Visit to The Valley of The Temples - Sicily

On a sunny spring day in March we travelled from Catania to the Valle dei Templi in Agrigento. There were no trains running in the morning so we had to go by bus. At first I was a little apprehensive about taking such a long three hour journey in what turned out to be a minibus! Despite my reservations it was quite comfortable, as we could open the windows for fresh air and there was a ten minute rest stop half way. The inland undulating landscape along the way was surprisingly green.

The Valley of the Temples is one of the most important archeological areas in Sicily and a Unesco World Heritage site - the ruins of the ancient city of Akragas. These are the oldest Greek ruins outside of Greece and I was so excited about seeing them. Once we got to the bus parking lot beside the train station in Agrigento we checked into the conveniently located Hotel Amici. From there it was just 20 minutes by local bus to the archeological site. I had read that the most spectacular temples were in the eastern zone so that is where we started our exploration. (The western zone is just across the road.) We got a guidebook at the ticket office to help explain things; there were also audio guides available. After paying for our tickets - €10 which included entrance to the Archeological Museum - we took a path that lead to the ruins of the Temple of Juno. Built between 470 and 450 BC it occupies the highest and most panoramic position on a hill.

The Temple of Juno

As we continued along the Via Sacra we saw unusual holes in the stretch of city walls that run alongside. These were half moon shaped tombs dating back to Byzantine times called Arcosolium graves.

Arcosolium graves

Next we came to the Villa Hardcastle. It used to be the Agrigento home of the English Navy captain Sir Alexander Hardcastle. He loved this valley and used up all of his personal inheritance in an attempt to bring it back to life. Thanks to his financial contribution and the enthusiasm shared with archaeologist Pirro Marconi, he was responsible for the reconstruction of eight columns from the Temple of Hercules during the years 1924-31. His house is now used as a multi-media museum and there is an elegant café nearby - the 'Caffetteria agli Arcosoli'.

Opposite the Villa Hardcastle lies the necropolis, crypts that were created out of ancient Greek cisterns, where numerous burial chambers were dug out during the Early Christian period.

Early Christian Necropolis

About 500 metres further on we came to the highlight of the area - the stunning Doric Temple of Concord - one of the best-preserved Greek temples in existence.

It was certainly a magnificent and imposing sight, perched on a ridge and built in order to be seen by sailors and troops arriving by sea. It is remarkable that it has survived almost entirely intact since its construction in 430BC. Alongside it that day was a contemporary sculpture, a temporary display by the Polish sculptor Igor Mitoraj. The bronze 'Fallen Angel' figure contrasted starkly with the stone of the ancient monument.

On we walked, past an 800 year old olive tree and an olive grove until we reached the Temple of Hercules, the oldest of the temples, dating from the end of 6BC. In the evening the temples take on a lovely golden hue. From this point you have a superb vista of Agrigento and towards the coast.

The Temple of Hercules

 We spent about 3 hours here, soaking up the impressive views and the atmosphere. The place is huge; to see all of it you would really need a full day. Spring was a magical time to visit with a profusion of yellow and purple wildflowers in bloom and almond trees in blossom. Spread out over the valley and on a ridge resting between the city and the sea, you can feel what it must have been like here thousands of years ago.



The site is open every day, all year round 8.30am – 7pm. In July and August the closing time is 10pm. After sunset it is illuminated and I can imagine that it would look even more breathtaking.

The Magic of the Rocca Calascio

I finally succeeded in visiting the dramatic Rocca Calascio after a long time wishing to see it. The problem has always been getting there. We haven’t been brave enough to rent a car in Italy yet and have managed most of our trips so far around Abruzzo using buses and trains. The journey is through mountainous terrain with narrow rocky roads, many of which have no guardrails.

By bus from Pescara you have to change at L’Aquila and wait for four hours there to get another one to Calascio. As there is no bus back in the evening you would have to stay there overnight. Fortunately for us we discovered Daniele, a guide/driver for the region who speaks English and includes the Rocca Calascio in his tours.

Getting There

Daniele departed from Pescara in the direction of Rome and left the highway at the Bussi exit. We stopped along the way and marvelled at the atmospheric, ancient Abbazia di San Clemente in Casauria. It was built in 871 AD and just recently reopened following restoration after being damaged in the April 2009 earthquake.

Interior of Abbazia di San Clemente

Next we made a short stop at the church of San Pietro ad Oratorium with its ‘magic square’ (on the left hand side of the main portal) and we admired the crystal clear Tirino river near Capestrano.

Chiesa di San Pietro ad Oratorium

The Tirino River is claimed to be the cleanest in Europe

Then he drove in the direction of L’Aquila, turned at Ofena and continued on to Calascio. The whole journey took about an hour and a half. He bravely negotiated the breathtaking winding roads up to the small medieval village of Calascio at the foot of the castle. These roads are so narrow that when we met a string of cars going in opposite direction there was no room to pass; so the cars in front had to reverse back to a safe spot.

On another bend there was a break in the guardrail as if a car had crashed into it and the two sections were held together with a string of red and white striped ribbon to prevent cars from going over the edge!

The Village of Calascio

The houses in the village of Calascio curl around the base of the mountain forming a defensive wall. The startling scenery around it is of rugged towering mountain ranges over valleys and immense plains. We rambled through the narrow village streets and stopped at the Rifugio della Rocca, a charming small restaurant and hotel with a simple, rustic and cozy interior. If you take the bus this would be a lovely place to spend the night. Sheep graze on the hillsides around and the villagers cultivate lentils and saffron in the valley below.

Rifugio della Rocca, Calascio

Interior of Rifugio della Rocca

The Church of Santa Maria della Pietà

Reva, an American girl who is working her way around Italy, joined us for this tour. She also has an interesting blog about her travels called Here’s to Italy. Together we hiked from the village following a rocky path towards the impressive white limestone fortress. The day was sunny and hot 32C (96F) with incredibly clear blue skies. Halfway up the hill we passed the beautiful octagonal church of Santa Maria della Pietà standing on a solitary plateau.


Santa Maria della Pieta with the Corno Grande in the background

It was built between the 16th and 17th centuries, when the Rocca Calascio was the property of the Medicis. The door of the church was open and being curious we headed towards it eager to see how it looked inside. We considered ourselves fortunate as Daniele said that it was usually closed. Alas, there was a private ceremony taking place and we were not allowed to enter. John however got a chance to take this quick photo of the interior from the doorway with his phone.

Interior of Santa Maria della Pieta

The Fortress of Calascio

A little history: At 1460m above sea level the Rocca Calascio is the highest and one of the oldest fortresses in Italy. It was built as a single watchtower in the tenth century for military purposes. There is a walled courtyard with four cylindrical towers at the corners. A taller inner tower was added in the thirteenth century. It was badly damaged by an earthquake centuries ago and never rebuilt so now only the exterior walls remain. Even though it is in ruins it still looks imposing. This drawing by Silvio Germano shows how the Rocca Calascio would have looked in the thirteenth century…

Before getting to the drawbridge you have to climb over a very stony patch and there is no rail to hold on to.

We wandered through the fortress and the wonderful weather provided us with clear views for miles over the magnificent terrain: Campo Imperatore, the Navelli plain and the majestic Gran Sasso Mountains. The absolute silence, the immensity of the surroundings and the high mountains create magical views from the top of the fortress. The atmosphere here is of the Medieval Ages, a place between reality, fantasy and imagination, silence and solitude.

The Rocca Calascio in the province of L’Aquila is one of the most magical places in Abruzzo and this entire day made wishes come true for me. If you are looking for a guide we highly recommend Daniele. He is enthusiastic, friendly and generous and delighted to share his intensive knowledge of the region with visitors. Let yourself be carried away by the Rocca Calascio, its history and the beauty of its breathtaking landscape.

Further reading:
The Spectacular Castle, Rocca Calascio by Tatiana of Italian Slow Walks
Filmed in Abruzzo and Rocca Calascio by Bodach of About Abruzzo
An Italian Fort Worth a Walk To by Sammy of Life in Abruzzo
Getting to Calascio by Christina of Searching for Calascio

The town of Appignano di Macerata

The Town Hall in Appignano di Macerata

Whenever we’ve visited Le Marche we’ve always stayed with good friends in the pretty hill town of Appignano di Macerata (see map), in the heart of this picturesque region. It is situated exactly half way between the sea and the mountains, just a 30 minute drive each way. Not to be confused with Appignano del Tronto further south in Ascoli, this medieval town is known nationally for its production of ceramics (produced here for over 500 years) furniture and clothes.

The origins of Appignano date from Roman times. Appignano di Macerata is a charming town, 200m above sea level with a population of about 4,000 and about 10 kilometers from the provincial capital Macerata. The friendly people and the lifestyle here is very similar to what I’ve witnessed in Abruzzo. What I love about Appignano is how the locals:

• go to the bar in the morning for their cappuccino or caffe latte and a pastry
• chat with their friends and neighbours in the street
• break for a two hour lunch during the day and have a family meal around the kitchen table
• spend their evenings outdoors: the women sit outside in the street knitting or crocheting and chatting together and the men congregate in groups and play cards
• the children play outside even when it is dark
• the people call out to one another from across their balconies

These balconies are like little sanctuaries: cozy, romantic and fragrant

  There are many monuments of art and architecture to be seen in Appignano:

John and Stefano outside la Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista

• La Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista (St John the Baptist), built in the 16th century and renovated in the 18th century.

• La Chiesa dell'Addolorata (Our Lady of Sorrows) built for the first time in the Middle Ages and rebuilt in 1746. 
• Il Convento di Forano 1473, known for having hosted, according to tradition, St Francis of Assisi. 
• Villa Tusculano, a villa built in the Napoleonic era under the patronage of Count Leopoldo Armaroli. 
• Villa Forano – Winery. The Cellar is open everyday for winetasting from 8:30 to 12:00 and from 15:00 to 19:00 (except Thursdays and Sundays).

Events in Appignano

Like most towns throughout Italy, Appignano has its own special events that are unique to the area. During the first week of July, for three evenings, a festival called Bellente il Brigante takes place in the town hall square. It is a traditional dinner for about 180 people with typical dishes of the 19th century. More than 70 actors in period costume, extras, musicians and dancers represent the history to the spectators. Around the guests, the actors evoke the habits of Appignano’s inhabitants in 1812, when life was influenced by the contradictions of the Napoleonic state and by the legacy of the papal authority. Among the events of the period that are represented in this festival, there are the stories of the young Appignanese hero Pietro Masi and other characters who actually existed. The spectators are comfortably seated at long tables and enjoy local recipes from the 800s, served in typical bowls handmade by local artisans. The aim is to give tourists the opportunity to experience Appignano’s local traditions, culture, folklore, food and wine.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1JnqbFUNu3U

If you are interested in attending one of these evenings contact the Pro Loco of Appignano in Piazza Umberto I (Tel. 338 7878472) or send an email to prolocoappignano@alice.it

In mid-October Appignano hosts another gastronomic event called Leguminaria. It is dedicated to legumes (chickpeas, beans, lentils and roveja). Roveja is the dialect name for field pea which is only grown in the Sibillini Mountain National Park in Le Marche. All of the dishes are prepared according to traditional recipes and are served in earthenware bowls specially made for the occasion by Appignano’s master potters. Everyone who attends the meal can take home their bowl as a souvenir of the occasion. Much appreciated by lovers of rural tourism, the town of Appignano di Macerata is ideal for short or long term stay and is devoted to well-being and culture.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDgryWs7rKg

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Our friend Stefano kindly gave me local information about the best places to stay in Appignano, the bars, restaurants and pizzerias. Here is what he said about them:

Where to stay in Appignano:

"Osteria dei Segreti: located at the edge of Appignano is a very nice, quiet place in the middle of the countryside. There is a lovely panorama in front of the Sibillini mountains. It has good food with a nice price. They have 6 rooms and 6 small apartments to rent. This what their website says about the local cuisine:

Osteria dei Segreti

Rustic ambience and family oriented for a taste of local flavors, such as: cappellacci (pasta shaped like little hats) with fonduta (melted cheese) and truffles, gnocchi with a traditional meat sauce and ‘cargiù’ with porcini mushrooms and cherry tomatoes, grilled crescia (onion flavoured focaccia) the perfect complement to the delicious salami and pecorino Sibillini.



Villa Verdefiore

 Villa Verdefiore: hotel (agriturismo) and restaurant located on the edge of town with lovely rooms. A very nice place with a huge park all around it. Good for weddings, celebrations and meetings. Good food, price middle/high.

  La Colombaia: A beautiful country house with a Wellness Centre located at the edge of Appignano. Good food, middle/high price. Lovely outdoor swimming pool.



La Colombaia

 Where to Eat:

 - Ristorante Lord Byron, located in the historical main square. They serve home made food, typical of Le Marche; nice place, nice people, nice price!

 - Ristorante Le Grazie, situated not far from the centre. They also serve home made food. It is an old style restaurant for good food and a good price.

 Bars/Cafés in Appignano

 - Bar H, located in the industrial area of Appignano. Young people meet there. Bar H in Italian sounds like "baracca" which means chalet or cabin. In fact it is made of wood like a mountain cabin... in the middle of the industrial area!

 - Bar del Borgo: located in the borgo of Appignano. Middle aged and older people meet there.

 - Bar White Lady: located near Giuseppe's pottery shop Ceramiche fratelli Testa .Young people meet there. In Stefano’s opinion this one is the best bars in town.

 - Bar Giardino dei Tigli: located on the 'monte' of Appignano. We went there to have an ice cream last summer. Most young people meet there during summertime.

There are two pubs in Appignano and you can get a very good takeaway pizza at Pizza E Vai.

 - Dal Tramonto all'Alba Pub: nice place located in an old Italian cinema's room. The son of Giuseppe the potter, Mauro Testa, designed the interior. On Saturday and Sunday evenings families go there to have pizza for dinner because they serve great pizza. Sometimes they play live music.

 - La Cantina del Porto: located in the borgo. Nice place with good music, sometimes they play live music here also. There is an old story concerning Appignano when many years ago in Appignano there was a small port. Appignano has a little river called Monocchia. At the beginning of the 900s women went there to wash their clothes. Men went there too - to see the women's legs when they hitched up their long skirts! Stefano likes to think that this story is true. When older people meet a person from Appignano they say:

(In dialect): “Ah! Venghi da Pignà. Ce ru ‘portu’ de Pignà, ce vinio da gioenottu a vedè re gamme de re donne!”
(In Italian): Ah! vieni da Appignano. C'è il ‘porto’ ad Appignano. Ci venivo da giovane a verdere le gambe delle donne!
(In English): Ah! You come from Appignano. There is a port in Appignano. I used to go there when I was young to look at the women's legs! "

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Last but not least, Appignano has its own rock stars! They are a Rolling Stones tribute band who call themselves The Kingstones. Ciccio (Alessio), Stefano’s brother, is an excellent guitarist. They usually play in the nearby town of Macerata and went on tour last winter playing in Milano, Napoli and Salerno and it was a big success. Have a listen here and see how great they are! (Ciccio is wearing the black sleeveless shirt).



One of my favourite memories of our time in Appignano is of the night of San Lorenzo when Ciccio and Stefano serenaded us on a nearby hilltop while we watched the falling stars. It is a night I will remember forever…

Photo credit: Town Hall Appignano http://www.progressonews.com/index.php/2010/11/appignano-ancora-bandiera-verde

You might like: Ceramics in Appignano

The town of Capestrano, Abruzzo

The dramatically perched hilltown of Capestrano

Capestrano is a stunningly picturesque town of only 960 people in the province of L’Aquila in the Abruzzo region. It encapsulates everything I love about small town Italy. The people there are so friendly, especially to visitors who are few and far between. Hospitality, warmth and time is something they have in abundance. They make you feel so welcome and are proud to show off their area. It has wonderful restaurants, a fabulous gelateria and café called Bar Tagliente in the main piazza, churches, a monastery, an abbey, a gorgeous lake and a beautiful lofty towered castle atop the hill overlooking the town! It is set in a perfect location, 40km west of Chieti, on the edge of the Gran Sasso National Park, 160km east of Rome and only a 25 minute drive from the Adriatic coast.

Wide angle view of Capestrano

Photo credit: Giuliano Bianchini - Flickr

From its elevated position, this dramatically perched hilltown, 500m above sea level, gives spectacular views down the striking Tirino valley, dotted with aged olive and almond trees. The town is known not only for the Capestrano Warrior, but also for being the birthplace of the famous Franciscan monk Saint John of Capestrano (1386-1456) after whom the town was named. Incidentally, the town is twinned with San Juan Capistrano in California. (They spell it a little differently). In walking distance from the pretty main piazza is the magnificent monastery of St Francis erected by Saint John of Capestrano dating back to 1400.

Photo of  the St Francis Monastery from Wikipedia

The majestic Capestrano castle was built in the 13th century, next to the Tirino River and the Abbey of St. Peter ad Oratorium. I’ve translated some of the history relating to the castle from the website www.comunedicapestrano.it. The first document that refers to the name of Capestrano dates back to 1284, when King Charles I of Sicily gave the castle to Riccardo d’Acquaviva, the marquis of Capestrano. In 1462 the castle passed on to Antonio Piccolomini, nephew of Pope Pius II, who enlarged the castle with new towers and battlements. By 1579 the castle was known by its official title ‘Piccolomini Castle’. Then it was sold to the Grand Duke of Tuscany and in 1743 was owned by the King of Naples. In 1860 it passed on to the Savoys.

Capestrano Castle

These days, Capestrano castle is the headquarters for the mayor of the town and as a result it’s very well preserved and is the site for many of Capestrano’s annual festivals. Admission is free – which I think is unusual in Italy. My friend Gianluigi once quipped that: ‘Only the air in Italy is free’!

Piazza del Mercato, Capestrano

The elegant baroque ‘Piazza del Mercato’ has lovely little shops, restaurants, a beautiful parish church - Santa Maria della Pace - and even an Irish pub called The Highlander! This scenic town has an interesting juxtaposition of medieval and renaissance architecture.

I took my pictures on a balmy August evening as the sun was throwing its golden mellow light across the rolling landscape and the soft shadows of the buildings were beginning to lengthen. We had a lovely stroll around the cobbled, steep medieval streets with their narrow winding alleyways, before touring the charming castle, monastery and its beautiful frescoed cloister.

Statue of St John of Capestrano and frescoes in the cloister

In the vicinity of Capestrano you can also visit the charming Romanesque church of San Pietro ad Oratorium (1100) and admire the sparkling, clear waters of pretty Lago di Capo d’Acqua.

Recommended restaurants in the area are: Ristorante San Giovanni in the main Piazza del Mercato and in the nearby village of Preciano, Ristorante La Sorgente, Via Presciani, 36 (which serves trout and freshwater shrimp from the Tirino River).

*Update: For a more detailed and interesting account of Piccolomini Castle and its history have a look at Tatiana's post on her Italian Slow Walks blog - a beautiful blog with wonderful photos and descriptions of special places in Abruzzo.

** Another interesting post about Capestrano with great photos can be found on Bodach's excellent blog About Abruzzo.

My other post about Capestrano: Mid-August Lunch in Capestrano

Anyone who is fascinated by art, history, architecture, beautiful landscape, regional foods and folk traditions will love this idyllic town of Capestrano! To end, here is a little slideshow that I made of the town:





How to get to Capestrano:
By Bus: ARPA L'Aquila/Pescara, (only a few times during the day)
By Car: A24, exit L'Aquila, or A25, exit Bussi, then SS 17 L'Aquila-Pescara

The Warrior of Capestrano, Chieti

Visitors to the National Archaeological Museum in Chieti today hoping to see the famous limestone statue of The Warrior of Capestrano (Il Guerriero di Capestrano) were astonished to find that it had been removed from its plinth. The priceless statue was taken from the museum early this morning without the permission of the mayor of Chieti, Francesco Ricci.

This renowned artifact dates from the 6th century BC. I had been researching this statue for my blog post as I was very impressed when I saw it in August 2007. I was astounded to read about its removal, on an Italian news website today. (Primadanoi.it)

This statue was first discovered in 1934 by Michele Castagna, a farmer who was digging in his vineyard near Capestrano. It has since become the recognized symbol of the Abruzzo region. The imposing sculpture standing at 2.09m is believed to be the funeral effigy of King Nevio Pompuledio, leader of the Vestini tribe in Abruzzo.

It has supports on both sides and is mounted on a plinth. The inscription on one of the supports (written in South-Picene dialect) bears his name - King Nevio Pompuledio.

He wears a mask and decorative headgear and is dressed in armor protecting his chest and back: a wide belt encircles his waist; he carries a short sword, knife and axe; he also wears a necklace, armlets and a pair of sandals. He is considered the embodiment of the Italic warrior.

Apparently Silvio Berlusconi wanted this precious masterpiece at the G8 headquarters near l’Aquila as a room decoration to impress Barack Obama and the other world leaders. The G8 is due to take place next week in a police barracks in Coppito near L’Aquila from 8-10 July. The mayor of Chieti announced just yesterday that the warrior wouldn't be moved from the museum, because of the risks of transportation as well as the risk of aftershocks in l'Aquila; but this morning the statue was taken away at 8.30am.

The act of moving an extremely fragile, 2,600 year old statue from a museum just to use as a room adornment seems reckless to me. Why couldn’t they have used a replica? Two perfect copies already exist (made from plaster) one in the Museum of Roman Civilization in Rome and another one in Capestrano castle! Although the original statue appears in good condition, the legs and feet of the warrior are already fragile and in fact metal inserts have been used to repair fractures. The 65cm circular warrior's headgear is detachable, so there is a chance that it may break. The risk of damage to this precious statue is great.

Let’s hope that this old warrior is returned safe and sound as soon as possible to the Archaeological Museum in Chieti…

NATIONAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM OF ABRUZZO
VILLA COMUNALE CHIETI
Tel: +039 0871 331668 – +039 0871 330955.

Opening times: 9-18.30 every day

Admission: 4 Euros; free for under eighteen and over sixty
Free for students and teachers

Photos courtesy of www.musei.abruzzo.it


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Il Guerriero di Capestrano 

I visitatori al Museo Archeologico a Chieti che oggi, 4 luglio, hanno voluto ammirare la statua celebrativa del Guerriero di Capestrano sono stati sorpresi di scoprire che la scultura era scomparsa.

L’inestimabile statua di pietra calcare è stata portata via dal museo stamattina presto, senza il permesso del sindaco di Chieti, Francesco Ricci. (Primadanoi.it)

Questa statua, databile del VI secolo AC, fu ritrovata nel 1934 da Michele Castagna, durante i lavori agricoli per l’impianto di una vigna nella località Capestrano. Essa raffigura un guerriero dell’antico popolo italico dei Piceni – il Re Nevio Pompuledio.

In costume militare con le braccia ripiegate sul petto, l’altezza della statua senza la base raggiunge 2,09m. La testa è protetta da un elmo che copre le orecchie e da una maschera sul volto. Porta una spada, ed un pugnale appesi davanti al petto, mentre con la destra regge una piccola ascia. Gli ornamenti sono costituiti da una collana rigida con pendaglio e da bracciali sugli avambracci. Il copricapo, caratteristico con le sue larghe tese (65cm) che lo fanno assomigliare ad un sombrero, è stato interpretato come un elmo da parata.

La figura poggia su un piedistallo ed è sorretta da due pilastrini laterali, sui quali sono incise delle lance. Su un sostegno vi è un’iscrizione in lingua Sud-Picena con il nome del Re Pompuledio. Oggi costituisce un capolavoro di ineguagliabile valore artistico e storico ed e' il simbolo riconosciuto dell’Abruzzo.

Silvio Berlusconi ha voluto avere questa statua come decorazione per la sala del G8. La direttrice del museo a Chieti ha ribadito le sue perlessità sul suo trasferimento a causa della fragilità della statua. La vulnerabilità del reperto è dovuta alla natura delicata della pietra calcare con la quale è stata realizzata, come per i punti di frattura presenti alle gambe e alle caviglie …e all’Aquila i pericoli eventuali del sisma sono ancora in atto…

Oltretutto, era disponibile due copie perfette dell’originale - uno nel museo della Civiltà Romana a Roma e l'altro a Castello Piccolomini, in grado di suscitare altrettanto interesse e ammirazione!

Spero che restituiscano il Guerriero di Capestrano al museo a Chieti al più presto ed in buone condizioni…incrociamo le dita per questo antico guerriero…

The city of Chieti/La Città di Chieti

Photo credit: Fabrizio Costa -- Chieti Centro Storico

Feeling refreshed after an hours rest, we were ready to explore the city of Chieti (pronounced key-yay-tee). It is considered to be the main city of culture in Abruzzo, along with l’Aquila.

Chieti (see map) is a charming, elegant hilltop city with ancient streets and alleys, situated on the right bank of the Pescara River at 330 mt above sea level. It is one of the oldest cities in Italy, even older than Rome. It has a population of about 51,300 (as of 2017). The economy of the city is traditionally based on agriculture (cereals, vineyards and olive groves). It is enriched by traditions of handicrafts of artistic lace and beautiful ceramics.

From the hilltop part of the city called ‘High Chieti’ (Chieti Alta) you can visit historical sites, churches and monuments going back to the Roman era and some from Norman times.

The top ten sights in the city of Chieti are:

1.   The Cathedral of St Justin
2.   Remains of Roman Temples
3.   Church of St Francis
4.   Costantino Barbella Art Gallery
5.   Museo Universitario
6.   Archeological Museum - La Civitella with amphitheatre
7.   Remains of Thermal Baths
8.   Teatro Marrucino
9.   The Villa Comunale
10.  National Archeological Museum with the Warrior of Capestrano

The Cathedral of Saint Justin (dating back to the 9th century)

                                                                                   

Cattedrale San Giustino

Remains of Roman Temples (2nd century BC)

The church of St Francis (13th century Baroque style)

Dome of St Francis church

Interior of church of St Francis

The Costantino Barbella Art Gallery

Museo Universitario

The modern Civitella Museum beside the well preserved Roman Amphitheatre is well worth a visit. In the summer they hold outdoor concerts here. There are also the remains of Roman Thermal Baths (currently under restoration) nearby. Further digs in Chieti have uncovered the core of Teate - the main town of the Marrucini, an ancient Italic tribe that became a Roman colony in the first century BC.

Amphitheatre Chieti

Terme Romane Chieti

Terme Romane Mosaic floor

Teatro Romano

And then there's my favourite, the Villa Comunale –- a beautiful park which is also home to the National Archeological Museum of Abruzzo.

I feel a special connection to this beautiful city because it was the first place that I visited in Italy back in 1994 and it feels "like home" for me there.

La Fontana Monumentale - Villa Comunale Chieti

Giardino della Villa Comunale

Neptune statue - Villa Comunale Chieti

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My YouTube video of Chieti:

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 Ci siamo sentiti rinfrescati dopo un’ora di riposo, e siamo stati pronti per esplorare la città di Chieti. È considerata, insieme all’Aquila, la città della cultura in Abruzzo.

Chieti, con una popolazione di circa 51.300 abitanti (2017) sorge su un colle a circa 330 metri sulla destra del fiume Pescara. Chieti è una delle città più antiche d’Italia, più antiche che Roma.

L’economia della città, tradizionalmente agricola (cereali, uva ed olive), si è arricchita tramite un fiorente artigianato delle belle ceramiche e dei merletti.

Dal colle che dà sulla città, detto ‘Chieti Alta’, si possono visitare siti storici, chiese e monumenti, risalenti all’epoca romana e quella dei normanni.

Fra tutti:

• La Cattedrale di San Giustino
• I Tempietti Romani
• La Chiesa di San Francesco
• La Pinacoteca Costantino Barbella
• Museo Archeologico - La Civitella con l'anfiteatro romano
• Le Terme Romane
• Museo Universitario
• Il Teatro Marrucino
• La Villa Comunale -- un bellissimo parco
• Il Museo Archeologico Nazionale d’Abruzzo con il Guerriero di Capestrano

Terme Romane Chieti

http://www.abruzzocitta.it/aziendecomuni/chieti/immagini.html

How to get to Chieti: Buses and trains leave you at Chieti Scalo down in the valley, from where it's a ten-minute bus journey up the hill to Chieti proper - 5km away. The no.1 bus stops near the Cathedral.