The Foods of South-Eastern Sicily

We spent almost two weeks in the beautiful southeast of Sicily visiting some of the dazzlingly beautiful Baroque towns of the Val di Noto: Catania, Ragusa Ibla, Modica, Noto and Scicli. The breathtaking architecture charmed us just as much as the exotic new foods that we tried there. The Greeks, Romans, Arabs and Normans have all influenced Sicily’s architecture as well as its cuisine and this is what makes it so different from the rest of Italy.

Here are my 10 favourite Sicilian foods:

1. Sicilian antipasti – they are full of contrasting flavours: caponata – a ratatouille of vegetables (usually aubergines, green olives and peppers) in a sweet and sour sauce, stuffed sardines, herring, salumi and a variety of cheeses.

Antipasti from Trattoria Iblantica in Ragusa Ibla

Antipasti from Trattoria  De Fiore in Catania

2. Pesce Spada (Swordfish) cubed and mixed with zucchini and ‘cavatelli’ handmade pasta.

Cavatelli, pesce spada e zucchine

3. Cassata Siciliana – a rich dessert made of sponge cake sprinkled with Marsala wine and filled with ricotta and chocolate chips. The sides are covered with marzipan and the top with fondant icing and then it is decorated with candied fruits.

4. Sicilian cheeses – especially Caciocavallo – a firm cow’s milk cheese, Pecorino – a sheep’s milk cheese flavoured with peppercorns and Provola dei Nebrodi - an aged cow’s milk cheese.

Caciocavallo Ragusano

5. Pasta dishes: Pasta alla Norma – fried aubergines (melanzane) with sweet Pachino tomatoes, basil, garlic, onion and ricotta salata tossed in pasta.

Pasta alla Norma
from Ristorante il Barocco - Ragusa Ibla

Another delicious pasta dish is Ravioli al pesto di pistacchi - ravioli filled with fresh ricotta and covered with a pesto made of pistachios from Bronte, then dusted with cocoa powder.

Ravioli ricotta al Pesto di Pistacchi

6. Gelato – Gelati DiVini in Ragusa Ibla serve wine-flavoured ice-creams. I had an unforgettable Brachetto d’Acqui along with mandorle tostate (toasted almonds).

7. Arancini - the much-loved street food called ‘little oranges’ are delightful golden balls of deep-fried saffron rice, stuffed with tomato ragu, peas and mozzarella cheese. The rice balls are rolled in flour, coated with beaten egg and covered in breadcrumbs and are best eaten hot. In Palermo they’re shaped like oranges and in Catania they're more pear-shaped. They make a quick, satisfying lunch.

Arancino from Catania

8. Cannoli – Sicily’s most famous dessert – fried pastry tubes filled with sweetened ricotta and chocolate chips then dipped in chopped pistachio nuts and a candied cherry is added to both ends. In Catania we found a pasticceria where we could watch them being filled at the last moment (preparati sul momento) so that the pastry didn’t have time to go soggy.

Cannolo Siciliano

9. Warm brioche buns filled with gelato made an indulgent breakfast treat – a Sicilian specialty.

Brioche Calde con Gelato

10. Risotto ai frutti di mare – with mussels, shrimp, squid and clams - the best risotto I’ve ever had!

Risotto from Trattoria Vecchi Sapori in Catania

This is just a small selection of the variety of sumptuous foods that you can find in Southeastern Sicily. No doubt I've  left out many more popular dishes that are worth mentioning. Which Sicilian foods would you recommend?

Here is a clickable link to reader Paul's great recommendations for food in Sicily - in particular the use of wild foods such as fennel, asparagus, prickly pears, capers, sweet chestnuts and mushrooms. http://www.wildfoodandrecipes.co.uk/2010_09_01_archive.html

Catania's Street Markets

As we walked towards the Fontana dell'Amenano in Piazza del Duomo we could hear the frenzied cries of the fishmongers selling their catch of the day. We took the steps down the left hand side of the fountain and had this view of the market below.

Catania’s characteristic fish market Mercato della Pescheria glows with sights, sounds and strong smells. Red tarpaulins suspended as tents and colourful umbrellas protect the wares from the elements. Each fishmonger has a table selling different selections of fish, freshly caught that morning: swordfish, cuttlefish, tuna, eels, sardines, ray, lobsters, clams, octopi, squid and more.

With arms flailing, voices raised and chanting slogans, the fishmongers attract and negotiate with customers. The meat vendors sell all kinds of meat. I couldn’t look at the carcasses of lambs and goats hanging upside down as they were quite gruesome.

Further down the street are the colourful stalls of vegetables and nuts and fruit, everything perfectly fresh, seasonal and of high quality. My favourite is the sweet Sicilian Tarocco blood orange. You can taste samples of the wonderful Sicilian cheeses on Via Pardo; peppery aged Pecorino, Caciocavallo, Ragusano and Provola - all were delicious.

The Catania market is crowded and chaotic, not polished like other markets I’ve visited on mainland Italy but more traditional, more authentic and more real. Things haven’t changed here for decades.

A second market can be found at the end of Via Etnea in Piazza Carlo Alberto. Dozens of vendors sell clothes, bags, jewellery and household items as well as food at affordable prices.

The market in Catania is great place to soak up the local electric atmosphere and is an unforgettable experience for all of your senses!

Open Monday to Saturday 8am - 2pm.

Ski Lesson for Beginners on Mottarone - Stresa

Last January my family and I decided to take a winter holiday in Stresa, Lake Maggiore. We have been there in every other season and so decided to give winter a try. Skiing for the first time was also an exciting prospect. Some friends from Turin joined us for a day of fun on Mt. Mottarone, which is just one hour north of Milan.

View of Isola Pescatori, Isola Madre and Isola Bella

We took the cable car (Funivia Stresa-Mottarone) from the hamlet of Carciano, up to the summit of Mottarone (1,491 metres). During the 20 minute ride up you have breathtaking views over the lake and the three islands. If you are arriving by car you could also reach the top from Stresa by going up the scenic 9km 'Borromeo Road'.

When you leave the cable car you can take the two-seater chairlifts to the summit. From the top on a clear day you can enjoy a full 360° view over seven lakes to the summit of Monte Rosa and the Alps.

As it was our first time to ski we booked a group ski lesson at the ski school (Scuola Sci). We went on a Friday so it wasn't too crowded and there was no waiting in line. Mottarone is very suited to first timers with eight ski runs for beginner skiers and snowboarders. There are also ten ski runs for intermediates and three for expert skiers. The area also features spectacular cross-country trails.

We rented the ski boots, skis, poles (and a helmet for our daughter Amy) at the ‘Sciottalolo’ rental shop near top of the chairlifts. You need to bring some form of ID when you are renting out the equipment. We didn’t know this before going, but luckily our friend Serena had hers and that sufficed. The instructor, Antonella, first helped us with the very basic task of attaching the skis to the ski boots. Serena kindly took the photographs.

Next Antonella had us practise gliding with the skis and then we went on to a type of conveyor belt up to the first level. She showed us the technique called the ‘snowplow’. She spoke English well and had great patience with us.We had to point our skis inwards towards each other, pull our knees together and continually push our feet apart. It takes a bit of time to get used to this strange position and I used muscles that I didn’t even know I had.

We learned that as the skis become more parallel, the faster you go; the more you snowplow, the more you slow down. In order to stop, we were told to just snowplow more widely and with more tilt. It helps if you have strong legs and have a good sense of balance. We practised this over and over going to a higher level each time.

Our daughter turned out to be a natural skier and showed us up. She had no fear at all and I think this is what made the difference. We were worried that if we fell over we might not be able to get back up or look foolish attempting to do so. I was surprised just how hard it is to ski but did have fun trying. It looks so easy when you watch other skiers; even little ones could manage really well. I’ve heard that after the first 3-6 hours you get the knack of it.

Afterwards we had a lovely lunch at Al Rifugio delle Stelle which is beside the ski school. Their menu of typical Piemontese foods included: polenta with mushrooms, game, veal, a good selection of regional wine and homemade pastries. The room has lovely views of the Alps and Monte Rosa.

Monte Rosa

Fil da Fer

We finished off the meal with a drink of the traditional local specialty Fil da Fer (as recommended by Dana of Stresa Sights). It is made from whiskey, milk, sugar and egg yolks and served warm. The others wanted theirs with whipped cream on top and said that it tasted like a dessert. It was a big hit with everyone.

After lunch we rented snow sledges. It cost €5 for the afternoon and they provided hours of fun. Later in the day we chose to go back down to the cable car by the alpine coaster/bobsleigh called Alpyland – 750m of toboggan track with speeds of up to 40kph - it was thrilling!

Younger children might enjoy the little ski train operates every day from December 26th to January 9th and on weekends throughout the year.

If you are in the Milan area and fancy going skiing why not give Mottarone a try? It is a great experience and highly recommended. It is a fantastic place to visit and by the way, January 22nd is World Snow Day!

For more detailed information about Mottarone see Dana’s wonderful blog Stresa Sights.

Photo credits: cable car and panorama - distrettolaghi.it

Italian Christmas Cookies - Cenci alla Fiorentina

This December, Stephanie (my son’s girlfriend) and I made delicious Italian Christmas cookies called Cenci alla Fiorentina or as she also calls them - ‘Ewonds’. She is American and has Italian ancestors and here is her Grandma’s recipe. Thanks to Stephanie’s Mom for writing it down!

Preparation time: 1 hr +
Frying time between 1 - 2 minutes per batch
Deep Fryer Temp: 350 Degrees F (180 C).

Ingredients:

• 4 cups good quality all-purpose flour (Grandma and Stephanie’s Mom use ‘Gold Medal’ – we used Odlums)
• 6 eggs
• 1/2 cup vegetable oil (Her mother recommends Wesson)
• 1/2 tablespoon vanilla extract
• 1 tablespoon cinnamon
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• 1/4 tsp salt
• Vegetable oil for frying (Wesson)
• ¾ cup of confectioner’s sugar (icing sugar) for sprinkling

To make the pastry:

In a deep bowl, add the flour, baking powder, salt and cinnamon and mix it up thoroughly. Next make a well in the middle bringing the flour up the sides of the bowl. Then add the eggs, oil and vanilla extract.

With your hands, mix the flour down into the middle. The entire kneading process will take at least a good 15 minutes or so. Once the mixture is combined, dump it out on the table and continue kneading the dough until it is completely smooth and elastic. When you press your finger in the dough, it should spring back. Place it back in the bowl, cover with a towel and let it rest for approximately 20 minutes.

Break the dough into small balls. Do not add flour to the table before rolling it out. There is enough oil in the mixture to keep it from sticking. (Stephanie mentioned that it actually felt like a good hand moisturizer!)

Then begin to roll out the dough with a normal rolling pin or an Italian one – a mattarello. (When it was about 1/8” thick, Stephanie switched to a double-ended pastry roller to speed up the process.) She brought this one back from America. I had never seen one like this before in Ireland.

At this stage, you could use a manual pasta machine if you have one, to get the pastry dough paper thin. The pastry has to be almost transparent; you need to be able to see the table or countertop through it.

Next, cut it into diamond shapes with a wavy pastry cutter - each side should be approx 3” long. Then cut two straight slits into the middle of each shape.

Carefully lift up a piece at a time, pull up the centre, take one corner and push it through the loop creating a bow. Place all the bows on a cookie sheet before you begin frying. When the sheet is filled, cover with a towel to keep them from drying out.

Frying the cookies:

Once all the dough is rolled, cut and tied, heat a deep pan with about 3-4 inches of vegetable oil until very hot. When the frying begins turn down the oil so that it does not burn. Cook about 6 cookies at a time, 1-2 minutes for each batch and take them out of the oil with a slotted spoon. Place on a paper towel to drain, then immediately sprinkle with some icing sugar because you want the sugar to stick.

As they cook, place them in a large container lined with wax paper. As you complete a layer, sprinkle the confectioner’s sugar over the cookies. Repeat the cooking, sprinkling and layering until all the ‘ewonds’ are done. They taste light and crispy and not too sweet.

 Cenci alla Fiorentina are also associated with the Epiphany and Carnevale and they are a lot of fun to make. They are very similar to 'Chiacchiere' and go very well with a chocolate dipping sauce. See MariaGiovanna's wonderful new blog Sharing My Italy for her recipe. 

 Do you recognize this recipe and what do you call these cookies?
Buon Natale!

Trabocco Punta Torre, Abruzzo Coast

The traditional fishing huts that are dotted along Abruzzo’s coastline have intrigued me since I first saw them  in Francavilla al Mare in 1994. They are called Trabocchi (pronounced tra’bok-key) and last year Bodach of About Abruzzo had great close up pictures of them in his fascinating post Lunch on a Trabocco. I was thrilled that Daniele included a visit to one on his itinerary so that I could see one up close with my own eyes. This August we went to see Trabocco Punta Torre with him, just south of San Vito Chietino.

From the gravel path that leads to the trabocco, we crossed the wooden footbridge with sides made of rope. The trabocco is positioned where the sea has a suitable depth (of at least 6m) and is in the shelter of rocky peaks. A friendly local was here on vacation with his family and he took the time to show us around and answer our questions. This is typical of the warmth of the Abruzzese people.

How does a trabocco work?

Fishermen lower the huge meshed nets to the seabed from a platform at the back, then crank them up when full of fish by an intricate system of pulleys and winches.
                           

There is a large pole in the middle of the platform with a bar going through the centre horizontally. The fisherman pushes on this as he walks around in circles to raise or lower the large nets which are supported by four long arms of wood. He kindly showed Amy the fishing nets and pleased her by saying that he threw back any small fish that got caught.

What does a trabocco look like?
To me it looks like a tree house on stilts, joined to the shore by a long wooden bridge. The famous Italian writer Gabriele D’Annunzio describes one as:

‘A strange fishing machine all made of boards and beams, like a giant spider.’

There was a small kitchen inside the hut with a gas burner, table and sink. He pointed out that the rope hammock was not part of the original trabocco (but it blended in very well). He had even slept there for a couple of nights, but said that sometimes the sound of the waves crashing against the rocks kept him awake.

Some are completely original; others are skillfully reconstructed and made stronger to withstand the Mistral wind. They need regular maintenance and are made from locally sourced acacia wood and Aleppo pine as they are water and salt resistant.

How old are the trabocchi?
They are on average more than 200 years old and originally were used purely as a unique method of fishing from the land instead of using a boat. The trabocchi are a distinctive architectural element and have become a symbol of the history and culture of Abruzzo. The Trabocco Punta Torre was built by Domenico Verì in 1873 and is still owned by the Verì family.

Where can you find the trabocchi?

They stretch from the sandy beaches of Francavilla al Mare right down to the vineyards and olive groves of San Salvo, a coastline of incomparable beauty embellished by these structures. Along the old railway line there is a lovely bike path La Via Verde which follows the coast and would be a nice way to spend a day admiring these unique fishing machines as you cycle along Chieti province coastal cycle path.

Trabocchi Coast Fish Restaurants


How many trabocchi are still in use?
Numbers differ depending on which site you read, but according to some accounts there are about 28 trabocchi still in operation along The Trabocchi Coast. Most are private property; some open only for events such as the Cala Lenta.  Fifty years ago there were 65 of them. Then they began to disappear one by one and risked extinction. In 1997 a new law was made in Abruzzo to finance their revival and there was a renewed focus on eco-tourism and since then the trabocco has become a symbol of protection and a tourist attraction. Some of the trabocchi on the north pier of Pescara have been gradually stranded - they are no longer over the water but are surrounded by sand.

Which of the trabocchi are used as fish restaurants?

After a little research I found that at least seven of the trabocchi are used as fish restaurants:

1. Valle Grotte - San Vito Chietino

2. Punta Isolata - Punta Aderci
3. Pesce Palombo - Fossacesia Marina
4. Punta Rocciosa - Fossacesia
5. Punta Cavalluccio - Rocca San Giovanni
6. Punta Punciosa - Rocca San Giovanni
7. Punta Penna - Vasto Marina

They usually serve evening meals. (Click on the links to find out more information about them and how to get there. Some of the sites are in Italian - just press the google translate button at the top of the page.)

In recent years the owners of these ones have begun serving local fish dishes from June through September (dinner is a fixed price of €50 per person - reservations required).  There are many starters and the main course comes with homemade pasta. You can eat traditional delicacies such as octopus, anchovies, calamari, fish stew (brodetto), stuffed mussels and squid, shrimp  and prawns, seafood and fried fish of all kinds. Water, wine, coffee and dessert are also included in this price.

Next year I plan to return and have the experience of dining in one of these unique restaurants suspended over the Adriatic. The Trabocco Pesce Palombo looks like the perfect place for dinner by candlelight with a difference...




Daniele also brought us to Punta Penna Nature Reserve and the Abbey of San Giovanni di Venere on this day; read about our Journey to San Giovanni in Venere. See more of his great itineraries on his website:  http://www.abruzzowithyou.com/

Cookout in Campo Imperatore

We left Santo Stefano di Sessanio in a hurry because Daniele, our driver, had told us that the place where we were going to eat in Campo Imperatore closed at 8pm. The road curved around mountain tops and wound its way through the Gran Sasso National Park past sheep and cattle tracks. Then we descended into a vast plateau and came across a herd of cows, some of which blocked the road for a few minutes! Slowly they made their way to the other side and we continued on.

Daniele told us that some of the Spaghetti Westerns - a sub-genre of Western films dating from the mid-1960’s - were filmed here (as well as in Spain). As we drove along past the miles of open, uninterrupted land surrounded by mountains - I could just imagine cowboys galloping by. It really does look like the old Wild West complete with semi-wild horses, golden eagles and peregrine falcons flying overhead. This unspoiled landscape provided the perfect background scenery for these films.

The Corno Grande in the distance

In the lower plateau of Campo Imperatore there are wooden log cabins that were originally built to equip the cinematographic sets of these legendary Spaghetti Westerns. Years later these cabins were left to the families of shepherds. Ristoro Mucciante is one of these and is open from April to October.

Inside the cabin they sell arrosticini (mini lamb kebabs - 1cm cubed lamb on sticks), sausages, pecorino cheese, beer, olive oil and some local wine.

Outside there are many wooden benches and tables scattered around and several burning braziers available so that you can cook your own meat after you purchase it. We cooked it in two batches, about 10 minutes for each one. It is a fun and very special way to enjoy typical Abruzzese food. The embers in the charcoal of the coal brazier (fornacella) were already glowing. The air temperature dropped to 18C so it was also a nice way to warm our hands, because we actually started to feel cold. It was strange, because back in Ireland 18C would be considered to be a warm summer’s day.

They provide the disposable plates, knives, forks and plastic cups, so you don’t have to bring anything of your own. The price for 50 skewers of arrosticini, bread, olive oil, 5 sausages, water and beer was €45 (not bad for a meal for 5 people)! If you'd prefer to have this food served to you rather than take the risk of cooking it for yourself, you could try the other Ristoro in Campo Imperatore that Bodach of About Abruzzo went to.

Arrosticini

I had my first taste of arrosticini on ferragosto 2007 and I loved them from the very first bite. Accompanied simply by sausages, crusty bread drizzled with delicious olive oil (from Loreto Aprutino) and Perroni beer this rustic traditional food was so enjoyable. The sun was setting as we took in the expansive surroundings, sitting out the middle of nowhere.

When the lights of the Ristoro went out Daniele put his car headlights on until we finished eating as we were the last to leave. Then he announced dramatically “and now for the light show - everyone look up” …

He switched off the headlights and we were awe-struck as we gazed up at the layers of thousands of stars in the black night sky. We could even see the Milky Way directly above us. It was truly an amazing sight, humbling and magical, and a perfect end to an unforgettable day…

The mesmerizing Milky Way

Where is Campo Imperatore?

Click on map to enlarge