Ten Attractions in Varenna - Lake Como

Varenna from Bellagio

Following on from my previous post about places where you can eat outdoors in Varenna, here are ten of the main attractions that we found during our time there:

1. Villa Monastero – From the main piazza (which is free of through traffic), if you walk along the road going south you will soon come to the Villa Monastero and gardens. This is a gorgeous lakeside villa with extravagant gardens; the slopes are quite steep in places.Villa Monastero was built in the early 13th century and was a Cistercian convent dedicated to St Mary Magdalene. We spent more than five peaceful hours strolling around the alluring, lavish gardens with rare Mediterranean and tropical plants and flowers. It is a photographic paradise and famed for its citrus trees. There is another lovely café here called Al Monastero where you can have a break for lunch in stunning surroundings. You can also tour the villa, furnished with Renaissance pieces, baroque lounges, Louis IX furnishings and Gobelin tapestries. There is a long lakeside promenade, with paths and terraces set against a beautiful mountain backdrop. See their website for further information:
http://www.villamonastero.eu/

Villa Monastero

2. Castello di Vezio This partially ruined castle at the top of the hill dates back to the 7th century was allegedly founded by the Lombard Queen Theodolinda. Starting from the main piazza there are signs that lead you along a steep mule track up to it. We took about 45 minutes to reach the castle, through woodland, past wildflowers, cats, butterflies and an olive grove. Once you arrive, you can walk across the drawbridge and climb to the top of the tower for a breathtaking 360˚ view of the lake, the town below and over to the Bellagio headland. Up here you can also meet a falconer who breeds birds of prey such as: barn owls, buzzards and hawks. He holds falconry displays at weekends and you can admire astonishing flights during good weather.For further information see http://www.castellodivezio.it/

Castello di Vezio

3. The Lovers' Walk begins at the departure point for ferries, boats and hydrofoils to a stretch of the lungolago past a small harbour area to a line of lakeside restaurants, pretty shops and gelaterias. It reminded me of the Via dell’Amore in the Cinque Terre - a scenic walkway which clings to the rocks and it is flat and comfortable to stroll along. It is lit up beautifully at night. On the waterfront is a lovely promenade with hanging willows, cypress trees and wood-planked pedestrian bridges.



La Passerella
The Lover's Walk

4.Villa Cipressi is situated in an enchanting position on the shores of Lake Como with a beautiful and rich botanical garden containing towering cypress trees, flowering azaleas, rhododendron, magnolias and wisteria. The Villa Cipressi is converted into a hotel and looks like a gorgeous place to stay or have a wedding reception. The botanical pathway winds through centuries-old gardens with five terraces of luxuriant vegetation that reach down to the lake. Fine sculptures are scattered throughout the manicured compact gardens; it is much easier to get around than the gardens of Villa Monastero. From the lovely restaurant right on the lake shore you have heavenly views of the lake.

Gardens of Villa Cipressi

5. Fiumelatte: you can get to this little frazione of Varenna from Piazza San Giorgio on a lovely path about 1km from the town. It gets its name (river of milk) from the shortest river in Italy, which is only 250m long. The river flows for six months a year, a cascade of bubbling white foam. It springs from a cave in the rock that has had several famous explorers including Leonardo Da Vinci. There is a lovely delicatessen to the right of the river called 'La Bottega di Fiumelatte.' http://www.fiumelatte.it/

6. Churches. The large Romanesque Parish Church of San Giorgio in the main piazza has three naves and twin aisles and was consecrated in 1313. Its façade is embellished by a large fresco portraying Saint Christopher, to bring luck to passing travellers.  The most precious work of art inside is the coloured stone Deposition of Christ. There are also 14th and 15th-century frescoes and polyptychs by Como-based artists. The church was restored in 1957. On Good Friday there was a procession leading from this church with stops at various Stations of the Cross dotted around the town. The impressive belltower chimes on the hour and half hour (but not during the night)!

Chiesa di San Giorgio

Good Friday in Varenna

The Oratorio di San Giovanni Battista is tucked away in the corner of the old town centre. This tenth-century church is the oldest in Varenna and one of the first to be erected along the shores of Lake Como. The building is well-preserved, typically Romanic in style, although the paintings and frescoes that embellish it are from the fifteenth century. It is always open and worth having a look inside.

Oratorio di San Giovanni Battista

Interior of Oratorio San Giovanni Battista

The Chiesa Santa Maria delle Grazie is a 17th century church overlooking the main piazza. It has a Baroque interior, a wooden altar, polychrome wooden statues and paintings from the 16th century.

La Chiesa Santa Maria delle Grazie

7. Art Studios. Varenna has a little artist’s community. The Gallery Roberto Butta has gorgeous paintings of Lake Como and offers a world-wide delivery service. http://www.robertobutta.it/

The DeMaria Studio D’Arte has a permanent display of original oil paintings for Paul Demaria Guaitamacchi collectors worldwide. http://www.pauldemaria.com/

Annamaria Rivolta and her daughter Francesca Porro have beautiful pastel watercolour paintings and give painting lessons too. You can find them at Contrada Pirelli, 6.

8. Exploring Varenna's many quaint narrow lanes and alleyways.

Charming alleyways in Varenna

9. The Ornithological Museum is located inside the tourist information office near Villa Monastero and the main piazza. It contains 700 species of labeled stuffed birds displayed on several floors, which you can examine up close. On the top floor there is also a large stuffed polar bear. This is a fun place for children and nature lovers. http://www.museovarenna.191.it/

10. Ferry and boat trips from Varenna to other towns on the centre lake make Varenna a perfect home base for visiting the entire lake. When taking the ferry back from a trip to Bellagio you’ll have great views of the town, wedged on a promontory under the mountains. Along with the brightly painted houses, you can admire the parish church and the castle at the top of the hill. As the town sits on the eastern side of the lake, the light is spectacular at sunset and covers everything with a warm golden glow.

Sunset in Varenna

We spent the first three days of our week in Varenna exploring all there was to see in the town and then gave Bellagio, Menaggio, Bellano and Tremezzo (home of Villa Carlotta) a day of their own. Varenna is the perfect place to slow down, to relax and breathe more deeply; a place where the beauty of the scenery takes centre stage.


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Have you been to Varenna? What would you include as a must-see here?
Further reading : Where to Eat in Varenna

Varenna - Lake Como

When I read about the enchanting little town of Varenna, Lake Como on Nerys's interesting blog A Welshie in Italy, it sounded like the perfect place to spend a relaxing holiday. So, my family and I decided to take a trip there for Easter week.

The picturesque town of Varenna

As it’s only a one hour train journey from Milan it’s very easy to reach and it’s just a 15 minute walk from the station to the town centre. Varenna (see map) is in an idyllic spot in the middle of Lake Como and it forms a ‘golden triangle’ with Bellagio and Menaggio. One of the first things that struck me was the deep, rich colours of the beautiful old buildings in shades of yellow ochre and saffron.

Colourful buildings in Varenna

 A shady promenade runs along the shoreline, passing elegant villas and botanical gardens dotted with fine sculptures. There are many charming cobblestone alleyways with steps and archways which lead up to the main piazza. Rising high above the terracotta-tiled rooftops is the steeple of San Giorgio church. Varenna is only a fifteen-minute ferry ride from the more well-known lakeside resort of Bellagio, but its awe-inspiring scenery and peaceful solitude make it the perfect retreat; it has a much more relaxed atmosphere.

Where to Eat (and drink) in Varenna

As the weather was glorious during Easter week, we chose restaurants where you could dine al fresco:

1. Bar il Molo. This was our favourite place to eat in Varenna. On our first night we had a delicious dinner here and returned several nights after because it was so good! It is in a magnificent waterfront location with tables arranged on a terrace overhanging the lake. The authentic cuisine includes: pasta, pizza, salads, bruschette, sweet and savoury piadine and local specialities and the prices are very reasonable. The gnocchi with salmon and cream sauce was delicious. Simone, the owner, is so welcoming and chats with all his customers. The adjacent room with an exhibition of local produce and products is worth visiting.


Bar il Molo

Local produce Varenna

2. On Wednesday (when Bar il Molo was closed) we ate the Nilus Bar next-door. It is in a romantic setting perched over the water's edge. You can hear the waves lapping against the shoreline and watch the swans and ducks as you eat. It has a heavenly lake view and in the evenings you can admire the sailboats and ferries lit up under spectacular sunsets.


The crepe with salmon was scrumptious;
although the food here was simple it tasted so good.



Nilus Bar
(I loved the little red cushions at the back of the seats)

3. Ristorante il Cavallino is a traditional fisherman’s restaurant with the most ample selection of local fresh water fish. It’s in an enchanting position on the lakeside, the outdoor area under a vine-covered pergola, creates a perfect romantic atmosphere for savoring the cuisine of the lake. If you love fish, this is the place to go!

Ristorante Il Cavallino

4. Ristorante La Vista (at Albergo Milano) – superb food with an incredible panorama from its elevated position where you have a view of three branches of the lake in a cosy atmosphere – highly recommended! This is the only restaurant where we had to make reservations ahead of time.

Ristorante La Vista - Albergo Milano

5. Opposite the lake there are little cobbled alleyways between the buildings with steep steps. All of these alleyways lead to the main street and piazza in the town where there is the parish church, more restaurants and two little alimentari, grocery stores – there is no supermarket. Here in the corner of Piazza San Giorgio you will find the Albergo del Sole  a family run restaurant. It serves wonderful pizzas baked in a wood-fired oven. Try their house special pizza - a type of margherita with Parma ham, served with a fried egg on top.

Albergo del Sole
 Piazza San Giorgio

6. There is also a fantastic wine bar, cafeteria and internet café in the main piazza called Al Barilott. The owners Fabrizio and Claudia are warm-hearted and knowledgeable. We used to have our morning cappuccinos here - for only €1.20. Fabrizio says he doesn't charge 'tourist prices.' I overheard one customer remark that they serve the best coffee in town! They also have an extensive wine collection. Have a look at their website to see all that they offer.

Al Barilott

8. Ristorante La Contrada, Hotel Villa Cipressi. This restaurant was halfway along the walkway of Villa Cipressi. It has one of the most picturesque settings of the lake, in the middle of the botanical gardens with a view to both branches of Lake Como.

Ristorante La Contrada
Villa Cipressi

9. Ristorante Olivedo glowed in the evening sunlight like a painting. It is renowned for its typical Lombardy cuisine. Part of a small, elegant liberty-style hotel it is rich in charm and personality and situated directly opposite the ferry landing stage, it looks so inviting...

Ristorante Olivedo

10. For ice-cream, I have to agree that the gelato in the Riva Gelateria (formerly known as La Giazzera) overlooking the little harbour and recommended by Nerys - was excellent!

My favourite - pistacchio e nocciola

How to get to Varenna from Milan:

I received an email from reader Sue asking which of the Milan airports was closer to the city and how to get to Varenna from there. If you have the choice of airports, depending on where you are flying from, Linate would be better as it is only 10k from Milan whereas Malpensa is 46k from the city. You can get the bus right outside the airport to Milan Centrale train station (cost €4). The journey by bus to the train station in Milan takes only about 15 minutes (and departs every 20 minutes). Trains from Milano Centrale to Varenna leave every hour during the day – direction Sondrio-Tirano.

Let me know if you’ve been to Varenna and of any restaurants that shouldn’t be missed on a visit here! There is more to come ... In my next post I'm going to write about Ten of the Main Attractions in Varenna.

The Sacred Mountain of Varese

Are you living in Milan or going on holiday to the Milan area? Want to escape the hustle and bustle of the city for a day? The Sacro Monte di Varese may be the place for you! Located just 55km north of Milan in the heart of the Campo dei Fiori National Park, this is an ideal spot in which to relax, breathe in some fresh air, get a little exercise and admire some spectacular architecture, works of art and stunning scenery. The best day to visit is on a Sunday…read on to find out why…

You don’t have to be religious to appreciate the beauty and art that abounds in Varese. Being there is an adventure for both the body and the spirit. Earlier this month as part of a three week whirlwind tour of Lombardia, Piemonte, Le Marche, Abruzzo and Emilia Romagna, we spent and afternoon in Varese.

Chapel on Sacro Monte di Varese

It is easy enough to walk up the impressive panoramic slopes of Monte Velete along the wide paved winding 2.5km path with a gradual climb of 300 metres. You are rewarded by the beauty of the buildings, the dazzling art and remarkable landscape with spectacular views overlooking Lake Varese and the plains and valleys of the area. The atmosphere is one of peace and serenity. A new surprise awaits you around each turn in the path.

Impressive triumphal arches separate five groups of chapels

You pass by 14 beautiful chapels along the way and although you cannot enter any of them, you can view the amazing interiors through the windows. Each chapel is embellished with richly decorated frescoes, murals and life-size painted terracotta figures theatrically representing a scene from the Mysteries of the Rosary. They were created by some of the finest painters and sculptors of the 1600s, including Mazzucchelli, Prestinari, Nuvolone and Ghiandone.

Interiors of chapels of Sacro Monte di Varese

The three arches, three fountains and all of the chapels were designed by Lombardian architect Giuseppe Bernascone and were built in the style of the Borromean era. Work on the project started in 1604 and was completed 94 years later. The chapels are all different in shape and combine beautifully with the stunning natural surroundings. Walking along the path you will be equally enchanted by the panoramic views of the lakes, the valley, and the Art Nouveau style villas found along this ancient path. In several spots there are open galleries from which you have breathtaking views of the plains of Lombardy, the Po valley, the forests and the Lakes of Varese, Comabbio and Monate.

Open Gallery Sacro Monte di Varese

At the end of the journey, the pretty mountain village of Santa Maria Del Monte welcomes you with inviting restaurants, many with panoramic terraces that overlook the valley. The final chapel (containing The Coronation of Mary) is found inside the Sanctuary of Santa Maria in the village.

On reaching the summit in Vellone, I was excited at the prospect of taking the funicular railway back down, but was disappointed to discover that in August it only operates on a Sunday! (We were there on a Friday). Nevertheless, walking back down wasn’t as difficult as I thought it would be and took half the time too.

The Sacro Monte di Varese is one of 9 World Heritage Sites in the Piedmont and Lombardy area. I first learned about the existence of these Sacri Monti through my friend Dana’s wonderful blog Stresa Sights. To find out more about the other ones, check out her fascinating post The Sacri Monti Near Stresa. So if at any time in the future you are in Milan or any of the nearby areas, don’t miss the chance to explore the beautiful Sacro Monte di Varese. It is definitely worth a visit!

Open all year round.
Entry – Free
For how to get there see:  http://www.sacromonte.it/info_sacromonte.html