. I look forward to seeing it in the future, restored to its former glory.

We made our way to the rock of St Francis where the saint is said to have landed. Nearby is the small Chapel of San Francesco which was built around a tiny cave where St Francis slept when he stayed here during his Lenten fast in 1211. I was enthralled by the views across the lake from here and captivated by the island's peace and tranquility. Isola Maggiore has a charm that comes from the fact that it is so rich in architectural and artistic relics of a splendid past, set in a beautiful, natural unspoiled setting.

When early evening arrived we strolled back down towards the dock. What a surprise we had when we saw these harpists sitting in a row on the water's edge...

and beside them was...

…this pianist playing a grand piano! How did they manage to get it there I wonder? Evening sun rays streamed through gaps in the clouds like gateways to Heaven. The musicians were starting to perform a free two-hour performance specially created by Vincenzo Zitello for the annual ‘Music for Sunset’ series of concerts.

We chose a lovely family-run restaurant nearby called Ristorante L’Oso on the lakeside so we could have the pleasure of listening to the soothing music in the background as we ate. The restaurant had many recipes on the menu that included fish from the lake (perch, carp, pike, mullet and sea bass) as well as traditional Italian cuisine. We were also fortunate to witness a spectacular sunset before taking the ferry back. It was a magical, romantic setting and a perfect ending to an unforgettable day…

Visit to The Valley of The Temples - Sicily

On a sunny spring day in March we travelled from Catania to the Valle dei Templi in Agrigento. There were no trains running in the morning so we had to go by bus. At first I was a little apprehensive about taking such a long three hour journey in what turned out to be a minibus! Despite my reservations it was quite comfortable, as we could open the windows for fresh air and there was a ten minute rest stop half way. The inland undulating landscape along the way was surprisingly green.

The Valley of the Temples is one of the most important archeological areas in Sicily and a Unesco World Heritage site - the ruins of the ancient city of Akragas. These are the oldest Greek ruins outside of Greece and I was so excited about seeing them. Once we got to the bus parking lot beside the train station in Agrigento we checked into the conveniently located Hotel Amici. From there it was just 20 minutes by local bus to the archeological site. I had read that the most spectacular temples were in the eastern zone so that is where we started our exploration. (The western zone is just across the road.) We got a guidebook at the ticket office to help explain things; there were also audio guides available. After paying for our tickets - €10 which included entrance to the Archeological Museum - we took a path that lead to the ruins of the Temple of Juno. Built between 470 and 450 BC it occupies the highest and most panoramic position on a hill.

The Temple of Juno

As we continued along the Via Sacra we saw unusual holes in the stretch of city walls that run alongside. These were half moon shaped tombs dating back to Byzantine times called Arcosolium graves.

Arcosolium graves

Next we came to the Villa Hardcastle. It used to be the Agrigento home of the English Navy captain Sir Alexander Hardcastle. He loved this valley and used up all of his personal inheritance in an attempt to bring it back to life. Thanks to his financial contribution and the enthusiasm shared with archaeologist Pirro Marconi, he was responsible for the reconstruction of eight columns from the Temple of Hercules during the years 1924-31. His house is now used as a multi-media museum and there is an elegant café nearby - the 'Caffetteria agli Arcosoli'.

Opposite the Villa Hardcastle lies the necropolis, crypts that were created out of ancient Greek cisterns, where numerous burial chambers were dug out during the Early Christian period.

Early Christian Necropolis

About 500 metres further on we came to the highlight of the area - the stunning Doric Temple of Concord - one of the best-preserved Greek temples in existence.

It was certainly a magnificent and imposing sight, perched on a ridge and built in order to be seen by sailors and troops arriving by sea. It is remarkable that it has survived almost entirely intact since its construction in 430BC. Alongside it that day was a contemporary sculpture, a temporary display by the Polish sculptor Igor Mitoraj. The bronze 'Fallen Angel' figure contrasted starkly with the stone of the ancient monument.

On we walked, past an 800 year old olive tree and an olive grove until we reached the Temple of Hercules, the oldest of the temples, dating from the end of 6BC. In the evening the temples take on a lovely golden hue. From this point you have a superb vista of Agrigento and towards the coast.

The Temple of Hercules

 We spent about 3 hours here, soaking up the impressive views and the atmosphere. The place is huge; to see all of it you would really need a full day. Spring was a magical time to visit with a profusion of yellow and purple wildflowers in bloom and almond trees in blossom. Spread out over the valley and on a ridge resting between the city and the sea, you can feel what it must have been like here thousands of years ago.



The site is open every day, all year round 8.30am – 7pm. In July and August the closing time is 10pm. After sunset it is illuminated and I can imagine that it would look even more breathtaking.

Easter Week Processions in Ragusa Ibla, Sicily

Many towns in Sicily celebrate Easter with rituals that are a rich blend of faith, folklore, tradition and community. We wanted to experience some of the Easter processions and chose to stay in the town of Ragusa Ibla (one of the UNESCO listed Baroque towns in south-eastern Sicily) for Holy Week this month.

On Palm Sunday (Domenica delle Palme) we saw worshipers carrying palm fronds and olive branches as they returned from church. During the first procession that evening, the statue of Our Lady of Sorrows was carried through the town to the church of Santa Maria dell’Itria.

Santa Maria Addolorata

 

The striking blue dome of Santa Maria dell'Itria

The image of Jesus crowned with thorns was transported on Holy Monday (Lunedì Santo) between two rows of devotees, each holding votive candles and accompanied by the sound of a solemn brass band. The procession proceeded to the Duomo San Giorgio.

Duomo San Giorgio, Ragusa Ibla

We missed the other procession that left from Chiesa di San Giacomo on Monday evening - Christ in the Garden of Olives. I found this short clip of it:



On Holy Tuesday (Martedì Santo), the procession with the statue of Veronica left from the Church of Purgatory. Led by hundreds of the faithful, they wove their way through narrow streets and wide piazzas until they finally arrived at the Cathedral.

Chiesa del Purgatorio, Ragusa Ibla

The Veil of Veronica

Two statues were carried to the Duomo San Giorgio on Good Friday (Venerdì Santo) one of Christ in a glass casket followed by Our Lady of Sorrows (La Madre Addolorata). The entire community is involved in these important religious events. I admire the emotional and spiritual connection that the local people have with these ceremonies and the way in which the men help one another to skilfully carry and manoeuvre the large, heavy statues up and down the steep steps.

I love the fact that the citizens of Ragusa Ibla continue to keep all its medieval traditions and festivals alive. What is really amazing about these events is that they are not done for the benefit of tourists or visitors; they are done because they have always been done. For us it was a great pleasure to witness them and get a glimpse into the past. Anyone with any historical or cultural interest in Italy, should have this experience, we cannot recommend it highly enough.

Catania's Street Markets

As we walked towards the Fontana dell'Amenano in Piazza del Duomo we could hear the frenzied cries of the fishmongers selling their catch of the day. We took the steps down the left hand side of the fountain and had this view of the market below.

Catania’s characteristic fish market Mercato della Pescheria glows with sights, sounds and strong smells. Red tarpaulins suspended as tents and colourful umbrellas protect the wares from the elements. Each fishmonger has a table selling different selections of fish, freshly caught that morning: swordfish, cuttlefish, tuna, eels, sardines, ray, lobsters, clams, octopi, squid and more.

With arms flailing, voices raised and chanting slogans, the fishmongers attract and negotiate with customers. The meat vendors sell all kinds of meat. I couldn’t look at the carcasses of lambs and goats hanging upside down as they were quite gruesome.

Further down the street are the colourful stalls of vegetables and nuts and fruit, everything perfectly fresh, seasonal and of high quality. My favourite is the sweet Sicilian Tarocco blood orange. You can taste samples of the wonderful Sicilian cheeses on Via Pardo; peppery aged Pecorino, Caciocavallo, Ragusano and Provola - all were delicious.

The Catania market is crowded and chaotic, not polished like other markets I’ve visited on mainland Italy but more traditional, more authentic and more real. Things haven’t changed here for decades.

A second market can be found at the end of Via Etnea in Piazza Carlo Alberto. Dozens of vendors sell clothes, bags, jewellery and household items as well as food at affordable prices.

The market in Catania is great place to soak up the local electric atmosphere and is an unforgettable experience for all of your senses!

Open Monday to Saturday 8am - 2pm.