Hermitages and Churches in Abruzzo

Last month we took an amazing excursion with Daniele of http://www.abruzzowithyou.com/ to two hermitages of extraordinary beauty, two abbeys and a magnificent hill-town church. Included in his itinerary were:

• Eremo San Spirito a Majella
• Eremo San Bartolomeo in Legio
• Abbey of Santa Maria d’Arabona
• Abbey of San Liberatore a Majella
• Chiesa dei Santi Valentino e Damiano

They are not easy to get to using public transport, so going there with a knowledgeable guide like Daniele is the ideal way to visit them.

Daniele picked us up after lunch outside our rented apartment in Montesilvano. First we came to the Cistercian abbey of Santa Maria d’Arabona in Manoppello.

Rose window in Santa Maria d'Arabona

Lily pond outside Santa Maria d'Arabona

Next we saw the beautiful abbey of San Liberatore a Majella in Serramonacesca. We took the enchanting path behind the abbey along the Alento River past ancient rock tombs, pools and little waterfalls.

San Liberatore in Serramonacesca

Mosaic floor of San Liberatore

Ancient Rock Tombs behind San Liberatore

Chiesa dei Santi Valentino e Damiano

The striking church of Saints Valentino and Damiano with its twin belltowers is in the gorgeous hill town of San Valentino. The church, which was built from stone from the Majella in the second half of the 18th century, was designed by the noted architect Luigi Vanvitelli, who also designed the palace at Caserta near Naples. In front of the church, between the two flights of steps which lead to its door, is the lovely Fountain of Sansone.

Chiesa dei Santi Valentino e Damiano

If you are ever in the little hill-town of San Valentino, I recommend that you taste their homemade ice-cream 'Crema di San Valentino'.

Eremo San Spirito a Majella

The picturesque hermitage of Eremo Santo Spirito is immersed in the fabulous scenery of the Majella Mountains. Unfortunately it was closed when we got there. Had it been open we would have been able to see a simple church, sacristy, monastic complex, chapter hall, library, winter chapel and refectory. Celestine V lived there from 1274 to 1276 before he became Pope. With a car you can drive to within 100 metres of this hermitage.

Eremo San Spirito

Eremo San Bartolomeo in Legio

We had a very enjoyable half hour walk through the Majella National Park on the way to the Hermitage of San Bartolomeo, which was the highlight of our trip. It is in an isolated spot but the walk there is not too difficult and the landscape is absolutely stunning.

Majella National Park

The hermitages rises beneath a rocky spur that covers it completely. The refuge itself can also be reached from the other side by a 'sacred staircase'. The only furnishings inside are the simple altar holding a statue of Saint Bartolomeo and a few wooden chairs along the side walls.

Eremo San Bartolomeo

When we arrived the only other person there was a mysterious, bearded, long haired, barefoot man dressed in orange robes. He pointed to my camera and waved his finger as if to say not to photograph him. He had piercing brown eyes that I will never forget. He had lit some incense inside the small chapel which wafted through the air and contributed to the atmosphere of calm. I kept my sunglasses on inside because my eyes were welling up with tears with the indescribable sense of peace that I felt there. This place has an ancient energy and being there was truly a spiritual experience.

Sacred Stairs Eremo San Bartolomeo

(John took these two photographs with his mobile phone.)

For more information about this hermitage, go to Sammy's blog www.lifeinabruzzo.com where she wrote a superb detailed account of her visit to the Hermitage of San Bartolomeo. Noel from www.abruzzo.com added exquisite close-up photos of the wildflowers and butterflies that he took the time to photograph along the way in his post entitled 'A Sanctuary in the Majella'.

We ended the day with delicious dinner in Osteria Belvedere in Roccamorice. Passing through that town in the evening we could see many of the townspeople out on the streets, chatting and eating together at outdoor cafés and restaurants in a warm, lively atmosphere. It was beautifully lit up and was the kind of town that I'd like to spend more time in, to return to in order to get to know it better...

Last year we took other great tours with our excellent guide Daniele. I wrote about them here:

Journey to San Giovanni in Venere Abbey, Abruzzo
Trabocco Punta Torre, Abruzzo Coast
Cookout in Campo Imperatore
Spellbinding Santo Stefano di Sessanio

The Magic of the Rocca Calascio

Visit to Isola Maggiore on Lake Trasimeno, Umbria

We took the ferry from Passignano and entered the charming medieval village on Isola Maggiore. It is one of three islands on Lake Trasimeno, situated on the Umbrian border close to Tuscany. One of the great things about being there is that you can walk about without having to watch out for traffic. In past centuries fishing was the main occupation but now the main source of income comes from tourism.

Close to the arrival dock, the pretty main street of Via Guglielmi is paved with bricks and has beautiful buildings on both sides dating from the 12th century. The island’s inhabitants (all 35 of them) live in this group of houses.

The Chiesa del Buon Gesù is the third building you come to on the left.

Interior of Chiesa del Buon Gesu'

The adjacent building is the Casa del Capitano del Popolo which is the centre for the documentation of the history of Isola Maggiore.

Opposite the church is the Lace Museum. Surprisingly, “Irish Stitch Lace” was introduced to the island in the early 20th century by Irish nuns. The lace is of such high quality that it was even worn by Queen Margherita of Savoy. The art of lace-making has been handed down from mother to daughter and even today you can see some of the island women at work in front of their doors.

The next church we passed the Romanesque-Gothic church of San Salvatore.

We took the path across the island through groves of centuries-old olive trees and bordered by cypress trees. You can also take a 2km lungolago walk around the perimeter where the pine and oak trees grow. There are hidden treasures all over the island and few tourists about.

At the highest point on the island stands the Chiesa San Michele Arcangelo. Inside are paintings by artists attributable to the schools of Giotto and Cimabue and a Byzantine icon of the Madonna and child.

Interior of San Michele Arcangelo

Guglielmi Castle also known as Castello Isabella was built on the grounds of a Franciscan monastery in the 1880s. Unfortunately we could not see inside because it is in the process of being renovated by the local commune; the works started in October 2005. I look forward to seeing it in the future, restored to its former glory.

We made our way to the rock of St Francis where the saint is said to have landed. Nearby is the small Chapel of San Francesco which was built around a tiny cave where St Francis slept when he stayed here during his Lenten fast in 1211. I was enthralled by the views across the lake from here and captivated by the island's peace and tranquility. Isola Maggiore has a charm that comes from the fact that it is so rich in architectural and artistic relics of a splendid past, set in a beautiful, natural unspoiled setting.

When early evening arrived we strolled back down towards the dock. What a surprise we had when we saw these harpists sitting in a row on the water's edge...

and beside them was...

…this pianist playing a grand piano! How did they manage to get it there I wonder? Evening sun rays streamed through gaps in the clouds like gateways to Heaven. The musicians were starting to perform a free two-hour performance specially created by Vincenzo Zitello for the annual ‘Music for Sunset’ series of concerts.

We chose a lovely family-run restaurant nearby called Ristorante L’Oso on the lakeside so we could have the pleasure of listening to the soothing music in the background as we ate. The restaurant had many recipes on the menu that included fish from the lake (perch, carp, pike, mullet and sea bass) as well as traditional Italian cuisine. We were also fortunate to witness a spectacular sunset before taking the ferry back. It was a magical, romantic setting and a perfect ending to an unforgettable day…

Visit to The Valley of The Temples - Sicily

On a sunny spring day in March we travelled from Catania to the Valle dei Templi in Agrigento. There were no trains running in the morning so we had to go by bus. At first I was a little apprehensive about taking such a long three hour journey in what turned out to be a minibus! Despite my reservations it was quite comfortable, as we could open the windows for fresh air and there was a ten minute rest stop half way. The inland undulating landscape along the way was surprisingly green.

The Valley of the Temples is one of the most important archeological areas in Sicily and a Unesco World Heritage site - the ruins of the ancient city of Akragas. These are the oldest Greek ruins outside of Greece and I was so excited about seeing them. Once we got to the bus parking lot beside the train station in Agrigento we checked into the conveniently located Hotel Amici. From there it was just 20 minutes by local bus to the archeological site. I had read that the most spectacular temples were in the eastern zone so that is where we started our exploration. (The western zone is just across the road.) We got a guidebook at the ticket office to help explain things; there were also audio guides available. After paying for our tickets - €10 which included entrance to the Archeological Museum - we took a path that lead to the ruins of the Temple of Juno. Built between 470 and 450 BC it occupies the highest and most panoramic position on a hill.

The Temple of Juno

As we continued along the Via Sacra we saw unusual holes in the stretch of city walls that run alongside. These were half moon shaped tombs dating back to Byzantine times called Arcosolium graves.

Arcosolium graves

Next we came to the Villa Hardcastle. It used to be the Agrigento home of the English Navy captain Sir Alexander Hardcastle. He loved this valley and used up all of his personal inheritance in an attempt to bring it back to life. Thanks to his financial contribution and the enthusiasm shared with archaeologist Pirro Marconi, he was responsible for the reconstruction of eight columns from the Temple of Hercules during the years 1924-31. His house is now used as a multi-media museum and there is an elegant café nearby - the 'Caffetteria agli Arcosoli'.

Opposite the Villa Hardcastle lies the necropolis, crypts that were created out of ancient Greek cisterns, where numerous burial chambers were dug out during the Early Christian period.

Early Christian Necropolis

About 500 metres further on we came to the highlight of the area - the stunning Doric Temple of Concord - one of the best-preserved Greek temples in existence.

It was certainly a magnificent and imposing sight, perched on a ridge and built in order to be seen by sailors and troops arriving by sea. It is remarkable that it has survived almost entirely intact since its construction in 430BC. Alongside it that day was a contemporary sculpture, a temporary display by the Polish sculptor Igor Mitoraj. The bronze 'Fallen Angel' figure contrasted starkly with the stone of the ancient monument.

On we walked, past an 800 year old olive tree and an olive grove until we reached the Temple of Hercules, the oldest of the temples, dating from the end of 6BC. In the evening the temples take on a lovely golden hue. From this point you have a superb vista of Agrigento and towards the coast.

The Temple of Hercules

 We spent about 3 hours here, soaking up the impressive views and the atmosphere. The place is huge; to see all of it you would really need a full day. Spring was a magical time to visit with a profusion of yellow and purple wildflowers in bloom and almond trees in blossom. Spread out over the valley and on a ridge resting between the city and the sea, you can feel what it must have been like here thousands of years ago.



The site is open every day, all year round 8.30am – 7pm. In July and August the closing time is 10pm. After sunset it is illuminated and I can imagine that it would look even more breathtaking.

Ceramics in Appignano - Le Marche

The outside of the ‘Ceramiche Fratelli Testa’ pottery workshop in Appignano di Macerata is covered in a striking kaleidoscope of colourful tiles inviting you to enter. Inside, the doors, walls and ceiling are decorated with colourful pieces of pottery and hundreds of mosaics.


Ceramiche Fratelli Testa, Appignano di Macerata



Detail of exterior

When we visited we were able to watch the potters at work and to view the process from beginning to end was fascinating. We could see the vessels take shape and become beautiful works of art, smooth, glazed and painted. The creator of all this magic is Giuseppe Testa, the last of the Testa potter brothers (Fratelli Testa) in Appignano di Macerata.

In 1850 his grandfather (also named Giuseppe) set up the pottery workshop and since then the family of skilled craftsmen, his father Giacinto and his brother Francesco have all been potters.

Giuseppe started creating pottery when he was just eight years old. His work requires great skill but he does it with a passion. While he works there he makes all his customers feel at ease in his cozy studio and often in the evenings, the older Appignanesi meet here to chat.

Postcard of Borgo Santa Croce from 1860
(you can see the pottery lined up on the left)

He is still creating ceramics at the age of 74 and teaches in the local school of ceramics passing on his skills to the next generation of potters, helping to preserve the history, culture and traditions of Appignano. You can buy his wonderful creations in the shop.

Although his son Mauro shares his love of ceramics he has chosen a different career, as an architect. It was Mauro who decorated the interior walls and ceiling of the ceramics shop. The pottery is mostly for everyday use, rustic earthenware dishes, terracotta crockery, bowls, vases, jugs and pitchers.The richness of this ancient craft continues to live on every day in the dazzling shop front and each piece of pottery retains a part of this wonderful tradition.

I treasure this pestle and mortar made by Giuseppe Testa

Symbol of the Bottega dei Fratelli Testa

Thanks to our friend Stefano Serrani  for much of this information about his dear friend Giuseppe Testa. Thanks also to Bob of the beautiful Casal dei Fichi apartments near Fermo for more updated information. You can visit the ceramics store here:

Ceramiche Fratelli Testa

Borgo Santa Croce, 33

62010 Appignano di Macerata (MC)

Tel.: (+39) 073357484

Further reading: The Town of Appignano di Macerata

Journey to San Giovanni in Venere Abbey, Abruzzo

On the day that we visited Trabocco Punta Torre with Daniele he also drove us to the Punta Aderci Nature Reserve. It is a stunningly beautiful area of great botanical and geological interest and is an ideal spot for birdwatchers, swimmers and sunbathers. From this beach dolphins can sometimes be seen in the distance.

We also stopped in San Vito Chietino and walked along the gravel path past the old train station.

Ahead of us we could see the Trabocco D’Annunzio (also called Trabocco Turchino) and the Eremo D’Annunzio concealed amongst the cliffs and orange trees. The steep cliffs alternate with small sandy coves. The famous poet and writer Gabriele D’Annunzio spent two months of the summer of 1889 here with Barbara Fraternali Leoni. The artist Francesco Paolo Michetti recommended this place to him due to the unspoilt beauty of the landscape. During his time here he was inspired to write ‘Il Trionfo della Morte’ (Death’s Triumph), in which he describes some of the places surrounding the hermitage. He wrote:

“The chain of promontories and crescent-shaped gulfs rendered an image of a succession of offerings, with each inlet holding a treasure.”

On the public sandy beach at Punta Penna we went for a swim. We had packed our swim costumes and towels with us and Daniele also brought along his colourful kite which our daughter Amy had fun flying; she even held on to it when she was in the water. You need to bring your own sun umbrella as there is no natural shade. I prefer beaches like this rather than the ones that have rows and rows of tightly packed sun loungers and parasols.

On the way back towards Pescara he drove us to the Abbey of San Giovanni in Venere in Fossacesia, one of the largest Benedictine monasteries in the region. The first thing we did there was admire the view of the Sangro River Valley in front of the abbey which stretches out over orchards, olive groves and pine woods to the sea. (See video below).

From the other side of the abbey we admired a line of ‘trabocchi’ - old fishing machines. In this picture you can just about make out four of them in a row along the coast. The light was fading at this time of the evening. This area is considered one of the most beautiful of the entire Trabocco coastline.

The abbey sits on a hill dominating the Adriatic coastline. At dusk it is illuminated and is a wondrous sight from all around.

The main portal (Portale della Luna – Moon Portal) is in stone and marble and is surmounted by a vaulted arch which encloses a decorative half moon. Here images of Jesus, the Blessed Mother and John the Baptist are sculpted.

On the sides of the portal are two pilasters and columns made with different coloured marble. You can see images of the story of the Annunciation and the Visitation as well as scenes of John the Baptist, Daniel in the lion’s den and Gabriel announcing John’s birth to his father. The scene on the bottom left is of two peacocks drinking from a vase.

The interior is divided into three naves divided by twelve pillars with gothic arches and it has a high roof of wooden beams. Real treasure is to be found down in the crypt - marble pillars dating back to Roman times and frescoes dating back to the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. The frescoes were restored in October 2009. In the central fresco Christ is in the middle with saints Benedict and John the Baptist on either side. On the right wall is a panel with the Virgin and Child between the Archangel Michael and St Nicholas of Bari.

We ended the day with dinner in the café which is at the side of the abbey amid trees and flowers. They serve delicious pizza and gelato artigianale (home made ice-cream). You can see the Portale delle Donne – (women’s portal) in the background.

Here is a very short video showing the view from the abbey. It makes me what to be back there again...


Daniele, our guide, has several interesting itineraries for day trips in Abruzzo. See his website  for more details: http://www.abruzzowithyou.com/